Thanks, now I see what you've done. I thought you were going to fire the sub thru the stock opening. Two questions:

What are the dimensions of that box?

And any rattles? Yes / No?

Still debating between something like this (generic box firing up) and the SRQ pre-fab glove box that downfires. I've got a downfiring sub in my truck (custom center console) and my home theater setup so I know they work well, but in the Z... not so sure.

 

YO!

I don't know the exact dimensions of the box. as you can see I just removed reduced the size of one side. I know when you change the size of the box it affects the sound of the speaker but I'm not that picky

The sound has been great. Installed new head unit and rear speakers too and it's kickin

 

Tapping into the power wire like this is a bad idea. By doing this you run the risk of blowing the linkable fuse if your pulling a decent amp draw. You should connect directly to the battery + post. Believe me youll end up having to buy another linkable fuse which costs $70.

 

hmm. Well, I always have been known to be a bit **** about electrical stuff and wiring. Probably a product of who taught me. I do know that the recommended limit for ground wires is 18". I learned something new today about power wire length, though. I'll continue being extra safe though lol

Assuming that the ground is good, there should be no issue with how he's tapped his battery. The fusible link is after his amp wire, so as long as he's got a good ground for the amp then the fusible link should see no load from the amplifier. That's my understanding, at least. I could be wrong, but I've installed probably over 200 amps.

 

I running two 10" fosgates in a generic box sitting in the back hatch right now. It looks like crap, which doubly sucks since my amp install is nearly identical to yours, so I want to clean things up a bit.

I want to get an Alpine SWR1043D (or 1042D if I can find any laying around) and put in in an SRQ box, but I'm not sure I'll be happy with the sound from that thing. Anyone have a friend of a friend with one of these boxes who can tell me how it sounds?

The goal is to keep things as stock looking as possible aside from the head unit.

 

I'm going the same route: stealth install. My worry is rattles. Downfiring a sub into a small space made of nothing but metal and plastic seems like a bad idea, but reviews of the glove box (combined with Dynamat) in Roadsters have been positive on this site.

Would love more feedback as well.

 

I didn't dynamat mine but I used roof flashing tar stuff, looks just like dynamat but way less expensive and I lined the whole inside and mounted the sub in the stock frame. It still rattles on very bassy rap songs but soounds awesome on rock.

It was a lot of work and doesn't sound even as close to as good as it should but it is better then nothing is how I think of it. If I could go back I would do under the strut tower, I just really need the trunk space so I didn't go that way.

Notes:
- Line the edge of the metal frame with some type of foam insulation
- Make sure the sub has a rubber edge or foam insulation
- Try to double up the sides of the inside because the pressure will eventually push it back
- Put some type of insuation on the edge of the plastic cover because it will rattle like crazy if not.

 

So your sub is not in a sealed box? Just attached to the stock metal panel? If so then I would expect the results to be... ummm sub par

 

A good ground has nothing to do with the load the amp is drawing through the fusible link . Lets say the link is rated for 100 amps and the car is drawing 50 amps (heater , wipers, headlights , radio , etc) . If you hook up an amplifer that draws 60 amps at high volume , chances are you will blow the fusible link . That amplifier is running through the fusible link . It is ALWAYS best to go straight to the + post .