oddjobbb

iTrader: (4)

My system in my 06 Roadster currently consist of :

Pioneer F90BT Head unit

Alpine V-12 MRV-F300 amp
RMS Power @ 12V
Per Channel into 4ohm > 30w x 4
Per Channel into 2ohm > 40w x 4
Bridged 2 Channel into 4ohm > 80w x 2


Ctx65cs - Image Dynamics 6.5" Component Speaker System

RMS Power Handling: 100 Watts
Peak Power Handling: 200 Watts
Frequency Response: +/- 3 db 58hz-22khz
Efficiency @ 2.83 volts: 93dB
Impedance: 4 Ohms

now i want to add a sub woofer into the cubby behind driver seat.the sub i am considering is this:

Alpine SWR-1043D 10" Subwoofer (4Ω + 4Ω)

Technical Details
Maximum Power Output: 1800W
RMS Power Handling: 600W
Frequency Response: 24-500 Hz
Impedance: DVC 4 Ohm

first off can my current amp handle the addition of this sub..
if not would this amp be a good choice??


Alpine MRP-M500 - Amplifier - 1-channel

Technical Details
RMS Power Per Channel Into 4 Ohms: 300W X 1
RMS Power Per Channel Into 2 Ohms: 500W X 1
2 Single Voice Coil Subs Or 1 Dual Voice Coil Works Best
Number 1 Rated Amp In The US

oddjobbb

iTrader: (4)

this is the sub enclosure i am planning on using.

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

jl 13tw5 and a pdx 1000.1 on 10farads.

or at least I did.

BillytheKid

iTrader: (2)

this. mines hooked up to a kenwood 600 watt and it hits extremely hard.

TURBOROADSTER

iTrader: (4)

[QUOTE=oddjobbb;9007158]My system in my 06 Roadster currently consist of :

Pioneer F90BT Head unit

Alpine V-12 MRV-F300 amp
RMS Power @ 12V
Per Channel into 4ohm > 30w x 4
Per Channel into 2ohm > 40w x 4
Bridged 2 Channel into 4ohm > 80w x 2


Ctx65cs - Image Dynamics 6.5" Component Speaker System

RMS Power Handling: 100 Watts
Peak Power Handling: 200 Watts
Frequency Response: +/- 3 db 58hz-22khz
Efficiency @ 2.83 volts: 93dB
Impedance: 4 Ohms

now i want to add a sub woofer into the cubby behind driver seat.the sub i am considering is this:

Alpine SWR-1043D 10" Subwoofer (4Ω + 4Ω)

Technical Details
Maximum Power Output: 1800W
RMS Power Handling: 600W
Frequency Response: 24-500 Hz
Impedance: DVC 4 Ohm

first off can my current amp handle the addition of this sub..
if not would this amp be a good choice??


Alpine MRP-M500 - Amplifier - 1-channel

Technical Details
RMS Power Per Channel Into 4 Ohms: 300W X 1
RMS Power Per Channel Into 2 Ohms: 500W X 1
2 Single Voice Coil Subs Or 1 Dual Voice Coil Works Best
Number 1 Rated Amp In The US[/QUOTE You can run a sub off the amp you currently have . You could either wire the fronts and backs in parallel to two of the channels(2 Ohm and no fading) and bridge the other two channels to your sub . Or you could do what I did and run the rears off of the deck , the fronts off of two of the amps channels and bridge the other two channels to a sub . Option three would be to buy a Mono amp to run your sub .

oddjobbb

iTrader: (4)

i am running the fronts off of the amp and i have the rears turned off. i thought i would bridge two of the channels on the amp to run the sub but i am not sure it has enough power to run the sub i am thinking of using

TURBOROADSTER

iTrader: (4)

I dought that sub you want to use will fit in a SRQ box without modification .

ITSJ^Y

OK, first off if you are going to use the Alpine V-12 MRV-F300 for your door speakers you are only going to be getting the 30w rms from them you might as well just run them off your head unit. And do not try to run the sub off of MRV-F300, if you did you would have to run each voice coil on one channel because the amp is not 2ohm stable when bridged, and you would be getting 80w rms to it, and from experience I can tell you running too little power to a sub is a good way to blow it. The MRP-M500 is a perfect choice for your sub wire it into 2 ohm and

oddjobbb

iTrader: (4)

thanks thats kind of what i was thinking

TURBOROADSTER

iTrader: (4)

You could also wire the coils in series . Your bridged MRV-F300 would see a 4ohm load . But 80w really isn't enough to power the sub you want . I've seen more subs damaged from underpowering than overpowering .

ITSJ^Y

No. No matter how you wire a single sub with dual 4ohm voice coils it will never be a 4ohm load. They can be wired down to 2ohm in parallel or 8ohm in series, the only way to get a 4ohm load is to treat each voice coil as a separate subwoofer and run one off of each channel.

Edit: I'm actually surprised no one has commented that a sub can't be blown on too little power maybe everyone here is smarter than some of the other forums I go to.

