Mike Anthony

iTrader: (1)

Just bought a 2007 350z nismo. The speakers suck. I wanna replace all of them. Currently it doesnt have any subs or the two back speakers. Im buying a custom box to mount 2 10" subs in. I also want to replace the bose head unit with a touch screen head unit. The problem is, I don't know a single thing about car audio whatsoever. So if you guys could bear with me...

1. Is it even worth it to put the two rear 6.5" speakers in that are behind the seats?

2. Will upgrading the speakers require re-wiring the car?

3. What is a good head unit to replace the stock bose one with? And are there any that fit the slot where the bose one was perfectly? I want it to look good.

4. What brand/model speakers would you suggest using as the 6.5" speakers?

If anyone has any advice or suggestions for me, please inform me! I really want to get this done because I miss my previous audio quality. I'll do whatever it takes, but I don't want to damage the car.

Spike100

Answering your questions:

Is it even worth it to put the two rear 6.5" speakers in that are behind the seats?

Some owners say yes while others say no. This is an issue debated frequently here. If you prefer more “fill,” the rear speakers accomplish this.
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Will upgrading the speakers require re-wiring the car?

No. And, do not believe people who say that rewiring is necessary. It’s not.
==============================
What is a good head unit to replace the stock bose one with? And are there any that fit the slot where the bose one was perfectly? I want it to look good.

Anything you buy will be better than the stock Bose H/U. Any DD H/U fits the Z’s H/U slot. You need the appropriate trim kit.
==============================

What brand/model speakers would you suggest using as the 6.5" speakers?

That decision depends upon the amount you are willing to spend, and the external amplifier you install.
==============================

Hope this is helpful,

--Spike

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

your sentence that states you know nothing about car audio means inequivocabily that you need to seek out a local shop and have this done professionally so it is correct and has warranty.

You can learn as you go.

For now, pay a pro.

Mike Anthony

iTrader: (1)

I mean as far as what would be good to put in my car. Head unit, speakers, etc. I don't know too much about them. I'm an electrician in real life as well as a commercial burner technician so working on something like this really is nothing for me. As long as I know what stuff is good and if it will go in my car and work, then I can do it. I found the subs I want, the custom enclosure that I want, which has the correct amount of as space as required by the subs. I will have a JL audio amp for the subs. I can mount the amp inside the sub enclosure behind the seat I believe, since that's where it would be if the car came with the bose sub and amp. There wiring is supposed to be there already. So I need to upgrade the head unit, get the trim kit for a double din head unit for a 350z, replace the four 6.5" speakers. And I'm not sure about the amp for the 6.5" speakers. Is that compatible with a different head unit?



Some owners say yes while others say no. This is an issue debated frequently here. If you prefer more “fill,” the rear speakers accomplish this.

As long as the rear speakers wont sound out of place, I want do install them.

No. And, do not believe people who say that rewiring is necessary. It’s not.

That's good. I coulda done it but I'd rather not go through the trouble of taking everything apart.

Anything you buy will be better than the stock Bose H/U. Any DD H/U fits the Z’s H/U slot. You need the appropriate trim kit.

Shound I go with Metra, or American International for the DD heat unit? I have a 2007 Nismo.

Also, do you have any suggestions for head units? I definitely want a touchscreen that can do CDs and ipods and whatnot. Bluetooth would be nice too. If you know of any decent ones let me know! Also, any suggestion on 6.5" speakers?

That decision depends upon the amount you are willing to spend, and the external amplifier you install.

I'm willing to put some money into this. My friend will sell me the amp and the two subs.

This is the amp he's givin' me:
http://www.amazon.com/JL-AUDIO-1000-.../dp/B00133SUAK

And these are the subs:
http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SWR-102...1193086&sr=1-9

He said he'd give it all to me for $450. Good deal?

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

several things.
That is FAR more amp than necessary for those subs.
It is also not a regulated power supply.
The wiring for such an amplifier will be tremendous , the current capacity of your oem electrical system ( alternator and diodes especailly) will ahve a hard time handling the amerage requirements to run that at normal voltage.


Putting the amp inside the box should never be done, it needs full convection and cooling and should be mounted flat so the circuit board and heat sinks can disapate heat away and up, not up and into itself.

As far as midrange speakers, ALpine SPR aqre a very good bang for the buck.
BEing that youre not a competing audiophile, you will surely want a full range of sound to get your desired volume elvels acheived.
BUY BACK SPEAKERS for sure.

Just get a set or SPR coaxs out back, and set of SPR components fro the front, veyr cheap, veytr decent, and youre good to go. You will need mouting spacers fro the fronts.

