schindem

Step 1...

Well, I started at about 4:30pm and finished at about 9:00pm. Took a few breaks but not for very long. A little longer than expected since this is my first time breaking in to the car.

As I promised- step by step instructions with pics...

Door from the beginning, lift up on the cover to the left nearest to the door. Lift up, very easy to take off.

Door Panel Before

Door Panel Cover Before

Door Panel Lift


Step 2...

Next, remove switch panel.

1 screw, pulls out easy.

Inside Handle


Step 3...

Remove the 2 screws after taking off the switch panel.

Remove 2 Screws


Use a flathead to remove the wires from panel.

Clips Removed


Step 4...

Next remove the cover underneath the door handle, very easy, but use something thin like a butterknife to get it started... Then remove the screw located behind the handle, careful!- Don't lose it!

Door Handle Cover

Cover Removed

Screw Behind Handle


Step 5...

Remove door panel by carefully pulling out all around edges to free tabs...

Then lift up on panel to free it from the door. Lay down to the side, remember to be very careful not to scratch, very easy to scratch this material on the doors...

View Inside Door


Step 6...

Notice the window that would hit speakers with large drivers...

I needed to use a spacer to separate to avoid the window hitting my speaker when rolled down.

Spacer can be purchase at a stereo shop, need to be 1" for the 6.5" speaker. I made my own easily as you can see, my shop didn't have any in stock and I couldn't wait!

I just used some rubber plumbing that was a perfect fit to my speakers. The cost of spacers from a stereo shop would be 8-10.00, not very much, if I were you I would take the time to find some.

Window Contact Point

Do It Yourself Spacers

1" Spacers


Step 7...

These are the screws/ washers and clip to hold speakers in place.

Sizewise, they were 3 inches and 2 inches long, to avoid hitting the window on the closest side. Splice wires together, red positive and blue negative for both doors.

View of Screws Used

Measure of Screws Used

Screws in Door


Step 8...

This is the speaker installed!!! Good to go, now put everything back the way you found it.

Notice if you don't have a spacer that is narrow enough, the speaker cover will come off... ooops.

Good to know though, you can now see how crappy these Track speakers are- I've seen better at Walmart for $10.00!!! Made by Clarion, sound like ***, $35,000 and this is what we get???

Go figure, sounds much better!

New Speaker in Door

Speaker View

Speaker Cover Off...

Clarion Front

Clarion Rear


Step 9...

Now for the passenger door, a few differences, so pay attention...

Remove the brushed alum decor, but be careful pull out from the top with butterknife, it will pop out at the bottom...

Remove the two screws located deep inside this handle.


Remove Passenger Handle Cover...

Remove 2 Screws in Handle


Step 10...

Remove blank panel and switch panel, and the two screws that are located under the switch panel...

Remove Switch Panel


Step 11...

Remove cover under door handle, and the screw deep behind.

Lift off door panel the same way as you did the drivers side- getting the hang of things?

Door Handle Cover

Cover Removed

Screw Behind Handle


Step 12...

Pics of the passenger speaker installed and another of the screws used... Put the panel back on, be careful with the one bolt that goes behind the door handle, a pain to get back in there, keeps wanting to fall inside the door...

Voila- finished with the front!!!

Passenger Speaker Installed


Step 13...

Mostly you can refer to rpgonzalez post about getting to the rear panel, it is kind of a pain getting off. But, these speakers are so poor they must be replaced!!!

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....&threadid=7869

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....&threadid=7878


Here are some pics and info..

First lift up, on the area besid the kick plate. Then start at the bottom and work your way up releasing each clip from the car, make sure you know the location of each. The one at the top is a kicker, pull towards the front of the car, it will come loose and then the rest are easy...

The two small glove compartments are also easy to pull out, just lift up and pull forward...

Pull Up By Kickplate

Rear Side Panel Off

Rear Panel View


Step 14...

There are clips along the back of the panel cover, tough to get them to release, start from the sides and work towards the middle. Not done yet, now there are five clips on top that are metal and go down throught the metal. Have to pull hard to get them to release, but when they do, they really do, watch out!!!

Rear Panel Tabs


Basically that is it, just be careful and take good notes as to where the clips are at, that is where you pull out...

The speaker wires were different colors in the rear, so I went on instinct... I'll find out this weekend with the deck out if I guessed right. If it has a white stripe, should be positive, darker color should be negative...

Here are some pics of our beautiful stock Clarion speakers, what a joke!!! What crap!

I am doing the head unit, an Alpine 7894 CD/MP3 player and installing an Infinity Perfect 10.1 in the rear!

