Has anyone installed a 10" sub on a non-touring Z in the space where the bose 10" goes in the touring modles?

 

I did it - put in an Infinity Perfect 10vq. Sounds great and looks stock.

 

Certainly did. I put in a JL Audio IB10 and it sounds great! (Too bad they discontinued that model sub last year...)

 

What did you use to seal it off? ....any other tips?

 

Believe it or not, I used a can of Expanding Foam Insulation you can find at any hardware store. I was sure I go the flexable kind. It sprays in nice and easy, dries pretty fast and gets everything air tight without the hassle of rolling all the Dynamat in.

It's cheap too. I think I paid $6.59 for the can I used.

 

You could always go with a box like this instead. Can't be seen when the trunk is closed unless you know its there...

 

Have you seen the JL Audio "Stealth" box for the 350Z. It's pretty sweet...I think it cost around 5-600 bucks though, too much money for a box....at least for me.

 

Saw it...didn;t like it. I like my subs to go BOOM. Just couldn't get the right sound from 10s. I did try but just wasn't enough

 

My Z's the only car I have....I have to have a little bit of "room" in my car for things. lol

 

Do you mean you used the foam the compartment behind the speaker? That worked? I was just in HomeDepot yesturday and while waiting in line saw that as wondered if would have worked.

I installed a 10" Alpine Type-R and put the amp under the glove box space. I used dynomat to seal the space behind the speaker but the problem I ran into is that the Alpine 10" is just a shade smaller than the hole and the holes for the screws didn't line up. I ended up using 3 of the original holes from the bracket and jimmy-rigging a tisght seal with the 3 other holes on the sides byt because of where the top and bottom of the spreaker ended up I couldn't drill through the metal and now I am getting a slight rattle. I am waiting to recieve the speaker cover piece on Tuesday because my theory is that the rattling is coming from the plastic cover wich is situated above the speaker and part od the coverin for the stock rear speakers. I hope once I get that in there it should be alright. If not I am going to have cut out a round piece of wood that I can attache to the metal bracket and then the speaker to the wood to create the seal.

Has anyone who installed a 10" subwoofer using the bracket from the 10" that comes with the bose , had any probles with the top of the speaker not fitting flush?

Any other suggestion to resolving this would be greatly appreciated.

 

I installed a JL 10 in the sub space of a non touring Z. Sounds awesome and hits hard when needed.

 

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You had a box made to fit the space, it was cool. What I am reffering to is actually utilizing the Nissan bracket for your speaker.

Basically the question is what 10" speaker is the exact same size as the bose subwoofer, because my Alpine Type-R is not.

 

Cool, I gotcha.

 

By the way I was wondering where you got your screen or dvd player. (From the other thread). I have a stock nav system and am forced to install a second dvd player and you got it for such a good deal.

 

It sounds GREAT to me. I haven't compared it to the same set up with Dynamat, but the foam sure sealed the area off real well. It was REAL easy to spray it in the corners too, no hassle trying to roll all the Dynamat into the corners and such.

 

For those who have installed an aftermarket sub-woofer in the place where the Bose one is suppose to be, did your speaker screw in flush.

My problem is that with the Alpine Type-R I can't seem to get the speaker to attach flush to the nissan bracket (see below).

So if anyone can either suggest something I can use to seal the speaker to this bracket or how any of you installed a speaker in this location without the bracket or without building a box.

Thanks

 

I don't have pictures and don't know how well I can describe it, but I'll try. I put an Infinity Perfect 10vq in the stock location. I put Dynamat everywhere I could behind it. It is not perfectly sealed (no way to seal around seatbelt hole). For mounting the speaker to the bracket, I centered the speaker in the hole, marked the screwholes thru the speaker and then used a Dremel tool to grind them out to make notches. Then, I just used some bolts, nuts and washers to screw the speaker to the bracket (with Infinity supplied foam strip between speaker and bracket). Finally, I just put Dynamat over the rest of the bracket and put it in. The sub sounds great.

BTW, when searching for subwoofers, I didn't go with the Alpine sub because it wasn't described as free-air capable and I knew that I couldn't get a completely closed chamber behind the speaker. I don't know enough about audio to know if free-air vs. non free-air makes a difference, but I was told that it would make a difference.

 

Quote:

For those who have installed an aftermarket sub-woofer in the place where the Bose one is suppose to be, did your speaker screw in flush.

I installed 2 JL Audio 10's in the factory location and where my glove box used to be. They are 10w3v2's. They didn't fit perfectly, so I made due. I used 3 of the holes from one side, then went to HomeDepot and bought some brackts. I bent the brackets so that one end would attach to the sub and the other to the hole on the mounting plate. There left about a 1 centimeter space open, where I promptly dynomatted over with it and then used some dynomat tape to ensure the enclosure was tight. No rattles and they both hit really hard.

As far as the dynomat vs foam goes...my buddy used the foam and his doesn't sound nearly as good as mine does. Same subs, but he didn't dynomat the enclosure. This is not to say that those people who foamed it have horrible sounding subs, but just that my buddies doens't sound as good. Oh, and dont' buy dynomat. What a waste of money. All you are paying for is the name. Call any local roofing supply place and ask them for pricing on peal and seal. I got a 34 ft by 12" roll for $25.

 

This is exactly what I was asking. I did the same but how did you secure the top and bottom of the speaker. Because of the ridge on top I couldn't seem to drill through it.

By the way after spending $70+ on 2 - 4 square foot pieces of dynomat I am going to try calling around for peal and seal.

 

got ya...i didnt' actually attach the top and bottom to the mouting plate. If you look closing in the picture, I tried to drill holes up there, but couldn't get them to work. So I mounted each sub with a total of 6 screws and brackets. If you notice in the picture, you don't see any of these because i did the mounting behind the plate. the brackets from HomDepot are farily easy to bend (some pliers and neednose will do the trick) and then just finding screws with washers and nuts that will fit all the holes.

Recap. I used 3 factory holes on one side and then bought brackets to mount the holes from the sub to the plate on the other. I bent the bracket a little on the top and bottom and put some dynomat (peal and seal) on there to eliminate the possiblity of any rattling, but didn't actually use any screws in the top and bottom locations. I have had no problems.

Does that explain it enough?