Hi guys,


I wonder what kind of battery fits in to the hole to smoth plug in a 2 - 3k
RMS audio and what kind of mark is the best Stinger?

Thx in advice

 

I will recommend optima yellow top. The size for our car is D35

 

Die Hard Platinum.

You'll probably want to do something like the big 3 if your system is really at 3k RMS, as well as possibly a HO alternator.

 

I like breezee's recommendation. I have used Optima in my off-road vehicles as well. It's a great battery.

--Spike

 

Optima ftw. It's what I have on my z. It's about 15 pounds lighter.

 

optima use to be good.. i had an original yellowtop that lasted 11 years..
the next one lasted 1 yearr.. optima sold there company .. and is now manufactured very cheap.. they dont last like they use to..

best batteries are xs power.. get a d3400
or try a Juicebox Apple

just my opinion

 

^--This. Optima has fallen from grace, check out a lot of SPL and car audio forums and they say the same thing. Die Hard Plats are rebadged Odysseys with a better warranty. XS powers are really nice too.

 

Hello, I noticed your conversation involving our batteries and wanted to offer some assistance. Adriano350z, given your audio modifications, I would definitely recommend using a battery designed for deep-cycle use. Upgrading your wiring and alternator is also wise advice.

Johnson Controls did acquire Optima back in 2000, but we still manufacture all of our own batteries in our own facility and they are the only batteries produced there. We never re-label or re-spec our batteries for any of our retail partners. wrecker, our batteries do come with warranty coverage. Were you able to get warranty service on your YellowTop?

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries

 

nice to see optima here.. but i recommend steer clear.. check any car audio forums.. They all have the same problems with the new optima rea sell of the company.. They are a entry level battery .. so u Might as well try something else.. or just buy something that u know will last.
just my 2 cents. not hating.. just going by experience and research .
And about the warranty.. as soon as u tell them u are using a big stereo.. They don't want to refund u .. The blame gets put on the user.

Google Swollen Optima battery
I would recommend a proper car audio battery ..
Im sure optima are great in a regular application.. but not the high demand of a proper car stereo. High draw and charge.

 

I’m repeating information I presented previously, but I stand by my statement that Optima is a superior product. I’ve used Optima for years (previously and recently) and have never experienced anything less than “optimal.”

A request to “wrecker.” You obviously have experience here, but you did not provide specific examples for the problems you describe. Can you provide better detail and the owners/users that have the problems you reference?

Spike
=================

 

its fairly a simple process..
man kind is always making improvements.
there is only so far u can go with a battery.
it comes down to materials. / manufacturing.
if one chooses to cheap out.. it will show by failure..
years ago all i would do it boast about how optima was the best..
but times have changes.. and there is a specific market for car audio batteries..
that will give timed
MAX Amps – 5000
CA – 1360A
RC – 237min.
Ah – 110
...excetera

i am not against optima in no way..
just i am always researching for the best product.
i first researched my favorite optima when i was in the market for a new battery bank setup.. googled them and found problems and flaws. that lead me away..

my issues i had with my optima are irrelevant.
but i had one that would always oxidize on the negative terminal..
i could go on and on on trouble shooting..
this is usually due to leaking .. but its a supposed dry battery .
or not tight enough connection..
i used die electric grease.. still happened.
ultra tight connection .. still problem
tried .. baking soda /// lemon juice..
went through 2 new terminals.. one expensive gold plated solid copper terminal..
the battery ate both the terminals

so one battery kept leaking .. the other swelled up .. and wouldn't hold a charge..

i believe its always buyer beware.. and do your home work.. research ..
if u want to believe i just had bad luck.. go for it..

but when you buy something off the shelf and it fails ! is it really bad luck?
or is that poor craftsman ship ?
i think to many people overlook wrongly manufactured items to easily..( just exchange for a different one.. and hope it lasts..)

you decide.
this is not bashing.. its my experience .

 

wrecker, thanks for the reply.

My experience is very different from what you describe. I use Optima in my off-road vehicles as well as my Z, and I could not imagine a better solution. Optima’s mounting flexibility makes this an ideal solution.

Optima’s reliability is exceptional, making this a great solution for off-road recreation when you are far from service for your vehicle. I’ve used Optima for many years (and have made recent purchases/installations) and find the product quite superior.

