Components on 4 channel amp
10-01-2010, 10:53 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Components on 4 channel amp
This weekend I'm going to strip my interior and clean up some wiring, I have a question before I re-run a few leads:
I'm going to be running my components on a JBL GTO 4 channel that is rated @ around 105w RMS @ 4Ohms and about 150w RMS @ 2ohms per channel.
(http://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTO7...ures_and_specs)
Both sets of components are 4 ohms rated at 100w RMS. (Infinity Kappa 6.1 Perfects in the stock location & Rockford T1652-S in the kicks for mid-bass)
If I wired each set in parallel wouldn't that give me a 2ohm load per channel or would it still be 1 ohm since there are 4 speakers total?
Should I have any trouble doing this or would it be best just to run them @ 4ohms directly to the amp? Any other advice? Thanks guys...
I'm going to be running my components on a JBL GTO 4 channel that is rated @ around 105w RMS @ 4Ohms and about 150w RMS @ 2ohms per channel.
(http://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTO7...ures_and_specs)
Both sets of components are 4 ohms rated at 100w RMS. (Infinity Kappa 6.1 Perfects in the stock location & Rockford T1652-S in the kicks for mid-bass)
If I wired each set in parallel wouldn't that give me a 2ohm load per channel or would it still be 1 ohm since there are 4 speakers total?
Should I have any trouble doing this or would it be best just to run them @ 4ohms directly to the amp? Any other advice? Thanks guys...
Last edited by revvenue; 10-01-2010 at 10:55 AM.
10-01-2010, 11:45 AM
#3
350Z-holic
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Scottsdale/coyote drophouse
Posts: 8,241
Received 411 Likes
on
235 Posts
As a MECP cert installer.. I must say that running 2 different speakers off the same channels is a poor idea. Yes, running the two would be 2 ohm if you paralleled 2 speakers together on ea channel.
A few questions..
Do you already own the speakers you mentioned?
DO you already own the kickpanels?
If you are just in planning phase.. Id ditch the midbass idea and just get some damn good speakers.
I run Alpine Imprint that has been fully time and phase corrected and use ONE set of Boston Acoustic PRO 60Ses in a Wicked CAS door and oem tweeter loc.
Im very aware of what proper staging should sound like as well...
I say all this because the Z is very small.. the path lengths are all crazy as hell, and kicks will help a little, but you can get insane midbass and tightness out of a simple set up by investing more money in the speakers and electronics themselves than piecing together more stuff that doesnt match.
BUT............... if you DO already own all that stuff.. try to track down a proper 3 way passive x over.. thats helps balance the impedance back to 4ohms when the frequency band is split across three ways.
SO i drank my rockstar way too fast.. prob gave you way more answer than was even asked.. but again, if you do just what you said, the answer is that it will only be approx 2 ohm per ch, not 1 ohm.
btw, if anyone has stereo or electrical and acoustic questions.. im always down for the questions. Everyone has theories, but i was in that biz a long long time.
: )
A few questions..
Do you already own the speakers you mentioned?
DO you already own the kickpanels?
If you are just in planning phase.. Id ditch the midbass idea and just get some damn good speakers.
I run Alpine Imprint that has been fully time and phase corrected and use ONE set of Boston Acoustic PRO 60Ses in a Wicked CAS door and oem tweeter loc.
Im very aware of what proper staging should sound like as well...
I say all this because the Z is very small.. the path lengths are all crazy as hell, and kicks will help a little, but you can get insane midbass and tightness out of a simple set up by investing more money in the speakers and electronics themselves than piecing together more stuff that doesnt match.
BUT............... if you DO already own all that stuff.. try to track down a proper 3 way passive x over.. thats helps balance the impedance back to 4ohms when the frequency band is split across three ways.
SO i drank my rockstar way too fast.. prob gave you way more answer than was even asked.. but again, if you do just what you said, the answer is that it will only be approx 2 ohm per ch, not 1 ohm.
btw, if anyone has stereo or electrical and acoustic questions.. im always down for the questions. Everyone has theories, but i was in that biz a long long time.
