"actual music", yeeesss ..mm hmm.. what is actual music

you are aware that you can ALWAYS just LOWER THE BASS, right? so in reality its better to have more (bc you can lower it) than to have a little and CANT put it up



you are right on it!!! but he doesnt have a cheap 10'' in his z, he has one of the best in the market, you know yourself that 1 10w7 can outperform many 12's.... that little monster can bump...

but its still not enough for some ppl (me)

 

a 15" ported at 35 hertz with a maxximus bridged at 2 ohm 10k watts was not enough

paclc1 = up or down

never enough

 

wtf's that stand for

...............

hell yeah travis, you know exactly what im talking about...lol... ..... **** your one of the reasons im starting to go spl

still competing bro, any new #'s ?

 

Nice stereo, horrible tails.

 

15" digital design driver
with a hifonics maxximus bridged at 2 ohm 10,000 watts
and a paclc1 is a level control off the rca that reduces or increases signal to the amps so you can adjust accordingly

yes still doing spl

but I use a sundown 2000 now on a 15" dd

the hifonics drew to much current and i can't house enough battery bank to feed it

 

i put 2 JL 10W7s in mine in a sealed box, a 10farad stinget cap bank, 1 gauge wire and an Alpine 1000.1... and theres no way my alternator can handle full volume for more than like 2 minutes.. and its so percussive even at low volumes it immediately drops my rearview mirror down. like instantly haha.. sucks. guess ill ahve to glue the bend joint so it wont move anymore.

 

the wire running from your alt to your + terminal under hood battery remove it and replace it with a 0 awg run

install a dual input battery terminal on your - battery terminal on your under hood battery that accepts 2 each 0 awg out , run 1 each 1 awg run along side your 1 awg power run and use that as the ground to your bass amp - ground input so that your + & - power and ground runs are both 1 awg both the same length, both running from front battery to your bass amps - & + inputs

next take the 2nd unused - battery terminal hole you have open and run a 0 awg run from there to your cars frame scrape paint off fasten tight

this should help your voltage drops a lot

if you can afford a new battery remove factory battery and replace with a stinger sp 1000

lose the capacitor

as for your rearview mirror some stick some dont
i never had a problem with my rearview and my front and back windshield wipers jump at least 1" off my glass on full tilt but i never had rearview mirror issues just lucky i guess

 

is that stinger battery really good, or just bc u sell them ...lol...

danm right your lucky bro, my rear view mirrow is LONG GONE... lol.. **** cracked on the part that connects to the windsheild

>>> any new #'s travis?

 

stinger
powermaster
shuriken
deka intimidator
kintec

all good

set a battery budget $
then see how much l x h x w can be devoted
then shop the above brands in your budget that fit the footprint you need

and you really can't go wrong with any of the above mentioned

powermaster is my favorite
stinger i buy direct so that is why i use it

yes i sell them but i am not a car audio pusher people know what is up they can ask i tend not to push items just cause i buy direct

like i said powermaster is my favorite choice and i do not buy direct in that


really am kinda stuck 147-148.5 sealed up TL
and 158-159 outlaw ac fanning the driver door
very hot and humid down here in Florida
summer time scores are lower
winter time scores are higher
batteries and voltage is higher when it is colder outside

 

travis, you sir are a gangster ...

man i have to get a bigger amp... ...

op sorry for derail, gl

 

original poster

congrats on your new car and new sound system

enjoy

you did put some nice stuff in there

i am sure it sounds very nice

sorry for not sticking with your threads direction

SQBH 2500 watts is a really plenty of power for 350z no need to go bigger really

 

more info on that box please! i'm trying to figure out how to get a ported box in my z w/o taking over the entire trunk. currently have zenclosures 2x10 with JL W3 but I can't imagine how to figure in a port.

 

you probably will have to build a new enclosure

unless you wanna use aeroports in your zen and keep them short which will be very high tuning and very mid bass sounding

killing your low end

 

ahhh, icic- do you know of any box designs that would fit under the struts and give me good ported bass? trying to get the most use out of my JL's but it seems i can't without sacrificing my trunk space.

 

i would suggest either keeping what you have and enjoy your trunk space

or sacrifice the trunk and build a ported enclosure

which is more important to you

me i have no trunk at all

car is a dedicated spl db drag car


if you decide to build a box or have one bilt

what music do you like
what is your budget
what existing equipment is a must keep & what equipment might you want to get

 

i had a 10w7 sealed to company specs powered by a 500/1...weak as ****...had to use bass boost and set gains high.

same 10w7 in a custom ported enclosure powered by 500/1 OMFG sounds like i had 3 of them in there, and the bass had so much more depth on all levels, SQ did not suffer at ALL IMO. no bass boost needed nor did i need to set gains high.

then went to a ported 12" RE AUDIO XXX '05 model powered by like a 1600 watt hifonics amp..probably more like 1300 or 1400..**** slammed like no other but i liked the "SQL" of the 10W7 more. bass was a lot more accurate and tight sounding.

just my .02 enclosure and type of sub makes a big difference.

 

does anyone make a ported under strut box for our z's?