Newb With Audio, Need HELP!
11-21-2013, 02:11 PM
#1
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Newb With Audio, Need HELP!
Hello I just ordered some audio stuff to replace my OEM Speakers- they sound like trash bags....
350z Dual 10" Sub Box
two 10" Kickers C10 4ohm 300W Peak 150W Rms
Two 6.5" Kickers CS65 4ohm 300W Peak 100W Rms
AMP: Pioneer GM-D8604 600Rms Class FM 4 Channel
Head Unit: Pioneer FH-X700BT
----
What other stuff Do I need? Like accessories? Because Once everything gets here, I would like to just install it.
And how do you think of the setup? Decent?
Sorry for the newb post but anyhelp is needed, first time doing this!
I've been searching google and yahoo. But still is quite a bit confuse.
350z Dual 10" Sub Box
two 10" Kickers C10 4ohm 300W Peak 150W Rms
Two 6.5" Kickers CS65 4ohm 300W Peak 100W Rms
AMP: Pioneer GM-D8604 600Rms Class FM 4 Channel
Head Unit: Pioneer FH-X700BT
----
What other stuff Do I need? Like accessories? Because Once everything gets here, I would like to just install it.
And how do you think of the setup? Decent?
Sorry for the newb post but anyhelp is needed, first time doing this!
I've been searching google and yahoo. But still is quite a bit confuse.
11-21-2013, 02:41 PM
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Wiring...
RCA's,4 ga. power and ground and some decent speaker wires. Dont skimp on this stuff it does make a difference. I have more invested in wiring than most have in their whole system.
RCA's,4 ga. power and ground and some decent speaker wires. Dont skimp on this stuff it does make a difference. I have more invested in wiring than most have in their whole system.
11-21-2013, 02:42 PM
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How much do you think it'll cause me? An arm and a toe? lol I've already exceeded my limit :/
11-21-2013, 03:07 PM
#5
RCA's are where you can kinda skimp. As long as they are twisted pairs you're good. Scosche from walmart works just fine.
I'd look at Shok Industries or Sky High car audio for wire. They have some great stuff.
To wire your speakers I'd go with 14 gauge. 16 would probably work but I don't like using that for very long runs.
You also need a dash kit and wiring adapter for the head unit.
Might also look into some speaker adapters for the door. I didn't know they made them and had to make 1" spacer rings for my mids because the window would hit the magnet when you rolled it down.
I'd look at Shok Industries or Sky High car audio for wire. They have some great stuff.
To wire your speakers I'd go with 14 gauge. 16 would probably work but I don't like using that for very long runs.
You also need a dash kit and wiring adapter for the head unit.
Might also look into some speaker adapters for the door. I didn't know they made them and had to make 1" spacer rings for my mids because the window would hit the magnet when you rolled it down.
11-21-2013, 03:37 PM
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RCA's are where you can kinda skimp. As long as they are twisted pairs you're good. Scosche from walmart works just fine.
I'd look at Shok Industries or Sky High car audio for wire. They have some great stuff.
To wire your speakers I'd go with 14 gauge. 16 would probably work but I don't like using that for very long runs.
You also need a dash kit and wiring adapter for the head unit.
Might also look into some speaker adapters for the door. I didn't know they made them and had to make 1" spacer rings for my mids because the window would hit the magnet when you rolled it down.
I'd look at Shok Industries or Sky High car audio for wire. They have some great stuff.
To wire your speakers I'd go with 14 gauge. 16 would probably work but I don't like using that for very long runs.
You also need a dash kit and wiring adapter for the head unit.
Might also look into some speaker adapters for the door. I didn't know they made them and had to make 1" spacer rings for my mids because the window would hit the magnet when you rolled it down.
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11-21-2013, 04:14 PM
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RCA's are where you can kinda skimp. As long as they are twisted pairs you're good. Scosche from walmart works just fine.
I'd look at Shok Industries or Sky High car audio for wire. They have some great stuff.
To wire your speakers I'd go with 14 gauge. 16 would probably work but I don't like using that for very long runs.
You also need a dash kit and wiring adapter for the head unit.
Might also look into some speaker adapters for the door. I didn't know they made them and had to make 1" spacer rings for my mids because the window would hit the magnet when you rolled it down.
I'd look at Shok Industries or Sky High car audio for wire. They have some great stuff.
To wire your speakers I'd go with 14 gauge. 16 would probably work but I don't like using that for very long runs.
You also need a dash kit and wiring adapter for the head unit.
Might also look into some speaker adapters for the door. I didn't know they made them and had to make 1" spacer rings for my mids because the window would hit the magnet when you rolled it down.
11-21-2013, 04:53 PM
#9
I couldn't tell you about integrating into it. I ripped all of it out and ran all new stuff.
I originally tried to use the stock wiring but I couldn't find the correct wires in the harness. Plus they were way too small. I ended up running 2 runs of 14awg to each door to run active.
This is one of those things that could go either way for me. I know people say all RCAs are the same but if you're putting 1000.00 or more in a system why not just spend a little more on cabling?? Does it make a difference, probably not but just a little piece of mind knowing I'm using quality cables.
