Hi,
I’mplanning to install dashcam in my 350Z. I want to guide the wiring under rooflining, pillars and dash to cigarette lighter socket.
Did anyonesplice wiring to CL socket? I’m wondering if simply splitting lighter wires intwo (one to socket, one to dashcam charger) is going to do the job and if it’ssafe? I believe there must be a breaker in 12v CL line already so I guess itwon’t be necessary to install second circuit breaker.

 

It should be fine if you're hardwiring up something like a dashcam that has a low amperage draw by tapping into the cigarette lighter socket. However, DO install an in-line fuse near the junction with the hot wire. It's always better to be safe than sorry, you know? Especially with all the crappy wiring insulation you find now 'days.

 

I agree with Zak. You can split the wire and send power to the camera.

Here is the caveat: If the camera has an adapter that you connect to a power plug (i.e., the “cigar lighter you mention), you must maintain this adapter when “hard wiring” the camera. Here is why: The adapter conditions the power and sets the correct voltage. Your car is delivering 12 volts, but your device (the camera in this case) might be anything from 9 to 12 volts. The device’s adapter controls this, and that is why you want to include the adapter in the power line.

And as Zak mentions, if there is an inline fuse, be certain you include this as well in the wiring.
--Spike

 

Why not go to the fuse box?

 

Ofcourse I'll include adapter. It would be extra dumb to not include it Okay, I'll install a fuse in connection before adapter. I also want to permanently connect a tablet where nav is supposed to be and maybe a GPS tracker/alarm. I've read that cigarette lighter has an amperage of 15A so I guess that 1A from cam and 2A from table and 1A from gps won't strain the installation too much or am I wrong? Also, I want to change my battery to something light-weight. What is the optimal Ah/CC to keep weight at minimum having all these additonal electric stuff? Ofcourse I won't use any electronics while car is off.

 

Why not just go to the interior fuse box?

Items needed: USB cable (2 meters long), 12v to USB 5v adapter, fuse piggyback

- Send a USB cable through the headliner (2 meter cable is long enough), down the pillar, and there's a hole in the dash where you can drop the cable straight to the fusebox.

- Connect the usb cable to a 12v to USB 5v adapter (you can get these for $2-$3 online), connect that adapter to a fuse piggyback.

- Connect the piggyback fuse to a fuse location that gets power when the car is turned on.

 

Bender's solution works great too. I used an "Add A Circuit" fuse adapter on a keyed power port I installed in the glove box and it works great. I just tapped into the front power port with an inline fuse to hard wire my Garmin Navigation Unit that's mounted in the front cubby. As long as you do a good job with your connections (I soldered my connections instead of crimping due to so-so results I've had with crimp connectors in the past). That being said, as long as you use good wire and keep your fuses close to where the connect to the hot lead, then you're in good shape. Make sure you connect your grounds to an appropriate place as well.