As for the dash kit, if you use a double din head unit, very little of the dash kit will show, it all uses your stock brakcets. Buy whats available.

In terms of the headunit, I always buy ALpine, but you can buy any other 2din that you see that youd like.
Again, go to a shop, try things out.

The fact that your an electrician during the day helps and hinders you.. things that dont matter in your field are vastly important in 12v.. you know the deal.. were deailing w 12-14 volts and very limited current ability. versus 120 volts and limitless current ability. ( theres no municipal power grid in your car )

any voltage drops will result in aggressive jumps in voltage and heat and will shorten the life of the alternator, amp and even wiring terminations.

Its a great deal on a very good amp, dont get me wrong, but with out a sizeable investment in your mid speakers head unti and amp for your mids as WELL as capacitors and large wiring to help w voltage drops.. its vastly overkill on the bass side for woofers that dont need any where near that power.

That combo would be great for a Tahoe.


OP WHATS YOUR BUDGET.

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

i can recommend some parts for you that are very high quality, fit the Z, fit the electrical system, and have high resale, depends on your budget .. let me know.

Mike Anthony

iTrader: (1)

several things.
That is FAR more amp than necessary for those subs.
It is also not a regulated power supply.
The wiring for such an amplifier will be tremendous , the current capacity of your oem electrical system ( alternator and diodes especailly) will ahve a hard time handling the amerage requirements to run that at normal voltage.

I had a feeling that amp was overkill. I want to avoid alot of extra wiring if at all possible.

Putting the amp inside the box should never be done, it needs full convection and cooling and should be mounted flat so the circuit board and heat sinks can disapate heat away and up, not up and into itself.

This is the enclosure I want to buy:
http://www.zenclosures.com/PhotoGall...uctCode=Z210AR

The slanted part between the bar and the seats is supposedly for mounting the amp on. would that be satisfactory for mounting the amp? It wouldnt be perfectly horizontal but it would be open.

As far as midrange speakers, ALpine SPR aqre a very good bang for the buck.
BEing that youre not a competing audiophile, you will surely want a full range of sound to get your desired volume elvels acheived.
BUY BACK SPEAKERS for sure.

Speakers I have no idea on yet. I did want to buy back speakers so this is a plus

Just get a set or SPR coaxs out back, and set of SPR components fro the front, veyr cheap, veytr decent, and youre good to go. You will need mouting spacers fro the fronts.

Alrighty, got the spacers bookmarked. I have a decent budget so if there's anything better that you would recommend just let me know!

As for the dash kit, if you use a double din head unit, very little of the dash kit will show, it all uses your stock brakcets. Buy whats available. In terms of the headunit, I always buy ALpine, but you can buy any other 2din that you see that youd like.
Again, go to a shop, try things out.

I was kinda liking the sound of this head unit, what do you think?
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/ina-w910

The fact that your an electrician during the day helps and hinders you.. things that dont matter in your field are vastly important in 12v.. you know the deal.. were deailing w 12-14 volts and very limited current ability. versus 120 volts and limitless current ability. ( theres no municipal power grid in your car )

I'm actually in a more specific field than a normal electrician. I focus on commercial HVAC and controls. I deal with alot of low voltage and amperages actually. Mirco/milli volts DC/AC and amps here and there as well Lot's of 4/10/24/40 voltages with all the different kinds of controls around.

Its a great deal on a very good amp, dont get me wrong, but with out a sizeable investment in your mid speakers head unti and amp for your mids as WELL as capacitors and large wiring to help w voltage drops.. its vastly overkill on the bass side for woofers that dont need any where near that power.

Well then, I will tell him I dont want the amp! Are the speakers decent though? The alpine type r's?

OP WHATS YOUR BUDGET.

My budget it pretty high. It's probably not going to happen all at once. Unless I slap it on my credit card and pay it off over a couple months. Feel free to suggest to me what you think I should do and I'll let you know if I would want to do it based on money or not. You guys have alot more experience than me with this stuff, so I trust you.

EDIT: Yes, please suggest to me what you would recommend. I want it all to be compatible!

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

thats a fantastic deck, yes, you will have no issue w that unit.

Wiring for any amp will need to be run by yourself or a shop, but is fairly basic and inobtrusive.

Ive had that zenclosure box, and for what it is, theres more material than necessary, and IMHO, is just too big for what it is.
you can run these woofers and be very happy, series them inside the box and run mono to the sub channel.. good to go at 4 ohms.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-JL-AUDIO-10W...ht_3097wt_1101

If you want quality and simple,
buy the alpine deck you listed, buy a single 5 channel amp and mount it under the passenger seat
I highly reccomend this amp.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-PDX-5-5-C...#ht_2330wt_932

Its the size of a pack of copier paper, and if you outgrow its bass channel, you can match it exactly w a separate mono amp under the drivers seat later on, zero going backwards, no waste of money.