Spike
_________________________________________

 

Its fairly a simple process..
Mankind is always making improvements.
there is only so far u can go with a battery.
it comes down to materials. / manufacturing.
if one chooses to cheap out.. it will show by failure..
years ago all i would do it boast about how optima was the best..
but times have changes.. and there is a specific market for car audio batteries..
that will give timed
MAX Amps – 5000
CA – 1360A
RC – 237min.
Ah – 110
excrete...

i am not against optima in no way..
just i am always researching for the best product.
i first researched my favorite optima brand when i was researching the new market. googled many new found problems and flaws. that lead me away..

my issues i had with my optima are irrelevant.
but i had one that would always oxidize on the negative terminal..
i could go on and on on trouble shooting..
this is usually due to leaking .. but its a supposed dry battery .
or not tight enough connection..
i used die electric grease.. still happened.
ultra tight connection .. still problem
tried .. baking soda /// lemon juice..
went through 2 new terminals.. one expensive gold plated solid copper terminal..
the battery ate both the terminals

so one battery kept leaking .. the other swelled up .. and wouldn't hold a charge..

as for maintenance..
you need to charge them on a trickle charge.. 2amps.. (slow) or they will swell
always keep your battery full.. a full battery is a happy battery
never ran my stereo with the car off.. never been drained .
everything is an investment .. take care of your stuff.

i believe its always buyer beware.. and do your home work and research ..
if u want to believe i just had bad luck.. go for it..

but when you buy something off the shelf and it fails ! is it really bad luck?
or is that poor craftsman ship ?
you decide.
this is not bashing.. its my experience .

 

Thx for so many answers

I researched the net for Yellow Top and XS Power D3400, and find out that the xs is a creme de la creme for car audio solutions nowdays and also 12A(55 to 67) ahead of Optima for the fitment in 350z.

Therefore I will rather go for XS.

 

wrecker, our RedTop is an SLI (starting/lighting/ignition) battery and is not designed or warrantied for deep-cycle use, including car audio or winching. We're pretty clear about that, but I've lost count of the number of car audio guys I've come across who wanted the RedTop anyway to match their paint color (the same is true for red Jeep owners with winches). That is why I recommened the OP only consider batteries designed for deep-cycle use. Google “Optima” with any other search terms and you are going to find results. That happens when you are the dominant AGM brand in the marketplace.

While our batteries are “sealed,” we do not have a 0% defect rate and it is possible you received a battery that had a legitimate issue. As I previously asked- were you not able to get warranty service on your battery? There are several reasons why batteries leak at the terminals and swell. Where did you see swelling in your battery and why do you think that happened?

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries

 

I just installed an Optima YellowTop D35 in my Z a couple of days ago. Painless install and fit's like a glove. I run a 1200w stereo. Alpine PDX-F4 and M6 Amps and Alpine 10" Sub. Boston Acoustics component door and coax rears. Head unit is an inexpensive Pioneer single din unit w/Sat and HD radio. No issues with charging and load in the heat. It's been 100+ the last few days here in Dallas. Perhaps the newness has yet to wear off. I sure hope the 36 month warrantee is good in 24 months when batteries, even expensive ones, start to die here. Hot Desert heat in the summer and near Zero in the coldest part of winter kills batteries in my experience. Time will tell, I'm hopeful it was a good choice.

 

I appreciate your time to try and help.
Anyone should know to use a yellow top if you require any demand of electricity.. not a red top for car audio.
I think its fair we could start a trouble shooting thread if needed.
I'd prefer to keep the thread on point about battery recommendations.

 

hey Adriano350z
i have a large post in the audio builds section showing the fitment and install of a xs d3400 in the z

 

I checked on my sources and XS Power xe12 - 60 costs 400 euro with shipping and it's 60Ah, Optima Yellow Top d34 only 190 euro with delivery. I think it's not worth to pay two times more. I'd better invest that on the front speakers

 

If you are going for the Optima the size is D35 not D34 although I am not sure what the difference is. I recommended Optima because I am using one and so far no issues. I researched before choosing Optima and i am happy with it. Like just about anything in life there will be those that swear by it and those that will thrash it. I have done 2 out of the Big 3 (No battery to alternator yet)