I wasn't impressed with the Bose stereo in my Touring Z to start with especially the volume level control that made the bass fluxuate a lot. I got the fix done and now it seems I have hardly ANY bass at all! It's up to +5 and it sounds like its at -2 or something...it sucks.

What do I need to put some bass in my Z. I don't want the whole neighborhood to hear me coming...just enough inside to make it sound sweet....if the neighbors must hear me coming, so be it.

Can this be achieved keeping the stock bose head unit or do I need a new receiver? Is the 10" sub behind the drivers seat good enough to keep and just get a new amp?

Please help...I'm a newb at this. I'm trying to keep cost at a minimum. I'm also trying to find a stereo that fills up the stock opening...1.5 din? 2 din?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

I say ditch the head unit, get a new double din, 5 channel amp, new speakers and small sub. But, that's jsut me; I don't see much point in spending the money to just to get it to sound a little better.

 

well ANYTHING is better then what it sounds like now. I just don't want to have to put any subs in the back...I'm wondering if the 10" behind the seat will be good enough to put out some good bass with a new head unit and a nice amp.

 

I want to do the same thing as you, and have read a lot of threads on stereos. I also dont want a box in the back. From what I've read, putting a new sub in the factory location should give you the sound you are looking for, not crazy bass, but a nice clean thump. The sub of choice is JL, or a lot of people have put in an infinity basslink, which is a sub with an amp built in. For the stock location, you can either seal if off with great stuff, then dynamat the whole enclosure, or get a custom box built for that location. I dont know if you can use the bose deck with another amp/sub combo....can anyone else help out with that?
--Deven

 

I purchased my Z with a Basic stereo, that way I didnt spend any extra cash on factory crap.

then today I will order a Alpine multichanel 400W amp, Alpine Type R speakers for the front and a 10" punch s/coil sub.

Now I just have to figure our a good install for it...
The alpine gear was based on a decent entry/mid level clean sound. I am sure there are better speakers such as JL and focal but the price I got on my stuff was good.

 

Well I did the sub in the stock location thinking it would be cheeper LOL After it was all done I could have spent 100 bucks more and got a custon frber glass box. But my sub does sound good and Looks clean.

Daynomat 150
Tape and fiberglass 60
Speaker cover 12 ( Nissan Parts )
Sub and Amp 250
Install 60 ( Amp only) ( Tweeter )
Polyfill 5 ( Rich Sound a must)

Total 477 bucks

Just to let you know I like Rock and Jazz
any Rap is boomy and could sound better.

Hope it helps

Also I have mb Quart and a no bose HU

 

LOL, have you popped open the sub cover and see what Blose calls a subwoofer?!? I hope you're not thinking about keeping any of the Blose audio. I mean anything.

But if all you want is more boom...
Sub in stock location (must seal off the sub area or build custom box inside) + amp. You can put the amp under one of the seats.

Or

External sub 10" with amp in the stock sub location. By doing this, you can put the sub between the rear speaker bridge and strut/brace bar. By pointing the sub towards the rear, you should be able to get better sound than if it were in the stock location.

Just my .02 cents.

 

want to buy my 10" JL V2

custom box and panel

PM me

yes u can even add some base to the Bose system


pix below is JL logo on top of panel

 

from inside

 

from rear, plenty of room in trunk

 

I would recommend building a custom box inside there instead of just dynamatting/great stuffing the entire sub area. The sound will be much more accurate and controlled, and you won't have to peel up all that dynamat to get to the sending unit for the fuel tank (or is that the fuel pump?) if something should go wrong.

In my setup, I have a sub under the strut tower bar. It doesn't take up any truly usable space, but it does take some. I honestly think the stock sub area is best used for hiding amps.

Anyway, you don't want that so, here's your options:

A.) Freeair sub in stock location:
Pros: Probably cheaper. Easier to do. Lighter.
Cons: Sound quality of freeairs leaves much to be desired. Covering the fuel pump or sending unit access point with dynamat. Dynamatting that area would be a real bastard.


B.) Small box 10" or pair of 8"s in enclosure in stock location:
Pros: Better sound quality. Does not require dynamat over sending unit.
Cons: More expensive. Harder to build. Not as space-efficient (you'd lose some box volume due to the shape of that area).

If you wish to keep the bose, you would have to patch in some line level converters into the rear speaker outputs and patch those into an amp to power the sub. The amp would have to go either inside/under the glovebox or maybe under a seat, if it's small enough (unlikely). Note that line level converters are not very good quality, as they compound distortion: The headunit amplifies the signal, distorting it. The converters step it back down to line-level, distorting it. Then the new amp amplifies it back up again, distorting it some more. The problem is that each level of distortion distorts the previous distortion as well, so the signal really gets distorted. (That's a lot of "distortions" for one paragraph).

The best possible (but still fairly cheap) solution is to get a new headunit, speakers, sub, and a sub amp. Use the new headunit to power the full range speakers (6.5"s) and an amp to run the sub, installed in a sealed enclosure inside the stock area.