TURBOROADSTER

iTrader: (4)

I surely don't want to get into an argument with you about Ohms , But why do you think bridging a 2 channel (2 ohm stable)amp won't drive a 2 ohm speaker ? I have argued with many people on this subject over the last 20 years . It's because although it is a 2 ohm load the bridged amp is effectivley seeing it as a 1 ohm load . Same would be if you hooked an 8ohm speaker to the bridged amp , the amp effectivley see's a 4 ohm load .This is why , if you have a 2 channel amp that is 1 ohm stable , you can bridge it to a 2 ohm speaker and be fine . Like I said , if you don't agree , there are articles on the net to back this up .

TURBOROADSTER

iTrader: (4)

I'll dig up some articles

TURBOROADSTER

iTrader: (4)

Here is one

http://stason.org/TULARC/entertainme...ng-How-do.html
Also consider amplifier output protection. Amps with simple
power supply rail fusing are best for bridging. Amps that rely
on output current limiting circuits to limit output current
are likely to activate prematurely in bridge mode, and virtually
every current limit circuit adds significant distortion when it
kicks in. Remember bridging makes an 8 ohm load look like 4 ohms,
a 4 ohm load look like 2 ohms, etc. Also, real speakers do not
look like ideal resistors to amps. They have peaks and dips in
impedance with frequency, and the dips can drop below 1/2 the
nominal impedance. They also have wildly varying phase with
frequency.

2fastnc

iTrader: (1)

HA, did you get that off ebay also? Ive got the same one! When I ordered mine I told them I wanted to use the JL Audio 10v3. They made it so that it would fit. I am running the HD700/5 amp on mine. I have to buy the front speakers for my roadster and I will start installing my system. I cant figure out if I wont the c5's or the c3's Jl Comp speakers.

The amp I got is 100RMSx4 and the sub is 300RMS.

ITSJ^Y

No arguement started, but the sub he has picked out the Alpine SWR-1043D is a dual 4ohm meaning that wired in parallel it will be at 2ohms and in series it will be 8ohm. The amp an Alpine MRV-F300 though a 2ohm stable amp is only 4ohm stable when bridged. Yes you can run the 8ohm load on that amp but you are going to get ~half the power going to the subwoofer, ie with this amp about 40wrms.

Basically what you are saying is that if I had a 2 channel 2ohm stable amp and bridged it to a dual 2ohm sub in series making it 4ohm then the amp would blow or become damaged because it is actually seeing a 2ohm load and it is only stable at 4ohms when bridged. But I have done this numerous times and never had a problem with it because 4ohms is 4ohms no matter how you look at it. The amp sees it as not two 2ohm speakers but as one 4ohm speaker.

TURBOROADSTER

iTrader: (4)

A 2 ohm stable ampliifier is stable down to 2 ohms no matter how you wire it , bridged or stereo . Why do you think amp Makers put" Not 2 ohm stable when bridged" ? Becuase they don't want people hooking up a 2 ohm speaker to this bridged amp , because the amp Effectivley is really "seeing" a 1 ohm load . Did you read the article that I posted above ? I can provide more .

ITSJ^Y

Yes I read it, but it is going to have to come from a much more reputable source before I believe one word that it says. Any one can post a website saying that the sky is actually pink but that doesn't mean that it is true. But apparently there is no changing your view on it. But what I am saying is from experience if you wire a dual 4ohm speaker in series (8ohm) to a bridged amp you are going to get ~half the output as you would if you hook each voice coil (4ohm) to one channel

TURBOROADSTER

iTrader: (4)

This has been known for years ,I've been in car audio for 25 years and this is one of the first things I was taught . I guess it's just the younger generation that don't understand it . They think a mono amplifier load is the same as a 2 channel amplifier bridged load , False . If you have a mono car amp , it is a one channel amp . If you hook a 4 ohm speaker to it , it see's a 4 ohm load , 2 ohm speaker to it , it see's a 2 ohm load Etc , Etc . When you bridge an amplifier , your taking the voltage from each of the channels and adding it together to double voltage to the speaker(More Power) . In doing so your also doubling the current draw on the amplifier , The amplifier "thinks it is trying to run a impedance load that is lower than what it is actually running . If you hook up an 8 ohm speaker to the bridged amp , The amp is running an 8 ohm load , but it actually "See's it as a 4 ohm load because of the extra current needed in bridged mode .

TURBOROADSTER

iTrader: (4)

Its

This is taken straight off Crutchfields website . By your theory this would be a 2 ohm load . Here is the link
http://www.crutchfield.com/ISEO-rmsb...ofers_faq.html


Q: Can I bridge my mono amplifier?

A: No, you can not bridge a mono amp because there is nothing to "bridge" to — whatever impedance load you present to amplifier is the actual load that it sees. This differs from a multichannel amp in that when you bridge two channels together, you halve the load presented to them (for example, 2 4-ohm woofers wired in parallel and bridged to a stereo amplifier is "seen" as a 1-ohm load to that amp).