JonBell

iTrader: (4)

So more or less I got a new enclosure for the Z. It came with amp, subs, and a capacitor. This is my first time ever seeing a capacitor. I tried to search, but no dice.

From my understanding I need to run the wire from the battery to the capacitor, from there ground the capacitor. Then run a second wire from the positive cap end and run it to the amp (also grounded)? Correct me if I am wrong but there is minimal to nothing to be gained from a capacitor. I just figure it is there and attached so why not use it.

Without drilling holes in the car, what is the best route to get the power/RCA cables back to the enclosure? My assumption is that I run the power on the passenger side under the carpet and somehow maneuver it up and back to the back of the strut then plug it from there. And same thing with the RCA just on the drivers side. Perhaps better way?

One last thing, New to the dual sub enclosure scene. There seem to be an input for the subs on each side however when I picked this up the lady had a power cord in one of the inputs. I am guessing she just put it there and had no clue. Because it would seem to me that 2 separate speaker wires should be ran to both sides.

Thanks in advanced,
Jon

chaparro78

iTrader: (2)

Cap issue - 0 or 4 gague power cable from Battery positive to Cap positive. Then another to amp. Same size ground cable to a ground, will have to find a place near cap to sand paint down to metal and ground there OR just not use the cap at all.

DO NOT run power next to speaker wires, you will get noise. May ways to route, since battery is on passenger side, its the shortest distance to back.

You should only have 2 wires coming out of your sub enclosure. 1 for positive and 1 for negative to connect to your amp. Might want to see if your subs are in series or parallel. That would give you your ohm value

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

i recommend taking it to professionals.. if you do not fully understand car audio and 12 v , you can easily damage your car or items and could harm yourself or start a fire if you dont instlal your cap right.

I know audio is thought of as the ultimate DIY, but it is indeed not the case.
Best advice.. take it the pros locally and they can show you what and why they do what they do, and then you can start learning.

What city are you in ?
Theres always audio express, and the labors not that bad.

JonBell

iTrader: (4)

I have installed subs a couple of times just no capacitor and not some funky setup that I got, I feel that I can do just needed to make sure mainly how to wire the capacitor.

I am in Tempe. I have one pretty close to me, but me doing it is free...

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

makes sense..

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audi...stallation.htm

This should do the trick.. also this is a must know/must do:
the LAST wire you hook up in the whole mess is the 12 volts from the battery to the cap, and it must be done w a resistor... hook the ends of the wire on the resistor and stick one end in the cap... use needlenose pliers or a set of losely adjusted visegrips to hold the resistor as it will burn you quickly. After 10 seconds or so, ( keep it all touching). move the battery cable ring terminal to the caps piost and screw it down...

if you dont do this, you are looking at a very nice giant sized spark show directly in your face. and possibly a ruined cap.

To keep it easy, i disconnnect the battery at the engine ( ur supposed to anyways, but no one does ha) and hook all my caps and amps up as i wish, and use the resistor when reinstalling the cable at the battery.. much easier to work with it all in the engine bay.
Otherwise, it is easy, and yes, it will be free.

Just dont die please. jk.

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

to ruin rca's, you need to route them to the left or right side of the car under the dash.. then pull the door sill trim, the kick panels ( partially, just to tuck the cables), and also fully remove the plastic around the back corner windows.. it pulls out. and thats it. theres tons of room and actually has a white plastic channel you can open and use and snap back into place.
Some ppl go thru the center console, but you ahve to loop the cables over several holes in the factrory sheet metal, and without grommeting them all, after time, they WILL gnaw a hole thru your wires and cables.. never good.

I had little to no induced noise from this side area, especially when youre just talking about a sub amp.. Id spend far more time making sure your grounds are good than anything else.. you MUST sand away the underpaint where your ground makes contact... youd be shocked to see what a difference it makes.

JonBell

iTrader: (4)

So I pretty have everything ran now, just last few questions.

Do I need to ground them to separate locations (amp and capacitor that is)?

I must use a resistor to charge the capacitor or it will make a large shock? And from what you said I use the resistor in the engine bay? What exactly do you mean by that, if it is easier sounds like something I would like.

phreaktor

iTrader: (22)

I always used the bleed resistor on the cap side. Hold it with some pliers cuz it will get HOT. If you try connecting without using the resistor prepare to destroy the terminal on the cable and the cap. HUGE current draw FTL.

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

unhook the power wire to your amps at the battery as is standard when working on your amps.
wire up your cap and amps.
Before connecting the cable back to the battery, use the resistor between the cable and the batteries terminal.
Its the same thing as doing it at the cap.the engine bay method better isolates your face and hands and the cap. just make SUUUUUUUUURE the polarity is all correct when you do so or you will light your car on fire my man. theres ALOT of power in that cap. its very simple, but that means its simple to forget what color you used for ground etc and mess it up.. i always reccomend black and red even if it doesnt match the cars color scheme etc... ive blown up a ton of gear by chosing silvers and blues etc etc.

JonBell

iTrader: (4)

Thanks guys for the help I did end up getting it all installed that day before I had work.

I was wondering what everyone had done with the stock sub location or if anyone had ideas. I did search and didn't get results I was looking for. The previous owner had put a 10" Kicker in the stock location and cut a hole in the plastic so it wouldn't hit it. Now I have an ugly empty hole. I could put the sub back in but I don't see the point other than to fill it up. Is there anything that I could put in there? Like perhaps another glove box (pointless but fills the space). Open to all ideas!

350zspl

iTrader: (3)

buy a new plastic piece to cover the hole

JonBell

iTrader: (4)

Tried looking for one but I can't seem to find one. I could wait for a part out but eh.

Something not too common would be awesome.

350zspl

iTrader: (3)

you can buy one from the dealer
i would imagine roughly $100

or create a WTB thread in that correct section as there are many members that have done work in that area leaving that piece un-used