Here is where I bought my Infinity Kappa 63.5i cheap on EBAY!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1382707881

Here is the sub I bought-
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1382707861


Anyways, enjoy and let me know if you guys have questions.

Da Gimp

None of these links work for me except the ebay ones

fdao

No workey for me either

schindem

I have been having some real issues with posting pics...

So I tried links to my yahoo website, I guess those don't work either???

Sorry, I'm working on a fix...

2003z

iTrader: (7)

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....&threadid=7995

Zoro

since your pics don't work.

are the front and rear speakers the same speaker?
i know the size is the same but i thought maybe the
front might have midrange and the back just bass.

2003z

iTrader: (7)

the front and back aren't the same. I saw Skidazzle's car all apart last week, the factory rear speakers are 32ohms.

fdao

I think he meant the size of the speakers were 6.5 for both front and back.

Zoro

I knew they were both 6.5's I was wanting to know if the backs were different from the fronts as far as resistance, coaxial, etc.
if the backs are 32ohms what are the fronts.
Sound like they have the resistance up to keep them from blowing.

After reading all the reviews for heads and speakers it doesn't look like anyone makes the perfect head or speaker.
Looks like the Infinity or Polk components are the closest and the price of having just the 4 speakers replaced would be close to $500 with the 1" spacers and dynomat.

I think I'm just gonna replace them and see how the stock radio sounds.

schindem

Step 1...

Well, I started at about 4:30pm and finished at about 9:00pm. Took a few breaks though.

As I promised- step by step instructions with pics...

Door from the beginning, lift up on the cover to the left nearest to the door. Lift up, very easy to take off.


Door Panel Before
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227079Imgp0645.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Door Panel Cover Before
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227082Imgp0646.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Door Panel Lift
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227084Imgp0647.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Step 2...

Next, remove switch panel.

1 screw, pulls out easy.

Inside Handle
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227086Imgp0648.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Step 3...

Remove the 2 screws after taking off the switch panel.

Remove 2 Screws
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227087Imgp0649.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Use a flathead to remove the wires from panel.

Clips Removed
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227089Imgp0650.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Step 4...

Next remove the cover underneath the door handle, very easy, but use something thin like a butterknife to get it started... Then remove the screw located behind the handle, careful!- Don't lose it!

Door Handle Cover
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227092Imgp0651.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Cover Removed
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227093Imgp0652.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Screw Behind Handle
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37603/227121Imgp0677.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Step 5...

Remove door panel by carefully pulling out all around edges to free tabs...

Then lift up on panel to free it from the door. Lay down to the side, remember to be very careful not to scratch, very easy to scratch this material on the doors...

View Inside Door
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227096Imgp0655.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Step 6...

Notice the window that would hit speakers with large drivers...

I needed to use a spacer to separate to avoid the window hitting my speaker when rolled down.

Spacer can be purchase at a stereo shop, need to be 1" for the 6.5" speaker. I made my own easily as you can see, my shop didn't have any in stock and I couldn't wait!

I just used some rubber plumbing that was a perfect fit to my speakers. The cost of spacers from a stereo shop would be 8-10.00, not very much, if I were you I would take the time to find some.

Window Contact Point
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227097Imgp0657.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Do It Yourself Spacers
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227098Imgp0658.jpg" width="640" height="480">


1" Spacers
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227109Imgp0666.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Step 7...

These are the screws/ washers and clip to hold speakers in place.

Sizewise, they were 3 inches and 2 inches long, to avoid hitting the window on the closest side. Splice wires together, red positive and blue negative for both doors.

View of Screws Used
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227104Imgp0663.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Measure of Screws Used
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37603/227122Imgp0678.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Screws in Door
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227107Imgp0665.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Step 8...

This is the speaker installed!!! Good to go, now put everything back the way you found it.

Notice if you don't have a spacer that is narrow enough, the speaker cover will come off... ooops.

Good to know though, you can now see how crappy these Track speakers are- I've seen better at Walmart for $10.00!!! Made by Clarion, sound like ***, $35,000 and this is what we get???

Go figure, sounds much better!

New Speaker in Door
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227143Imgp0670.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Speaker View
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227112Imgp0672.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Speaker Cover Off...
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227114Imgp0673.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Clarion Front
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37603/227127Imgp0687.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Clarion Rear
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37603/227128Imgp0688.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Step 9...

Now for the passenger door, a few differences, so pay attention...

Remove the brushed alum decor, but be careful pull out from the top with butterknife, it will pop out at the bottom...

Remove the two screws located deep inside this handle.


Remove Passenger Handle Cover...
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227116Imgp0674.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Remove 2 Screws in Handle
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227117Imgp0675.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Step 10...

