350ed

iTrader: (17)

Hi all,
I'm planning on doing an audio install and need some advice. I've never done an install and am not an audiophile. My goal is a improved audio system in a cost efficient manner. I need some component and install help so please just answer any part you're comfortable with.

Headunit (Already have) => Sony MEX-5DI: http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/SONMEX5DI

After reading some posts, I decided to get the following speakers:
Front: Infinity Kappa 63.5i: Ebay $95 + $18 ship
Rear: Infinity Kappa 62.5i: Ebay $72 + $8.5 ship
http://www.stores.ebay.com/wwwikesou...pt4/index.html

I'm planning on a multi-channel amp. I'm thinking about the following but know little:
Power Acoustik LT-720: $115 shipped from Etronics.com - 340W ($112 shipped: Ebay)
Power Acoustik LT-960: $125 shipped from Etronics.com - 400W
Sony XM-460GTX: $120 shipped. 240W.

Any amp advice would be appreciated. You can see the price I'm looking at. Also I don't know if there's any advantage of going much above 300W since that's what the 4 speakers handle.
Also, I don't care for bass so am not considering a sub (I know some are shivering at that statement).


OK, onto installation details. I know from writeups how to remove the panels and such.
Here are some things I think I need and where I think I might get them. Please give advice on whether I need it or something different or a better place/product.

1) Nissan Receiver Metra Wire Harness - $12.99
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...=1&cc=01&avf=Y
$11.50: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...39&PID=1111557


2) Nissan Speaker Harnesses (Only if replace speakers?) - $9.99
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...=1&cc=01&avf=Y
$7.25: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...39&PID=1111557


3) Crimp Tool and Crimp Caps - $2.99 / $12.99
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-irwuOFe...p?I=263RCVRKIT
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...=1&cc=01&avf=Y


4) Nissan 350Z Double DIN Kit - $19.99
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...=1&cc=01&avf=Y


5) S&G Tool Aid 87650 - $8.99 (Don't think I need this tool from the write-ups)
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...=1&cc=01&avf=Y


6) This is where I need the most help. What wires do I need? What gauge for my wattage for amp?
AMP Wiring Kit (To Battery) 250W - $19.99
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...=1&cc=01&avf=Y
$16.16: http://www.computers-and-technology....hp?ProdID=6747

Rockford Fosgate 8 AWG Complete AMp Kit - 500W $33 + $12 ship.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=4950


7) ***Crutchfield Car Stereo Starter Kit - $4.99
http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...=1&cc=01&avf=Y

8) Dynashield Spray: $9 + $7ship (Might help right?)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=14932

9) 1.25" Spacer for front speakers to avoid window. Dunno where to get this. Some say use the stock one.

10) Speaker wires. Gauge/Length needed/type?
$7 x2: http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/ROCRP2163

11) Something else??? (Extra RCA from HU for multi-ch amp? / Stuff to mount amp? / etc)

OK, thanks for reading. I want to do this myself because I enjoy it. I'll install my Radar detector and GTech at the same time too. Please help
Feel free to post thread links too.

I just read a post about forgetting the rears: https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....threadid=55541
Would I just hook up the stock rears to the 4ch amp or not hook up and go 2ch? Not sure how you install the Infinity Perfects with the separate tweeter. I'm going to test with full fade later and see if I like just fronts.

Ed

bastard

First off: Try setting your factory headunit faded all the way forward, and then centered. If you prefer centered, you should get rear speakers and a 4 channel amp. If you like it faded forward, you can just get fronts and a 2 channel amp. It is also possible to use a 2 channel amp and run rear speakers off of the headunit's rear speaker outs.

I'd look into other amp companies than power acoustik and Sony. The Sony for sure is garbage. Not sure about power acoustik, but it's likely (based on price). Pioneer makes a pretty decent 4 channel amp--at least I had good luck with one that I had years ago.

1.) Looks correct
2.) You don't need them if you run a rear amp. The fronts do not accept that kind of plug (I found this out when I ordered a set). If you want to run the rears off the headunit you should get these. Otherwise, you can just run a new length of wire from the amp to the rears--it's really easy to do.
3.) IF you use the crimp stuff, make sure you put a layer of electrical tape over them in case they slip off.
4.) This is correct also.
5.) You don't really need this as long as you're careful. It helps also to pull the panels off on a hot day, since the plastic snap things are softer then.
6.) An amp around 300 watts should be fine with minimum of 8 awg wire. Do not go any smaller. You must fuse the wire within about 12-18" of the battery as well with a fuse rated at the amount (or sum of) the requirements of the components hooked to it (ex: 40 amp and 50 amp reqs = 90 amps). A fuse between the amp and power line is not necessary (the one by the battery will protect the wire). The ground for the amp should be the same size as the hot and grounded within like 18-24" of the amp. If you install the amplifier in the factory sub location, there's a really nice ground on the wall, to the rear of the seat belt. Sand off a small area of paint around the bolt hole for the best ground. A good 8 awg amp kit should be adequate.
7.) You really don't need this. I think crutchfield sends it free anyway.
8.) I'd rethink the spray stuff.
9.) You can make spacers for the fronts either out of the stock speakers (by dremelling out the basket and drilling some holes in them) or out of MDF (medium density fiberboard). Depends if your car is a lease (or if you want to keep the stocks) or not.
10.) 16-18 awg speaker wire should be plenty for 50-75 watts.
11.) IF you decide on a 4 channel amp, get another RCA cable for the rear hookups so you can use the headunit's fader.