I've used a bunch of different price range RCA's and I could never tell the difference. The non twisted ones are more susceptible to picking up interference though.
11-21-2013, 06:07 PM
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I'm guessing you have bose?
I couldn't tell you about integrating into it. I ripped all of it out and ran all new stuff.
I originally tried to use the stock wiring but I couldn't find the correct wires in the harness. Plus they were way too small. I ended up running 2 runs of 14awg to each door to run active.
I've used a bunch of different price range RCA's and I could never tell the difference. The non twisted ones are more susceptible to picking up interference though.
I couldn't tell you about integrating into it. I ripped all of it out and ran all new stuff.
I originally tried to use the stock wiring but I couldn't find the correct wires in the harness. Plus they were way too small. I ended up running 2 runs of 14awg to each door to run active.
I've used a bunch of different price range RCA's and I could never tell the difference. The non twisted ones are more susceptible to picking up interference though.
But a fellow of mine helped me out with the RCA and stuff. I will be needing 2 RCA because I have 2 RCA Output in the back of my head unit. 1 Will be for the front speakers and 1 will be for the SUB.
The question I am left is, how do I wire the speaker wires to the AMP.. it looks quite confusing.
11-21-2013, 06:50 PM
#11
Hook one set to the front output on the head and the other to the sub output.
Then the fronts will hook to channel A, then the sub will hook to channel B inputs on the amp.
Hook the door speakers up to channels A, left and right respectively on the output side.
Then wire the subs together in parallel, and hook it to channel B bridged. Hook the negative wire to the right negative (-) and the positive wire to the right positive (+).
Everything is marked fairly well on the amp if it's the same one I'm looking at.
Then you will need to set your gains. I'll get into that later if you need help.
Then the fronts will hook to channel A, then the sub will hook to channel B inputs on the amp.
Hook the door speakers up to channels A, left and right respectively on the output side.
Then wire the subs together in parallel, and hook it to channel B bridged. Hook the negative wire to the right negative (-) and the positive wire to the right positive (+).
Everything is marked fairly well on the amp if it's the same one I'm looking at.
Then you will need to set your gains. I'll get into that later if you need help.
11-21-2013, 07:06 PM
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Hook one set to the front output on the head and the other to the sub output.
Then the fronts will hook to channel A, then the sub will hook to channel B inputs on the amp.
Hook the door speakers up to channels A, left and right respectively on the output side.
Then wire the subs together in parallel, and hook it to channel B bridged. Hook the negative wire to the right negative (-) and the positive wire to the right positive (+).
Everything is marked fairly well on the amp if it's the same one I'm looking at.
Then you will need to set your gains. I'll get into that later if you need help.
Then the fronts will hook to channel A, then the sub will hook to channel B inputs on the amp.
Hook the door speakers up to channels A, left and right respectively on the output side.
Then wire the subs together in parallel, and hook it to channel B bridged. Hook the negative wire to the right negative (-) and the positive wire to the right positive (+).
Everything is marked fairly well on the amp if it's the same one I'm looking at.
Then you will need to set your gains. I'll get into that later if you need help.
FrontRight Positive, FrontRight Negative, FrontLeft Positive, FrontLeft Negative. Sub Negative, Sub positive.
Which one goes to which channel and crap. :/ again I am sorry for being such a Newb! But i'm willing to learn from you guys.
11-21-2013, 07:13 PM
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Hook one set to the front output on the head and the other to the sub output.
Then the fronts will hook to channel A, then the sub will hook to channel B inputs on the amp.
Hook the door speakers up to channels A, left and right respectively on the output side.
Then wire the subs together in parallel, and hook it to channel B bridged. Hook the negative wire to the right negative (-) and the positive wire to the right positive (+).
Everything is marked fairly well on the amp if it's the same one I'm looking at.
Then you will need to set your gains. I'll get into that later if you need help.
Then the fronts will hook to channel A, then the sub will hook to channel B inputs on the amp.
Hook the door speakers up to channels A, left and right respectively on the output side.
Then wire the subs together in parallel, and hook it to channel B bridged. Hook the negative wire to the right negative (-) and the positive wire to the right positive (+).
Everything is marked fairly well on the amp if it's the same one I'm looking at.
Then you will need to set your gains. I'll get into that later if you need help.
And I think i'ma understanding it,
For ex: AL+ AL-
Channel A Left Speaker Positive, and Channel A Left Speaker Negative
11-21-2013, 07:35 PM
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Hook one set to the front output on the head and the other to the sub output.
Then the fronts will hook to channel A, then the sub will hook to channel B inputs on the amp.
Hook the door speakers up to channels A, left and right respectively on the output side.
Then wire the subs together in parallel, and hook it to channel B bridged. Hook the negative wire to the right negative (-) and the positive wire to the right positive (+).
Everything is marked fairly well on the amp if it's the same one I'm looking at.
Then you will need to set your gains. I'll get into that later if you need help.
