...more pics of non-bose sub void
#61
Re: Re: after thinking over....
Originally posted by nizl
I would go with either the JL 10W6v2 or the Illusion Audio ND-10.
I just heard the 10W6v2 again today and it sounded really good, even in a tiny box. Mounting depth is 6.9". I think it would be a really good fit.
The other alternative, the ND-10, I have not heard personally. But everyone on CAF raves about it, and it's super-shallow and lightweight.
Both are around $300. Let us know what you decide!
I would go with either the JL 10W6v2 or the Illusion Audio ND-10.
I just heard the 10W6v2 again today and it sounded really good, even in a tiny box. Mounting depth is 6.9". I think it would be a really good fit.
The other alternative, the ND-10, I have not heard personally. But everyone on CAF raves about it, and it's super-shallow and lightweight.
Both are around $300. Let us know what you decide!
I will be going to HomeDepot to pick up the foam spray, and maybe find some kind of sound deadening mat. Not sure if I am going to either build a MDF box or just seal up the compartment. I am leaning toward the MDF box, after the mats are layed in.
#62
Originally posted by aggie300zx
Thanks Jeffw! Would you use the Great Stuff to fill the whole void besides the space needed for the sub. How would you then define the enclosure for the sub?
Thanks Jeffw! Would you use the Great Stuff to fill the whole void besides the space needed for the sub. How would you then define the enclosure for the sub?
I do know that the stuff will drip. You might want to make cardboard baffles to contain the stuff and keep it for dripping from the sides/ceiling. Leave room for it to expand or it will colapse your baffles. You might want to buy an extra can and practice with a box or something. I'm thinking a large shoe box suspended within the space might allow you to make a nicely shaped space of foam around the boxes exterior.
Also, this stuff is nasty. You don't want to get it on your seat or floor of the car. I'd recommend you unbolt the whole driver's side seat. Cover the floor with a drop cloth and tape plastic around the edges of the space. Also, I HIGHLY recommend that you buy some latex work gloves. Otherwise, you'll be waiting for a new layer of skin to grow to get that stuff off.
--
Jeff
#65
Originally posted by rpgonzalez
ya. no way that stuff drips. Its like TENACIOUS stuff. Dont get it on your hands, like they say.
ya. no way that stuff drips. Its like TENACIOUS stuff. Dont get it on your hands, like they say.
--
Jeff
#66
I am planning to do a thin coat aaaaalllll around, to solve the problem of drip and make a BIG F***in mess. Fortunately, if I ever sell, there is no reason for the buyer to look in there. Itll just be funny in 2035 when its at the junk yard, some person will look in there and, "WTF was the owner thinking. What a mess...what a dumasss"
#67
Originally Posted by Subw00er
Is the bose sub that goes in there a free-air, or is it in a box?
i'lll let everyone know how it goes.
#70
I did an install in my 2003. Don't have any pix right now. I'll get a hold of a digital camera this weekend and post pix Monday. I used the driver's side compartment to mount 2 punch amps(about a 18inch long/each), a 1 farad cap, pwr distribution block, relay to turn everything on, and 2 cooling fans.
Not a very easy job. The best way to work back there (if you're gonna use the space for amps) is to pull the driver's seat out and just sit on the floor board and work.
Bad news is, you gotta take that entire back panel off first. It is one long peice, stretching from the passenger side glove box to the driver's side. B4 you can remove this, you gotta pull the side panels off(the panels the are around the seat belt and small rear window area. Use a flashlight and long flathead screw driver. Everything is clipped on with little blue clips(they break easy). Once the plastic panels are off, there is a metal plate that has an eight inch hole in it, that covers the compartment. It is held on by 10mm screws...Once inside, you can remove the 2 metal tabs that hang from the ceiling of the compartment..This will free up more room. I used a pair of vice gripes, and just kept bending them back and forth until they snapped.
The compartment has an odd shape. Had to build brackets out of MDF: 2 shelves and 2 side walls.. You can screw those right into the frame. Ventilation is very poor in there. Originally, my sub amp kept cutting out until I installed 2 cooling fans. One fan can be mounted inside the compartment while you can mount the other behind the factory Bose cover panel. It will draw air from the cabin and force it inside the compartment.
From what serveral shops have told me, only a fiberglass box can be fabricated to fit a 10 inch sub back there. Very expensive!!
-----
Custom sealed box in the spare tire well works good. 1.25 cu ft of air space, perfect! I made the box so that it was exactly level with the carpet in the floor board of the hatch. Cut a 12 inch hole thru my factory Z mat and mounted the sub thru the carpet onto the box. Gotta be precise on the depth of the sub.
By the way, gotta Dyno matt the entire trunk. I used a combination of Dyno mat and that spray in bed liner junk from the autoparts store. Works good on the inside of the door panels too! It'll mask almost all of the rattle from the rear end.
Not a very easy job. The best way to work back there (if you're gonna use the space for amps) is to pull the driver's seat out and just sit on the floor board and work.
Bad news is, you gotta take that entire back panel off first. It is one long peice, stretching from the passenger side glove box to the driver's side. B4 you can remove this, you gotta pull the side panels off(the panels the are around the seat belt and small rear window area. Use a flashlight and long flathead screw driver. Everything is clipped on with little blue clips(they break easy). Once the plastic panels are off, there is a metal plate that has an eight inch hole in it, that covers the compartment. It is held on by 10mm screws...Once inside, you can remove the 2 metal tabs that hang from the ceiling of the compartment..This will free up more room. I used a pair of vice gripes, and just kept bending them back and forth until they snapped.
The compartment has an odd shape. Had to build brackets out of MDF: 2 shelves and 2 side walls.. You can screw those right into the frame. Ventilation is very poor in there. Originally, my sub amp kept cutting out until I installed 2 cooling fans. One fan can be mounted inside the compartment while you can mount the other behind the factory Bose cover panel. It will draw air from the cabin and force it inside the compartment.
From what serveral shops have told me, only a fiberglass box can be fabricated to fit a 10 inch sub back there. Very expensive!!
-----
Custom sealed box in the spare tire well works good. 1.25 cu ft of air space, perfect! I made the box so that it was exactly level with the carpet in the floor board of the hatch. Cut a 12 inch hole thru my factory Z mat and mounted the sub thru the carpet onto the box. Gotta be precise on the depth of the sub.
By the way, gotta Dyno matt the entire trunk. I used a combination of Dyno mat and that spray in bed liner junk from the autoparts store. Works good on the inside of the door panels too! It'll mask almost all of the rattle from the rear end.
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