Also, id run this more simple box, looks far better and will not be visible to theives like the other. trust me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Nissan-350Z-Subw...ht_2735wt_1038

It will fit 7 inch deep subs w a 6.5 dia magnet, thats pretty big.



As for front speakers buy these if you want to keep costs down
http://cgi.ebay.com/Alpine-SPR-17S-6...#ht_6876wt_746

or buy these if you want the best.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Boston-Acoustics...item45fbbb0720

either way, buy these for the rears speakers .. more than enough for sure.

Amp install at a shop would cost you maybe 150 bucks including all parts.
rear speakers 35
fr speakers 55
Headunit 75 including the dash kit parts.
It makes sense to ahve them do it since the cost is usually so cheap and the possibility to fry anything is far far far less.

the biggest gain i saw was using alpine imprint technology to eq my car...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-PXA-H100-...item20bb3ca5e9

add this, have someone run the tuning program for you and you will be shocked at how amazing it sounds.

I still break stuff from time to time.

Anyways hope that helps.

Mike Anthony

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, that helps alot man. This is gonna put a huge dent in my wallet but I think it's worth it. I like my music.

Man, $2,946 dollar audio system. I may have to try to skimp somewhere cuz I don't know if I would want to spend that much though haha. Looks like a damn good setup though.

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

box- 100
subs- 400
deck- 1050
imprint- 169
amp-380
rears- 90
fronts- 389
install- approx 200
2575 or so before labor.

you can get it down a bit running a normal deck or drop another 200 off going w SPRs in front, but its so worth it to upgrade..truly.

I like expensive car stock systems, like the new 911s? Its simple, isnt all visible and high schoolish, and plays all songs well and is loud clear and fun.

this will certainly have that sound... you will never buy audio for this car again, i can tell u that much...
My system, can bust out cello and opera music just as good as fast heavy metal...

my set up is the same as this except i run the flat subwoofer in the glovebox.. a 1000 watt alpine a seperate big alpine 4 channel and have huge capacitors and wiring to support it.

that new deck you listed is dope.. wish i had waited to buy that..mines the older model. iva w505.

My LT Won

that amp will be fine. i have my bc3500 on 2ohms at the moment with stock electrical and get zero voltage drop on 95% of songs. i also get zero headlight dimming at night. this is with 1/0 wiring and big 3 wiring done in 1/0. it is also better to have too much amp and keep the gains set to a minimum. instead of a small amp sending a dirty signal to reach your demands. a quality 4awg wiring kit will be plenty for that amp.

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

OP, up to you, the amp your buddy is selling sure aint bad.. but you'll need to run far larger wiring and a capacitor for it, and its more than necessary for the subs hes including.

I highly question the guality of Crescendo amps as well.. they are a direct buy company.... strange. If it works for you go with it, not bashing at all.. but its not quite what the OPs looking for.

Yes and no. while i agree having a larger amp than necessary is good, the idea of dirty signal comes from amplifying clipped signal in the signal path, ie headunit to amplifier.. i doubt highly that he will be clipping the 5 channel w either the the Alpine he chose or the Imprint if he went that route.

HEadlight dimming.. do you have HIDs? They dont dim at all.
1 gauge wring helps tremendously, but you do have voltage drop.. you just ahvent had an issue w it yet. we have a 100 amp alternator... when ppl theorize why they magically have more power than that to run thier car, its still a chuckle to me. Its physics, it is what it is. If youre amp is aregulated power supply, it has a step transformer in the piower supply.. it truly DOES make full power over a wider range of voltages.
If it is unregulated, the power can be maximized if a guy has a huge alternator, but will SUFFER in a car w a stock electrical system.
IE, no point payuing for more amp if you dont ahve the juice to make it play.
Been in the audio game well over 20 years as a professional.

OP, up to you, the amp your buddy is selling sure aint bad.. but you'll need to run far larger wiring and a capacitor for it, and its more than necessary for the subs hes including.

IM not a know it all, but again, ive done this stuff over and over and over and over.
Ive had a suburban with two seats and multiple 12" drivers, dual alternators, a pleixglass windsheild, etc etc..
And ive had several smaller cars including several Zs and ahve done systems in them all... i was previously an MECP vertified installer, and ran a retailer as well as a 5 bay installation shop.

Hope this adds some confidence in our chat.