hey i just got my 08 z, i had a system installed to it im running 2 12" l5 kickers and a 2400 watt amp and everytime i turn it up my inside lights dims , and my gauges dim and jump around is that normal or should i install a equalizer ??and it wont affect my oil pressure or do harm to my car right?

 

You need a cap, not an EQ. Really i would just downsize to a single 10, no need for a ghetto thumping system.

 

what happens if i use my system like that for a month or two?

 

a capacitor will only be a bandaid for the time being. If you want to run the big of a system what you need to do is upgrade your battery and potentially your alternator as well. I have been installing for the past 6 years and while a cap will help, its not a solution to your problem. I have run setups for and at competitions, obviously not in my Z, but have been able to create every setup without the need for a cap.

 

how much does a cap. run for?
is it ok to leave it like that for a while? like a month or two?

 

www.sonicelectronix.com

or

www.crutchfield.com

both have capacitors, (caps) listed for sale. I had a 1.5 farad on my 1000 watt system. It was completely unnecessary for the little juice I was drawing. Either way, a cap isn't gonna fix your problem like trapp1829 said. Upgrade to an optima yellow top battery. There is a DIY on exactly how to install one.

 

dont be stupid upgrade your battery to a yellow top if it still dims then look into a cap or 2nd battery

 

My first question would be what kind of "2400" watt amp are you running?

 

what

in

the FAWK

are you talking about OP..

I call 100% troll bot post on this one.

DONT REPLY TO THIS thread FELLAS...

Check ur blinker fluid man.

 

a performance technique amp

 

dude chill out keep your negative feed back to your self,, this is my first car

 

^ its not obvious.
its not even engrish.

Your fully allowed to be bashed for mentioning dimming lights and oil pressure as related topics.


Welcome btw.

 

I believe your problem lies within this low quality amp or maybe the wiring/install. If you bought a reputable manufacturer's product and had it installed properly your lights won't dim when the bbbbbbbbbbass hits.

 

You are not running a 2400 rms amp on your stock electrical.... if you are goodluck to you sir. I would find out how much RMS your amp puts out for real and go from there. 1000-1500 is pushing it pretty far on stock electrical. A new alternator and battery is the correct solution if that amp is really 2400 RMS.

 

It's $200 on a good day. So not 2400......more like 240rms.

 

how do you find out how many watts your amp is really pushing?

 

heres my amp info, idk how much its pushing


2400 Watts Digital Mono Block Amplifier
1 Ohm Stable
Max Output Power: 2400 WATTS @ 1 OHM
1000 watts RMS @ 1 Ohm
800 watts RMS @ 2 Ohm
450 watts RMS @ 4 Ohm
High Current Amp
Huge 80A fuse
CLASS "X"
Low heat emmission
More Efficiency than other Class D Amp Designs
Digital mono block design
Built in low pass crossover filter
Crossover Slope 24DB per Octave
free bass ****
Daisy chainable (you can connect 2 of these amps togeather to run 1 load of subs (1, 2, 3, or 4 subs)
Input Sensitivity Control (6V to 0.2V)
Bass Equalizer Control
Bass Frequency Control
Phase Control
Adjustable Bass Boost - 0 - 18 dB
Wired Bass Remote Control
Gold Plated Terminals & RCA
RCA Pre-amp output
2 gauge power terminals
High Efficiency Low Heat Emission
High Damping Factor For Improved Bass hits
Uses Less Energy from the car battery, so your lights don't need to dim, and you can still have a lot of power!
Real 1-Ohm stability means this amp will stay cool, after pounding for days straight, with 2 dual voice coil 4 ohm subs running down to 1 ohm. Other amps may say 1 ohm stable, but this one is truly 1 ohm stable!

 

the subs ur running are 600 rms each at 2 ohms and ur amp is 800 rms at 2 ohms so i am gussing ur running around 300 watts rms to each sub ur amp is a joke

 

so i should be good on my stock electrical?

 

Uses Less Energy from the car battery, so your lights don't need to dim, and you can still have a lot of power!
Real 1-Ohm stability means this amp will stay cool, after pounding for days straight, with 2 dual voice coil 4 ohm subs running down to 1 ohm. Other amps may say 1 ohm stable, but this one is truly 1 ohm stable!

LOL the fact it says this in their description is dead give away to not buy into this crap.

You should be fine on your stock electrical but I'm sure that amp is not efficient at all.. and that is why your lights are dimming.

I would recommend to sell your current amp and get a decent proven one. There are all kinds so do your research... Also look up a tutorial on how to set the "GAINS" on an amp correctly.

As an example I have 1000w RMS on my stock electrical and my lights barely dim on full tilt.