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About to take a 12 Gauge to this Amp/Sub - Help!

Old Jun 9, 2010 | 10:25 PM
  #1  
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Default About to take a 12 Gauge to this Amp/Sub - Help!

im about to give up on this whole sub/amp thing and just have an installer do it, I just dont want to have to fork up more money than I already have... its reaaaaaaally frustrating. Anyway, I dont know much about subs/amps... but basically my subs will hit, but not enough, and they will cut off after not even turning them up 20%, the amp/sub links are below...

Im being told this combo should be fine, the subs are bridged, wiring and everything was done by a buddy of mine (whos installed subs for me before, and says because the amp is crap is why its not working) but everyone says it should.... does anyone have any say on this? any amp diagrams install how to's? anything? im about to take a 12 gauge to this amp and sub...

if you need more info let me know... thank you

amp:

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...26tbs%3Disch:1

subs (2 of them):

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...26tbs%3Disch:1

and bare with me... im not too familiar with OMS's, watts, etc etc language... lol
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 03:15 AM
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How far do you have your gain turned up on the amp? Are you using the crossover that is built into the amp? If so what is it set at? Are you using RCA's or did you connect it via your rear speaker wires? Did you upgrade your ground wire when you upgraded your power wire?
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 05:29 AM
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sorry i forgot those things....

but yea, the gain is not even set at full capacity when itll just cut off. I have a crossover, but i dont plan on using it because its pretty crap and came with my setup... and the RCA's are 1 connected to the front, the other the rear (not too sure how thats supposed to go... are the both supposed to be connected in the rears?) and ive been thinking that its possibly my ground... ill have to go and check

thanks for the help man, i was about to take that 12 gauge to this setup lol
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 05:32 AM
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Wait... if you're going run 12 gauge wire, wtf gauge are you running now?
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 06:45 AM
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lol nah man, a "12 gauge" shotgun
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 06:47 AM
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basically... i guess to answer all my questions... will this sub and amp combo work? and give good bass? and why does the amp keep cutting out... wiring maybe wrong? idk but ill play with it later...

please if anyone has any input please add. thanks!
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 06:48 AM
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fail on my part

Personally I'd invest in more high quality stuff. I find in the end you either do it right the first time or you'll end up doing it eventually for more money.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 06:52 AM
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You sub link takes me to a bunch of different subs, but I can still tell you the problem.

You have a 600W amp and you've got two subs (doesn't matter which ones) because it's the same problem with all of them. You don't have nearly enough RMS to push one sub, let alone 2 subs, so you are cutting out because the subs are becoming saturated. That means they can absorb the power you put in them and not even have to move a little. If you want to use that amp, you need to find a single subwoofer that makes the amp:

@ RMS power: 2x50Watts+1x120Watts@4Ohms (this is the bridged setup and the maximum power out of the amp) and it means that you've got maybe 120W RMS for your subwoofers, so you'll need a sub that has a peak RMS of 150W at 4Ohms (that way you can push the speaker to the max, but not blow it).

For those of you that want the quick story, this guy bought an amp for components and he's trying to push heavy subs.

If you want to keep the subs, you'll need to make sure they run at 4Ohms at you'll need a single amp for each sub.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 07:33 AM
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thanks guys for the replies, i think i got my answer

ill try rewiring all the wiring, and if that doesnt work, ill definally take this nice beautiful slug, place it in my gorgeous 12 gauge and let er' rip.

Thanks again
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 08:27 AM
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OK, let me take a crack at the problem.......

You said your subs are bridged. Your link leads me to believe you are using two Jack Hammer single 4ohm voice coil subs. If they are bridged, you are lowering the impedance to 2ohms which that Sony amp can NOT handle when bridged. Because of this lower impedance, the amp is going into protect mode and cutting out.

Your amp can put out (safely):
2 channels of 120 watts @ 4ohms each

Your subs are each rated to handle:
200 watts rms

On paper this combo will work. Here is what I would do if I were you...........
If the Sony amp has a LPF (low pass filter) turn it on and set it to about 80Hz to start with for both front and rear channels. Set your gains to about 1/2 way (depending on your source this may/may not be a good starting point).
Wire one sub to the front channel of your amp following diagram for bridging the amp, and the other to the rear channel of your amp following diagram for bridging the amp. Each sub (on paper) will be getting about 120 watts rms IF TUNED CORRECTLY and depending on the source unit. What is your source btw?

Last edited by StreetOC192; Jun 10, 2010 at 08:29 AM.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 09:29 AM
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Sounds like an impedence problem to me just as StreetOC192 mentioned. Your amp cannot handle the impedence load of the woofers, not to be mistaken with the power handling of the subwoofers. If you had the right impedence it would work no problem.
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Old Jun 10, 2010 | 01:39 PM
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thanks for that info guys, im gonna check it out when i get home

Last edited by GoHardOrGoHome; Jun 12, 2010 at 06:14 AM.
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 06:55 AM
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ok, 2 more questions:

1.) I noticed when he hooked it up, (again this kit came WITH the subs when i bought them) my ground is an 8 gauge (or smaller?) wire. I have about a foot extra of 4 gauge wire, could that be the issue? Maybe? If so ill just replace the 8 with 4 and do that...


2.) When he connected it all, I noticed the fuse block is connected at the rear (about 6 inches from the amp), isnt it supposed to be up front? Could that be an issue? If so ill just replace it up front too...

Just looking for alternatives, because if these 2 things dont have anything to do with it i wont bother... im off early today, im going to look at it first thing, still havent had time to look at it yet. lol

thanks for all the help guys btw
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by GoHardOrGoHome
ok, 2 more questions:

1.) I noticed when he hooked it up, (again this kit came WITH the subs when i bought them) my ground is an 8 gauge (or smaller?) wire. I have about a foot extra of 4 gauge wire, could that be the issue? Maybe? If so ill just replace the 8 with 4 and do that...


2.) When he connected it all, I noticed the fuse block is connected at the rear (about 6 inches from the amp), isnt it supposed to be up front? Could that be an issue? If so ill just replace it up front too...
You should have it grounded with 4AWG wire, but even if it is grounded with 8AWG it should still work. Since you have it extra, use the 4. And yes, it sounds like he routed the power cable in reverse. A fuse should be at the other end (within 18 inches of the battery, but the shorter the better). The fuse on the power line is to protect the power wire, not your equipment. If it's too far away from the battery and you push too much power through it (especially with low gauge wire), you can melt the shielding and put your Z up in flames.
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 12:26 PM
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HOLY ****!!! ok im definally going to reroute everything! i dont want my Z in flames! lol

wow... ok, well ive done some research, im going to do a test on it since i have this whole weekend off... ill let you guys know how it goes, or if i need any more help. i appreciate everyhting so far
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Old Jun 12, 2010 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by GoHardOrGoHome
HOLY ****!!! ok im definally going to reroute everything! i dont want my Z in flames! lol

wow... ok, well ive done some research, im going to do a test on it since i have this whole weekend off... ill let you guys know how it goes, or if i need any more help. i appreciate everyhting so far
That's in an extreme circumstance... but could technically happen which is the reason for having the fuse... But if it's easier you could just splice in to the line @ the battery and add a fuse there if you already have it all routed.
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