: )
10-01-2010, 03:39 PM
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: ny
Posts: 1,582
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^^According to the op I think a 3 way passive is gonna be very difficult. With a properly dynamatted and sealed door you can get some pretty impressive midbass.
Last edited by duro78; 10-01-2010 at 03:43 PM.
10-01-2010, 05:02 PM
#5
who did your kicks?
is your car auto or stick?
is the kick housing a 6.5"?
is it on axis or off axis?
why did the fabricator not house the tweet in the kick?
i kinda like in an automatic z doing the kicks on axis with a 6.5 " or 7" and tweet all housed in the kick and heavily deadend and forgetting the rear fill and bridging your 4 channel on each kick @ 4 ohm
or doing in a stick z doing the 6.5 or 7" in the kick off axis deadend and glassing the tweets at the bass of the a pillar on axis and bridging the amp on each pair at 4 ohm still ditching the rear fill
if your kicks do house a 6.5 & tweet i would forget the stock location for mid and tweet lose the rear fill and bridge the amp on each kick at 4 ohm and use deadner on the kicks pick the set of 6.5" components you like better in the kick
use it like this and see if you like
is your car auto or stick?
is the kick housing a 6.5"?
is it on axis or off axis?
why did the fabricator not house the tweet in the kick?
i kinda like in an automatic z doing the kicks on axis with a 6.5 " or 7" and tweet all housed in the kick and heavily deadend and forgetting the rear fill and bridging your 4 channel on each kick @ 4 ohm
or doing in a stick z doing the 6.5 or 7" in the kick off axis deadend and glassing the tweets at the bass of the a pillar on axis and bridging the amp on each pair at 4 ohm still ditching the rear fill
if your kicks do house a 6.5 & tweet i would forget the stock location for mid and tweet lose the rear fill and bridge the amp on each kick at 4 ohm and use deadner on the kicks pick the set of 6.5" components you like better in the kick
use it like this and see if you like
Last edited by 350zspl; 10-01-2010 at 05:08 PM.
10-01-2010, 09:33 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for taking the time to answer my question guys.
To answer some of your responses:
My Infinity's are in the stock sail panel and door from the initial install. I wasn't exactly pleased with the bass response from the door without a pod on the door itself.
I got a steal on the Rockfords a while back and got the itch to try the sound out in kickpanels and the A-Pillar. Since I'm a newb I decided to leave the Infinity's in the stock location in the interim so I could test and build my pods and still have sound in my car on my commute.
So to answer your questions yes I have the equipment already.
I'm planning on leaving the back components off from reading the advice here and listening to them myself.
The Rockford components have some of the hardest hitting bass I've heard in the enclosures I've made from a set of 6.5", so I figured I could just run them at a little bit lower freq than the Infinity's I have in the door already, solving the door rattle issue without more fabrication. Almost like a 3-way system I guess.
I have the A-Pillars and kicks sounding great when I was in there fiberglassing but I didn't have both sets of components on at the time. Is it going to sound like crap to have 2 sets up front, if so I will just keep the Infinity's off and remove them later.
And thanks again for any suggestions. Here is the list of equipment I have which I will have time to re-wire this weekend. I appreciate your help... and will definitely take your advice in to consideration:
Pioneer p4200dvd with 3 pre-outs (front, rear, sub)
Rockford T1000-1bd on a Rockford P3 10" in a Zenclosure
JBL GTO II75.4 4 channel
Rockford T1652-S components in the kicks and a-pillar I fabricated
Infinity Kappa 6.1 Perfect components in the stock location
Stock in the rear which I'm not running
Anyway I appreciate your help to get the best sound out of what I have. I'm obviously not a pro at this but I'm really enjoying working on it. I'm open to any and all re-configurations and have the weekend ahead of me to finish it off. Not really trying to spend any more money right now, so I pretty well need to make due right now, as far as my audio system goes.
To answer some of your responses:
My Infinity's are in the stock sail panel and door from the initial install. I wasn't exactly pleased with the bass response from the door without a pod on the door itself.
I got a steal on the Rockfords a while back and got the itch to try the sound out in kickpanels and the A-Pillar. Since I'm a newb I decided to leave the Infinity's in the stock location in the interim so I could test and build my pods and still have sound in my car on my commute.
