Guys,

What does this mean? Any amp driving the sub with 4ohm will do it? Even in bridge mode?


Thanks,
Tony

 

read here:

http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/dvc/dvcAdvantage.html

 

Apexi350z,

So a dual voice can be use as a single coil sub?

For example, if I have a four channel amp. I like to use two channels for the front speakers. The rear speakers, I can just bridge them to power the sub? So the positive for each channel will join one another and same thing for the negative?

Tony

 

If the bridged channels are stable at 2 ohms then yes; However the 4 channel amp you have in mind most likely is not capable of a 2 ohm load when brdiged. If you brigde a 4 ohm amp to a dual 4 ohm sub (assuming it's wired in parrallel), you can kiss that amp good bye. Your best option is to get a class D mono amp. Those amps are capable of a 2 ohm load. With a dual 4 ohm sub you wiring options for the sub will output either 2 ohms or 8 ohms. Since 8 ohms in counter productive, you'll want to wire the dual 4 ohm in parallel to have a 2 ohm load.

 

if you have a 4 ch. amp, you can use the front two channels for the front spekers, and the rear two channels for the dual 4 ohm sub. you have to have power to both coil of the sub if you have the dual voice coil sub.

Some amp does let you bridge the rear two channels, so it's like a 3 ch. amp, you could have 2ohm on the bridge channel... so you could do a parallel wiring on the dual voice coil sub to make it a 2ohm sub, and hook up to the 3rd bridge channel on the amp.

 

I doubt the 4-channel amp he has in mind is capable of a 2 ohm load when bridged. Most (not quite all) stereo amps are not capable of putting out a 2 ohm load when bridged.

 

Guys,

So the easiest and cheapest setup would be for me to get a single voice coil?

How do I do a simple bridge for the rear channels? Do I join the negative wire together from each rear channel (same with the positive)? Doing this would create an 8 ohm (which is not productive)?



Thanks,
Tony

 

First thing you should do is be certain the amp rear channels are bridgeable.
Yep the cheapest (dollars wise) route is to get a single voice coil sub. What amp (make and model) exactly did you have in mind? Usually you'll take the - from a channel and the + from the other channel to bridge. That is not always the case though. My Orion amp for example is bridged by taking the + from one channel and the + from the other channel. The manual of the amp will tell you how it's bridged.

 

Cehome,

This is the amp I am getting. I will power the fronts with Perfect 6.1 and use the rear for a Infinity Perfect 10.1.


http://www.crutchfield.com/S-oTLONTE...search=car+amp

As of right now I am looking to get an amp kit. Guys,

Since we are at this subject. What amount of amp(fuse) do I need for the fuse holder. Lets say my amp needs two fuses of 30 amp each (60) and the basslink is 20 amp. Do I need to get a fuse holder of at least 90? Can I live with it being 60 amp?


thanks,
Tony

 

Infinity Perfect 10.1? Good choice. I'd throw at least 300-350W RMS to that bad boy. I had the exact sub before with a 250W RMS amp. It performed much better when I threw 375W RMS at it. But go with whatever your budget can afford. The 90amp fuse with fuse holder will be fine. With your system specs you won't get anywhere close to 90amps from the wattage your pushing

 

Cehome,

Would this be a better setup for just powering the sub?

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-UWhGZ4...&search=car+amp


Here is the spec verbage: Hook up the MRP-M350 to one 4-ohm sub, and you get 200 watts RMS; connect a second 4-ohm subwoofer and the power output increases to 350 watts! All that juice means that your subs won't just be loud, they'll sound clean and musical, too. A variable low-pass crossover lets you tune the output to match your particular sub setup.


More spec

200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms 350 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms requires 8-gauge power and ground leads — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier MOSFET power supply

-----------------------------------------------------------------

Can I achieve 350rms with one Infinity Perfect 10.1d?


Thanks,
Tony

 

Cehome,

Would this be a better setup for just powering the sub?

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-VNY2NUU...search=car+amp

Here is the spec verbage: Hook up the MRP-M350 to one 4-ohm sub, and you get 200 watts RMS; connect a second 4-ohm subwoofer and the power output increases to 350 watts! All that juice means that your subs won't just be loud, they'll sound clean and musical, too. A variable low-pass crossover lets you tune the output to match your particular sub setup.


More spec

200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms 350 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms requires 8-gauge power and ground leads — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier MOSFET power supply

-----------------------------------------------------------------

Can I achieve 350rms with one Infinity Perfect 10.1d using parallel? I am new to this, but I am reading the JL for more knowledge.


Thanks,
Tony

 

Yep, you've got it.

 

cehome,

You have the amp too? If so, can you give me any feedback?

So I can use parallel wiring with just one sub (10.1d)?


Thanks,
Tony