OTher stuff: I used some wire loom to protect my runs of RCA and speaker wire. I find that having all the RCA cables loomed together helps immensely when running cables. Especially with those goddamn braided fosgate RCAs. Furthermore, it results in a really clean wiring job and looks professional.

I would also recommend installing the amp (not sure if I said this already) in the factory sub location (behind the driver's seat). This place is almost designed for amps, with good holes in the sheet metal connecting to the passenger side door sill and the transmission tunnel. There's a good ground spot in there as well. The only tricky part is building a shelf/rack for the amplifier to be mounted on.

350ed

iTrader: (17)

After some test listening I prefer the front and rear combo on some music so will go 4ch multi.

2) Got it, they're gone!
3) Will do!
5) Maybe a hair dryer if I run into a tough spot...
6) Got it, 8ga min.
7) I think they only send free if you buy their hu.
8) So the spray stuff serves no benefit? I'm not really rocking the car anyway so probably a waste.
9) I guess I can grab some MDF from Lowes.
10) Got it.
11) Will do.

Where can I pick up the wire looms you mentioned?
What do you folks recommend for the amp install? Just a piece of MDF or such drilled out? Not sure what to use to secure it until I see it.

For amps, here are some other options:
Boss Chaos C600 300W - $130
Crunch Noxx P125.4 500W - $150
Lightning Audio Bolt B2.400.4 300W - $180
US Acoustics USX4085 380W - $175

Pioneer only had a 200W amp I could find (50Wx4x4ohm rms)

Thanks bastard

bastard

You can get wire loom at a place like Pep Boys. That's where I got the stuff I used. My amps are installed on a rack made of aluminum angle iron bent in an L shape, with the long part down.. here's a weak attempt at an ascii drawing of it:

____|
/

The top connects to the tabs hanging in the back of the sub area, and the front is bent down a bit to be bolted to the front rim of the sub area where the factory bose bracket would be bolted. The MDF route is easier, but the aluminum is more conducive to cooling (it's more open) and it's much lighter.

Of those amps, I'd probably go with the US acoustics. I've heard good things about them, but if I were you, I'd look for some reviews on some of their products first.

rplink

There's always eBay! You can get some really good deals on high quality amps that otherwise might be out of your price range. I practically live on that site.

If you want some recommendations, just let me know.........

350ed

iTrader: (17)

rplink, please give some better recommendations! thanks. Just saw a used US Acoustics USX4085 go for $120 shipped on ebay.

bastard, I understand. I think if I route out the middle of the mdf slab it shouldn't be too heavy.

Thanks guys.

jabroney12

If your interested in only powering your front speakers I have a US acoustics 2150 I believe...its giving out 150x2 watt at 2ohm and 100x2 at 4ohm plenty to give your front speakers enough juice. If you do a search I have a custom install of 2 10s under my strut bar, using those very amps.

350ed

iTrader: (17)

jabroney12, I'm going for all 4. Thanks.

rplink

Hey 350ed, give these a look........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=4950

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=4950

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=4950

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=18796

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...&category=4950
You'll be surprised how good this amp sounds...bridge the for 2x50w to drive the front channels and have 2x25 for the rear fills.

Hope that helps!

350ed

iTrader: (17)

rplink,
thanks. Is it acceptable to go with an under-rated amp compared to the 75W speakers? I don't blast the stereo so maybe it's OK.
Thanks.

rplink

No problem. The speakers you have chosen are pretty efficient at 90db referenced at 1W/m. So, they will play plenty loud with a low wattage amp. Besides, so much of the wattage ratings applied to speakers is simply marketing hype.

I've owned the A/D/S 625 and it was driving a set of high-end A/D/S components up front which were great sounding but not very efficient. Excellent loudness, accuracy and clarity.

It would really be to your advantage to go hear the components you plan on buying. See how the perform and sound together. Easier said than done, I know.

My suggestion would be to go with either the Eclipse or Soundstream. Reason being is that both of these amps have an additional set of RCAs outputs on the amp which allow you to connect another amp to them in the future, say for a dedicated subwoofer amp. Added flexiabilty for the future. Also, both are rated around the 50W per channel range which will be more than enough to drive your speakers well.


If you think you may want to add another amp in the future, you could go ahead and run sufficient gauge power leads to your amp board and install a distribution block. That way in the future if you wanted to add another amp for a subwoofer, you wouldn't have to run a new power lead of thicker gauge to handle the additional current draw. Minimal cost as well and saves you from pulling alot of interior plastic panels again.

Also, if your head unit has 3 RCAs outputs, front, rear and sub (sometimes called non-fader) go ahead and run 3 pair of RCAs to the amp board. Insulate the unused pair well and zip tie them out of the way. This will also save you time should you consider upgrading to another amp in the future.

It appears that you've done alot of research. Do yourself a favor and try to find a stereo shop that has the speakers you intend on buying. Audition them. When you do, ask for the tone controls on the headunit to be set flat, at their zero point for both bass, treble and mids if so equipped. Then listen to other speakers in the same price range. Make sure you're happy with your selection If they don't sound good on the board, then they won't sound good in your doors despite what the salesman might try to convince you of.

Speakers by far have the greatest impact on the sound of the audio system, in my opinion. So find a pair you like and enjoy.

Man, got on the soap box there, didn't I?

Good luck and have fun.

350ed

iTrader: (17)

You rock man, thanks!