So to answer your questions yes I have the equipment already.
I'm planning on leaving the back components off from reading the advice here and listening to them myself.
The Rockford components have some of the hardest hitting bass I've heard in the enclosures I've made from a set of 6.5", so I figured I could just run them at a little bit lower freq than the Infinity's I have in the door already, solving the door rattle issue without more fabrication. Almost like a 3-way system I guess.
I have the A-Pillars and kicks sounding great when I was in there fiberglassing but I didn't have both sets of components on at the time. Is it going to sound like crap to have 2 sets up front, if so I will just keep the Infinity's off and remove them later.
And thanks again for any suggestions. Here is the list of equipment I have which I will have time to re-wire this weekend. I appreciate your help... and will definitely take your advice in to consideration:
Pioneer p4200dvd with 3 pre-outs (front, rear, sub)
Rockford T1000-1bd on a Rockford P3 10" in a Zenclosure
JBL GTO II75.4 4 channel
Rockford T1652-S components in the kicks and a-pillar I fabricated
Infinity Kappa 6.1 Perfect components in the stock location
Stock in the rear which I'm not running
Anyway I appreciate your help to get the best sound out of what I have. I'm obviously not a pro at this but I'm really enjoying working on it. I'm open to any and all re-configurations and have the weekend ahead of me to finish it off. Not really trying to spend any more money right now, so I pretty well need to make due right now, as far as my audio system goes.
Last edited by revvenue; 10-01-2010 at 09:36 PM.
10-01-2010, 09:42 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
who did your kicks?
is your car auto or stick?
is the kick housing a 6.5"?
is it on axis or off axis?
why did the fabricator not house the tweet in the kick?
i kinda like in an automatic z doing the kicks on axis with a 6.5 " or 7" and tweet all housed in the kick and heavily deadend and forgetting the rear fill and bridging your 4 channel on each kick @ 4 ohm
or doing in a stick z doing the 6.5 or 7" in the kick off axis deadend and glassing the tweets at the bass of the a pillar on axis and bridging the amp on each pair at 4 ohm still ditching the rear fill
if your kicks do house a 6.5 & tweet i would forget the stock location for mid and tweet lose the rear fill and bridge the amp on each kick at 4 ohm and use deadner on the kicks pick the set of 6.5" components you like better in the kick
use it like this and see if you like
is your car auto or stick?
is the kick housing a 6.5"?
is it on axis or off axis?
why did the fabricator not house the tweet in the kick?
i kinda like in an automatic z doing the kicks on axis with a 6.5 " or 7" and tweet all housed in the kick and heavily deadend and forgetting the rear fill and bridging your 4 channel on each kick @ 4 ohm
or doing in a stick z doing the 6.5 or 7" in the kick off axis deadend and glassing the tweets at the bass of the a pillar on axis and bridging the amp on each pair at 4 ohm still ditching the rear fill
if your kicks do house a 6.5 & tweet i would forget the stock location for mid and tweet lose the rear fill and bridge the amp on each kick at 4 ohm and use deadner on the kicks pick the set of 6.5" components you like better in the kick
use it like this and see if you like
So you're saying I'm going to get better quality sound with the equipment I have, to bridge the amp for the components in the kicks and forget the set in the stock location.
As a MECP cert installer.. I must say that running 2 different speakers off the same channels is a poor idea. Yes, running the two would be 2 ohm if you paralleled 2 speakers together on ea channel.
A few questions..
Do you already own the speakers you mentioned?
DO you already own the kickpanels?
If you are just in planning phase.. Id ditch the midbass idea and just get some damn good speakers.
I run Alpine Imprint that has been fully time and phase corrected and use ONE set of Boston Acoustic PRO 60Ses in a Wicked CAS door and oem tweeter loc.
Im very aware of what proper staging should sound like as well...
I say all this because the Z is very small.. the path lengths are all crazy as hell, and kicks will help a little, but you can get insane midbass and tightness out of a simple set up by investing more money in the speakers and electronics themselves than piecing together more stuff that doesnt match.
