Hey!
I purchased a new sub woofer system yesterday from a friend and was wondering if any of you could give me some insight on where to run the wires? I tried searching for info, and was only able to find out how to get through the firewall..

anyways here are the pictures.







Here are the 2 holes that I am assuming I have to run the wires through from the hatch, but where do they come out?( the picture is drivers side, but there is the same thing on the passenger side for the power wire...)





Here is the power wire that I ran through the firewall





And here is where I am assuming I have to run it through???

 

power wire
remove passenger kick panel and sill plate
run power under carpet down sill behind seat belt under b pillar plastic
under glove box that pops out and out hole of passenger side in front of rear strut tower cubby
use a grommet as to not cut power wire jacket

run rca along opposite path on drivers side

do you understand

how many watts is the amp , what is the fusing on it , what will be the final load the amp see's when wired to those 3 subs, and what gauge is the power wire
i would run all subs mounted the way the center sub is and forget inverting the end 2 drivers as if you do not the wires running from the speaker output of the amp will be exposed at the subs speaker terminals

 

I am using 4 quage wire..
The amp is a 5 channel amp and the previous owner had it power the subwoofers and a speaker system as well..
I can not put the other 2 subs in the other position because this box is custom built and they will not fit. inside.

 

how much power is the amp

like 100 watts x 4 ch @ 4 ohm
and like 400 x 1 @ 2 OHM

if yes as long as the amp is 1000 watts or less 4 awg power is fine

you can run the subs mounted as they are but speaker leads will be exposed

what is the coil configuration on the subs svc or dvc and what ohm

and is the mono output of the amp stable to what 1 ohm

 

i will have to check as far as all of the amp info, but on the amp it says 5500, 500 watt
The subs themselves if i believe correctly are 200 rms, single coil 4 ohm?

 

3 each svc 4 ohm subs means that the sub section of the amp will see 1.5 ohm load before
box rise

so if the amp is stable down to 1.5 ohm you will be fine

 

How do I go as far as removing the " behind seatbelt/under b pillar" plastic? If I understood correct, the power should run through the glove box out towards the rear strut assembly?

 

pull plastic behind seat belt carefully with a panel puller
it is fastened with plastic clips

straight out and carefully

once you get out kick panel , sill plates , and pull door weather strip back you can easily insert panel puller

you do not need to remove it like kicks and sills

just unfasten and break it away so you can fish the power wire thru that section and then wire toward plastic glove box area under removable glove box tray

 

my 2 cents... i do NOT mean this negatively.. but electrical and audio is not a good thing to DIY if you dont thoroughyl have the knowledge to do it.
Leave it to a pro, ask them , watch if possible, learn... but as someone who has done it for almost 20 years... the best way to do electrical and audio is to do it 100% right the first time w all the right tools and ZERO shortcuts... its almost a zen thing.. haha. Pull all those plastic panles from behind the seats and you will see there are many plastic channels to get wiring thru into the hatch. Avoid passing thru metal and always use grommets if it has to be done. Use solid grounds and always sand the metal under your grounds and paint over them when finished to avoid oxidizing..makes a huge diff.

make a plan ahead of time w knowledge of what the panels all look like under the plastic interior pieces.

But again, id just bring it in and have a good local shop hook it up.. WELL worth the labor charges, especially for a basic install..

Good luck senor!

 

Hey dude, congrats on going the DIY route with your audio install!

You've already gotten further than most who have never installed before, and that's reading threads and getting your hands dirty. Don't get discouraged in the process because the more you learn, the more rewarding the install will be in the end. Even if you do end up frying electronics in the process

My best advice for you from here (and come back to update us with any specific challenges you have-- there are plenty of folks willing to help others who are receptive to knowledge and advice) is the following; and this should get you going:

The plastic trim inside of our vehicles is all "pop-offable" spare a few parts that will require a screwdriver.

I ran my ACC + RCA lines down the left side of my vehicle and my power line down the right to avoid any noise you may get from crossing the RCA + Power.

Make sure you run 3 RCA pairs down at once instead of having to re-do it later. You'll need one for fronts, one for rear, and one for subs. Depending on your setup, of course and your headunit may only allow for 2 pair resulting in an RCA Y-adapter, etc.

For a clean install I parked my car in the garage over a weekend (turned in to more than 1 weekend ) and removed the seats, all plastic pieces, and the center console.

Remove the side kicks on the floor where the door opens, once those are out you can see a screw in the kick panels you can unscrew and remove the kick panels. Once those 2 pieces are removed you can pull the others out with just a little tug, or by using a long flat screwdriver or small pry bar (gently!)

Anyway, take your seats out and dis-assemble the center console. It's pretty self explanatory here just pull each component out and find the screws.

I ran all my speaker wires (spliced in behind the headunit for my fronts to get them power from my amp instead of from my headunit) and a USB / AUX input down my center console area in the vehicle. Made a USB input there and AUX input for my cell phone if I want to listen to Pandora. Ran the speaker wires from my front components back to my trunk to the amp.

Ran the RCA's + ACC (blue) line from the back of my headunit down the left side, ran the power line from the battery down the right side. Tucked them under the carpet.

Fused the power line within inches of the battery. Grounded the amp to a solid grounding point with a self-tapping screw sold at the part store or online-- or just use a bolt and put it into one of the many holes in the trunk area under the carpet. Just make sure it's tight as hell and you've sanded off primer/paint from the body where it connects.

That's a bunch of mumbo-jumbo but hopefully should get you in the right direction. There are tons of pics in the Install thread above the Audio discussion thread here, check them out for specifics or reply here if you have specific questions. Good luck!

 

Thanks for all the help guys, I ended up finishing last night

I wasn't trying to sound like a noob, I've done a couple of systems before, I just wanted opinions on where to run the wires through, and after looking around / your answers, it turned out easier that I thought. The hardest part for me was to get the RCAs and the remote to the damn headunit.. lol
System bumps nicely though.