on the speakers behind headrest...how come the sound is not loud at all from them? i put an alpine HU in just a week after i bought the car so i dont know if they were like that before but the front ones are loud and clear but the rear ones...it sounds so low is it supposed to be like this?

 

because all factory speaker are junk man, you have to replace it to get better sound, they are only 16 watt per speaker man what do you aspect

 

speakers are 32ohms off the factory radio when you offset it with your alpine i am pretty sure it handles 4 ohm loads properly. The speakers are also covered pretty bad with the factory grills that also has a mesh cover behind the plastic grill from factory.

 

so should i even bother putting infinitys in the rear? should i just put them in the front?

 

You can and if you want to add a 4channel amp which really brings out the clarity if you listen to your music some what high. What type of infinitys do you got if they are kappas or kappa perfects they recommend and amp to power them.

 

Yes. Having a set of rear speakers greatly increases quality. If you want, put in a center also. Sounds amazing!

 

I also believe in having rear speakers. To clarify: The stock rear speakers have 32 ohms of resistance (likely to give the stock system some front bias), which means that they have 8 times the resistance of standard 4 ohm car speakers (results in much less power getting transformed into sound). If you like the sound of having rear speakers (fiddle with the fader to see which you prefer), then I would recommend a really nice set of components in the front, and some decent 2-way coaxials in the rear. The coaxials can be had for about 80-120 bucks.

 

man I think the placement in the rear just suck period.
I installed some focals in the rears and the bass still suck azz..
the high is clean and clear, but the bass is near none existence..

Well this is on a roaster though, dont know how coupes are//

 

interesting, how did you find this out? is this for both BOSE and non-BOSE?

 

Take an ohmmeter, touch the positive lead to +, the negative lead to -, and if your meter isn't autoranging, set it to 0-200 or whatever is near that, and voila, dc resistance is yours to behold. If you want to get serious about it, you can get software that will sweep the speaker with a modified sine wave, and graph the resistance across the entire frequency range. Most people don't realize that resistance is frequency dependent, and that the rating assigned by the manufacturer is a composite average in full range mode.

Think of it like a water pipe connected to a limited water supply-Your amp being that supply. The smaller the resistance=the bigger the pipe, and the more water pressure needed to optimize flow. No amp can provide enough power to be zero resistance stable, unless your vehicle has it's own nuclear plant. And if it the speakers are high resistance, little power is drawn to drive them, but their efficiency, especially when mixed with speakers of low resistance, is practically nil, because the power hungry low resistance speakers will hog the available output leaving them with nothing but pitiful micromilliamps to drive them. Unless you wire them series-parallel, but that's another long story, fraught with peril, and best not addressed here.

 

Replace the Door speakers.... then go to www.partsexpress.com and order two 6 1/2 Focal Polykevlar home audio drivers to put in the rear. Enjoy heh

 

Rear speakers suck for sound quality - period. From my very first competition to now I've never seen a judge like rear speakers. Every time someone who does have rears the first thing the judge say - loose the rear speakers.

**** rear speakers - take the money for them and buy even better fronts - your ears, and everyone elses, will appriciated it way more!