BUT............... if you DO already own all that stuff.. try to track down a proper 3 way passive x over.. thats helps balance the impedance back to 4ohms when the frequency band is split across three ways.
SO i drank my rockstar way too fast.. prob gave you way more answer than was even asked.. but again, if you do just what you said, the answer is that it will only be approx 2 ohm per ch, not 1 ohm.
btw, if anyone has stereo or electrical and acoustic questions.. im always down for the questions. Everyone has theories, but i was in that biz a long long time.
: )
A few questions..
Do you already own the speakers you mentioned?
DO you already own the kickpanels?
If you are just in planning phase.. Id ditch the midbass idea and just get some damn good speakers.
I run Alpine Imprint that has been fully time and phase corrected and use ONE set of Boston Acoustic PRO 60Ses in a Wicked CAS door and oem tweeter loc.
Im very aware of what proper staging should sound like as well...
I say all this because the Z is very small.. the path lengths are all crazy as hell, and kicks will help a little, but you can get insane midbass and tightness out of a simple set up by investing more money in the speakers and electronics themselves than piecing together more stuff that doesnt match.
BUT............... if you DO already own all that stuff.. try to track down a proper 3 way passive x over.. thats helps balance the impedance back to 4ohms when the frequency band is split across three ways.
SO i drank my rockstar way too fast.. prob gave you way more answer than was even asked.. but again, if you do just what you said, the answer is that it will only be approx 2 ohm per ch, not 1 ohm.
btw, if anyone has stereo or electrical and acoustic questions.. im always down for the questions. Everyone has theories, but i was in that biz a long long time.
: )
My other option is to rip everything out and sell it on eBay, and try to start over. I would consider that if you really think I can't get some decent sound from what I have. I don't need anything that will win an SQ comp, just something that sounds clean and has some bass and highs. I'd rather try to work with what I've got right now. Thanks again for taking the time for your reply man. You sound like you know what you're talking about.
Last edited by revvenue; 10-01-2010 at 09:50 PM.
Trending Topics
10-02-2010, 12:05 PM
#8
i would try no using the mid in the factory location
not using the rear fill
not using the factory teeter housing
i would leave your 6.5 mid of choice in the kicks off axis and your tweeter of choice in the glassed base of the a pillar on axis if possible i would use deadner on back of kick i would bridge you 4 channel at 4 ohm i ch on lf one ch on rf
this is a way to spend no money and make best use of what you have front stage wise
car is stick then you really can't go on axis with the mid in the kick
you will not need to use that much gain on your amp as it will make more power bridging at 4 ohm i imagine your using crossover that came with the components
make sure your load is 4 ohm
not using the rear fill
not using the factory teeter housing
i would leave your 6.5 mid of choice in the kicks off axis and your tweeter of choice in the glassed base of the a pillar on axis if possible i would use deadner on back of kick i would bridge you 4 channel at 4 ohm i ch on lf one ch on rf
this is a way to spend no money and make best use of what you have front stage wise
car is stick then you really can't go on axis with the mid in the kick
you will not need to use that much gain on your amp as it will make more power bridging at 4 ohm i imagine your using crossover that came with the components
make sure your load is 4 ohm
Last edited by 350zspl; 10-02-2010 at 12:07 PM.
10-03-2010, 06:07 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alright got the amp installed, going to finish running the speaker wire up to the pillars, etc. this week. I installed the 4 channel in the stock Bose sub location and plan to install my mono in there as well with a kind of "layered" look using some shelving brackets so I can access the gains easily, etc.
Here's a pic showing off my 100,000 fingerprints I cleaned it up after the pic lol:
Any recommendations for venting that box? Do I need to run a 120mm fan or something in there or should they be okay?
Here's a pic showing off my 100,000 fingerprints I cleaned it up after the pic lol:
Any recommendations for venting that box? Do I need to run a 120mm fan or something in there or should they be okay?
Last edited by revvenue; 10-03-2010 at 06:11 PM.
10-04-2010, 08:08 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
m_0g
Audio, Video & Electronics (DIY)
12
06-03-2021 10:05 AM
bcoffee20
Zs & Gs For Sale
5
11-19-2015 06:39 PM
