Stock Non-Bose Head Unit/stock Speakers: How will Infinity BassLink sound with OEM
Originally posted by rclab1
anyone had this plain jane set up?
how'd it sound?
anyone had this plain jane set up?
how'd it sound?
Originally posted by Conceyted
dont you need an rca outlet coming out of the headunit to install the basslink?
dont you need an rca outlet coming out of the headunit to install the basslink?
newmexicoZ33,
How would you rate the installation? I like to do this myself. In the past (years ago-hehe), I would do my own installation, but I am not sure now.
I don't feel good about letting other do my installation. What do I need to do the installation?
Thanks,
Tony
How would you rate the installation? I like to do this myself. In the past (years ago-hehe), I would do my own installation, but I am not sure now.
I don't feel good about letting other do my installation. What do I need to do the installation?
Thanks,
Tony
Originally posted by newmexicoZ33
...nope. I have this settup. I'm not a big audio guy, and just needed a little more "bump" for my Trance, so I installed a Basslink. As many people have said before, for the money, you can't beat the Basslink. Now since I have the stock components I have the 'Gain' level quite low on the Basslink, as well as the actual 'Base' (both are only up to about a 1/3) so that I can still clearly hear the 'highs'. As far as Base goes though, there's more a lot more than enough.
...nope. I have this settup. I'm not a big audio guy, and just needed a little more "bump" for my Trance, so I installed a Basslink. As many people have said before, for the money, you can't beat the Basslink. Now since I have the stock components I have the 'Gain' level quite low on the Basslink, as well as the actual 'Base' (both are only up to about a 1/3) so that I can still clearly hear the 'highs'. As far as Base goes though, there's more a lot more than enough.
Amazingly enough the install was not as bad as I thought it would be. At first I was a little hesitant because of all the plastic pannels in the rear that need to be removed, but they all actually come out fairly easy, you just need to be careful and patient. There is a 'sticky' thread at the top of this forum for "how-to's". In there you can find all the info you need to remove pannels, run power, tap into speakers, etc.
What you basically need to do is run power from the battery to wherever you want to place your basslink (the only two places I've seen are in the trunk and in the glove box behind the passanger seat). I just have mine laying down flat on its stands in the trunk so I ran the power wire through the firewall, down the side-panels through the back pannels and out through opennings in the carpet. You will need to pick a spot from the chassis to run your ground-wire to, or you can even run a ground from the engine bay with the power wire. I just used the bolt in the floor of the rear hatch that is supposed to be used for child seat restraint. You also need run wires form the basslink that tap into the factory speaker wires (again the colors can be found in the "how-to" sticky thread). I used 3M splicing adaptors so that you don't have to cut the actual wires. Finally, for your remote on/off signal you can tap into the 12V power outlet wire (notice that it goes on/off at the same time as the head-unit). Now, all of the lines you need to tap into can also be accessed directly behind the Head-Unit, but doing it this way, you do not have to remove the front-center console, head unit, etc.
The process itself is not that difficult, but it is a little "scary" taking apart the pieces of a new car. Then again, nobody will take as much care with the car as you, which was a major factor for me. I would recommend reading all of the different parts in the "How-to" thread (pretty much all of them have pictures so you can see exactly what needs to be done), and afterwards if you feel comfortable, then go for it. If you choose to do it and have any specific questions/problems I'll be more than glad to help with whatever I can. Also it helps if you can talk a buddy into helping you. Taking your time, it should only take a few hours, so just set aside a weekend morning or afternoon.
Also, if you do choose to intall the BAsslink yourself I would recommend going to Wal-mart if you don't already have all of the necessary wiring components. They sell these pre-packaged universal stereo wiring kits that come with pretty nice stereo-gauge wire for your power (they have them in various sizes for various watt ratings), miscellaneous wire, fuse, wire wrap, etc. Basically everything you'll need for the install already in one package and about as cheap as if you buy all the stuff separately (I think mine cost only about $12). You can also pick up a pack of the 3M brand splicing adaptors so you don't have to cut any wires (they are only like $2).
Unfortunately I don't have any pics, and I don't own a digi-cam, but I actually just ended up placing the basslink in the trunk compartment, laying face down on the mounting stands/brackets that come with the basslink. I was originally going to drill screws through the spare tire cover to hold the legs of the brackets, but I actually ended up just putting sticky velcro cutouts on the bottom of the bracket legs (to kind of stick to my trunk mat) and I have never had the basslink move even under pretty fast cornering.
Hope this helps.
What you basically need to do is run power from the battery to wherever you want to place your basslink (the only two places I've seen are in the trunk and in the glove box behind the passanger seat). I just have mine laying down flat on its stands in the trunk so I ran the power wire through the firewall, down the side-panels through the back pannels and out through opennings in the carpet. You will need to pick a spot from the chassis to run your ground-wire to, or you can even run a ground from the engine bay with the power wire. I just used the bolt in the floor of the rear hatch that is supposed to be used for child seat restraint. You also need run wires form the basslink that tap into the factory speaker wires (again the colors can be found in the "how-to" sticky thread). I used 3M splicing adaptors so that you don't have to cut the actual wires. Finally, for your remote on/off signal you can tap into the 12V power outlet wire (notice that it goes on/off at the same time as the head-unit). Now, all of the lines you need to tap into can also be accessed directly behind the Head-Unit, but doing it this way, you do not have to remove the front-center console, head unit, etc.
The process itself is not that difficult, but it is a little "scary" taking apart the pieces of a new car. Then again, nobody will take as much care with the car as you, which was a major factor for me. I would recommend reading all of the different parts in the "How-to" thread (pretty much all of them have pictures so you can see exactly what needs to be done), and afterwards if you feel comfortable, then go for it. If you choose to do it and have any specific questions/problems I'll be more than glad to help with whatever I can. Also it helps if you can talk a buddy into helping you. Taking your time, it should only take a few hours, so just set aside a weekend morning or afternoon.
Also, if you do choose to intall the BAsslink yourself I would recommend going to Wal-mart if you don't already have all of the necessary wiring components. They sell these pre-packaged universal stereo wiring kits that come with pretty nice stereo-gauge wire for your power (they have them in various sizes for various watt ratings), miscellaneous wire, fuse, wire wrap, etc. Basically everything you'll need for the install already in one package and about as cheap as if you buy all the stuff separately (I think mine cost only about $12). You can also pick up a pack of the 3M brand splicing adaptors so you don't have to cut any wires (they are only like $2).
Unfortunately I don't have any pics, and I don't own a digi-cam, but I actually just ended up placing the basslink in the trunk compartment, laying face down on the mounting stands/brackets that come with the basslink. I was originally going to drill screws through the spare tire cover to hold the legs of the brackets, but I actually ended up just putting sticky velcro cutouts on the bottom of the bracket legs (to kind of stick to my trunk mat) and I have never had the basslink move even under pretty fast cornering.
Hope this helps.
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