Then the fronts will hook to channel A, then the sub will hook to channel B inputs on the amp.
Hook the door speakers up to channels A, left and right respectively on the output side.
Then wire the subs together in parallel, and hook it to channel B bridged. Hook the negative wire to the right negative (-) and the positive wire to the right positive (+).
Everything is marked fairly well on the amp if it's the same one I'm looking at.
Then you will need to set your gains. I'll get into that later if you need help.
Correct me if I'm WRONG please!
11-21-2013, 07:42 PM
#16
Ah ****, the site I was looking at earlier listed the specs wrong......
With the subs in parallel you will be running too low of an ohm load to hook it up bridged.
Unless they are 2 ohm subs wired in series in the box to provide a 4 ohm load at the terminal since you said it only has one terminal to hook wires to on the box.
Do you have a DVOM / DMM / ohm meter / multi meter?
If they are wired to 2 ohms at the box you're going to have to be very careful so you don't blow anything.
With the subs in parallel you will be running too low of an ohm load to hook it up bridged.
Unless they are 2 ohm subs wired in series in the box to provide a 4 ohm load at the terminal since you said it only has one terminal to hook wires to on the box.
Do you have a DVOM / DMM / ohm meter / multi meter?
If they are wired to 2 ohms at the box you're going to have to be very careful so you don't blow anything.
11-21-2013, 07:54 PM
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Ah ****, the site I was looking at earlier listed the specs wrong......
With the subs in parallel you will be running too low of an ohm load to hook it up bridged.
Unless they are 2 ohm subs wired in series in the box to provide a 4 ohm load at the terminal since you said it only has one terminal to hook wires to on the box.
Do you have a DVOM / DMM / ohm meter / multi meter?
If they are wired to 2 ohms at the box you're going to have to be very careful so you don't blow anything.
With the subs in parallel you will be running too low of an ohm load to hook it up bridged.
Unless they are 2 ohm subs wired in series in the box to provide a 4 ohm load at the terminal since you said it only has one terminal to hook wires to on the box.
Do you have a DVOM / DMM / ohm meter / multi meter?
If they are wired to 2 ohms at the box you're going to have to be very careful so you don't blow anything.
And Yes I do have the meter thing, but I don't know how to use it. It's my Pap's tool.
Okay So after doing some more search and observing things. I found out that there's 2 Terminal. and the Sub are 4ohms.
So eveyrthing should be fine right?
And I'm guessing the sub would wired up the same way as I did to channel A. but in Channel B this time. I will make a diagram. and Post it on here a few mins for you to Check.
Last edited by Bao Tran; 11-21-2013 at 08:17 PM.
11-21-2013, 08:42 PM
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You are right, I was lookin at the wrong model but it should be the same. On the website, it said the all the speakers are 4ohm.
And Yes I do have the meter thing, but I don't know how to use it. It's my Pap's tool.
Okay So after doing some more search and observing things. I found out that there's 2 Terminal. and the Sub are 4ohms.
So eveyrthing should be fine right?
And I'm guessing the sub would wired up the same way as I did to channel A. but in Channel B this time. I will make a diagram. and Post it on here a few mins for you to Check.
And Yes I do have the meter thing, but I don't know how to use it. It's my Pap's tool.
Okay So after doing some more search and observing things. I found out that there's 2 Terminal. and the Sub are 4ohms.
So eveyrthing should be fine right?
And I'm guessing the sub would wired up the same way as I did to channel A. but in Channel B this time. I will make a diagram. and Post it on here a few mins for you to Check.
its a 600rms 4Channel AMP
GM Digital Series 4-Channel Class D Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 100 watts x 4 chan.
2 ohms: 150 watts x 4 chan.
1 ohm: 125 watts x 4 chan.
Bridged, 4 ohms: 300 watts x 2 chan.
I was thinking of bridge my sub, but that might cause it to blow? what do you think?
Sub Spec: 300W Peak 150W Rms
Front Speaker Spec: 300W Peak 100W Rms
11-22-2013, 07:32 AM
#19
Yes that's how it would be wired.
You COULD bridge them but I wouldn't suggest it. It would be easier that way and you'd get more power but it'd be running the amp below it's rated load and I don't know how durable those amps are and I don't know your self control with the volume ****. Experienced car audio guys will wire well below the rated loads but they have powerful enough electrical to support it.
You'll wanna set the gain for set A and B for 20v each. Use a 1000hz tone for the doors and a 40 or 50hz tone for the sub.
You COULD bridge them but I wouldn't suggest it. It would be easier that way and you'd get more power but it'd be running the amp below it's rated load and I don't know how durable those amps are and I don't know your self control with the volume ****. Experienced car audio guys will wire well below the rated loads but they have powerful enough electrical to support it.
You'll wanna set the gain for set A and B for 20v each. Use a 1000hz tone for the doors and a 40 or 50hz tone for the sub.
11-22-2013, 08:58 AM
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Are the subs dual or single voice coils? If they are single you wont want to bridge them. If they are dual hook them up like this and bridge them.
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...2&I=42#results
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...2&I=42#results