Remove blank panel and switch panel, and the two screws that are located under the switch panel...


Remove Switch Panel
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37603/227120Imgp0676.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Step 11...

Remove cover under door handle, and the screw deep behind.

Lift off door panel the same way as you did the drivers side- getting the hang of things?


Door Handle Cover
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37603/227121Imgp0677.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Cover Removed
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37602/227093Imgp0652.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Screw Behind Handle
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37603/227121Imgp0677.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Step 12...

Pics of the passenger speaker installed and another of the screws used... Put the panel back on, be careful with the one bolt that goes behind the door handle, a pain to get back in there, keeps wanting to fall inside the door...

Voila- finished with the front!!!


Passenger Speaker Installed
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37603/227123Imgp0681.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Step 13...

Mostly you can refer to rpgonzalez post about getting to the rear panel, it is kind of a pain getting off. But, these speakers are so poor they must be replaced!!!

https://my350z.com/forum/showthr...=&threadid=7869

https://my350z.com/forum/showthr...=&threadid=7878


Here are some pics and info..

First lift up, on the area besid the kick plate. Then start at the bottom and work your way up releasing each clip from the car, make sure you know the location of each. The one at the top is a kicker, pull towards the front of the car, it will come loose and then the rest are easy...

The two small glove compartments are also easy to pull out, just lift up and pull forward...


Pull Up By Kickplate
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37603/227125Imgp0683.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Rear Side Panel Off
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37603/227126Imgp0684.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Rear Panel View
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37603/227124Imgp0682.jpg" width="640" height="480">


Step 14...

There are clips along the back of the panel cover, tough to get them to release, start from the sides and work towards the middle. Not done yet, now there are five clips on top that are metal and go down throught the metal. Have to pull hard to get them to release, but when they do, they really do, watch out!!!


Rear Panel Tabs
<img src="http://prod.bsis.bellsouth.net/coDataImages/p/Groups/17/17097/folders/37603/227147ampinstall(8).jpg" width="640" height="480">


Basically that is it, just be careful and take good notes as to where the clips are at, that is where you pull out...

The speaker wires were different colors in the rear, so I went on instinct... I'll find out this weekend with the deck out if I guessed right. If it has a white stripe, should be positive, darker color should be negative...

I am doing the head unit, an Alpine 7894 CD/MP3 player and installing an Infinity Perfect 10.1 in the rear!

Here is where I bought my Infinity Kappa 63.5i cheap on EBAY!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...item=1382707881

Here is the sub I bought-
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...item=1382707861


Anyways, enjoy and let me know if you guys have questions.

schindem

I just hosted them on Bellsouth.net and linked to them...

Here is the good thread!!!

Enjoy-

LiquidZee

Great Post!!!!


No wonder why those stock speakers sound so crappy,
i mean look at them!


great job.

I'll be saving this for reference!

schindem

The two front speakers both have Red and Blue wires...

Red is positive-
Blue is negative-


The Driver's side (left) rear speaker has a Light Green wire and Black/Yellow wire...

Light Green is positive-
Black/Yellow is negative-


The Passenger's side (right) rear speaker has a Green/White wire and a Solid Green wire...

Green/White is positive-
Solid Green is negative-


Hope this helps for all those do-it-yourself Z owners!!!

LiquidZee

Great Post!!!!


No wonder why those stock speakers sound so crappy,
i mean look at them!


great job.

I'll be saving this for reference!

fdao

Fantastic write up! Moderator, please make this a sticky post!

Da Gimp

Yes, thank you for going through the work to do this for us. I know I am going to be saving a lot of money by doing all this stuff myself, and the more stuff like this I see, the more confident I will be about ripping stuff apart.

Sabre

Do you need to dynomat the front/rear speakers? Is this a hard process?

Zoro

Want a good substitue for dynomat?
A roll of the stuff is like $250 or higher.
Ice guard, yeah the stuff you put on your roof, 255' x 2' for around $70.00 in has the same thickness and same density as dynomat. The only drawback is it only come in huge rolls.

Subw00er

schindem, I am curious about how you wired your speakers. I see you used the stock wiring which is fine ,but did you ever think that you arent getting the high frequencies that are going to the tweeter? I am not positive but it would seem to me like the wire going to the stock 6" driver is not getting a high frequency signal. If you look you will see a small box where the signal comes in then splits off to the tweeter and woofer. I'd guess there is a resistor (?) in there.

schindem

Actually, the signal makes it to that point and then splits. I disconnected the tweets, because man they just can't handle any power through them. Sound just hurt my ears, now it sounds much cleaner though. But very good to know if I want to upgrade them to reach those crisp highs...

late-