slick099

I have the JL stealth box. It causes a lot of rattles inside and outide of my car. Does anyone have suggestions on the best locations to apply the dynamat in order to prevent rattles?

Any fixes for rearview mirror rattles?

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

everywhere you can put it. I suggest pulling everyting out of the car. I am using 3 bulk packs on my car total

slick099

DANG well I don't have that kind of money...so what are the key areas? and is there anyway to stop the rearview mirror from rattling?

dannichols

I used a pack and a half plus some liquid stuff in the fender wells. Get Dynamat cheap on E-bay or get an off brand..Liquid also seems to be the latest thing. I concentrated around areas that were either rattle prone or that were prione to noise coming from under or outside the vehicle. The wheel wells outside for noise control and then start from the front kick panels and go back, outer-floorpan, doors, rear qtr, inside the storage areas, rear internal fenders, entire trunk and maybe a little in the extreme rear. Cheap foam or thinner damping material can be used for other areas like inside the strut bar, rear brake light, license plate, etc..some areas are bettersuited to spray or liquid, and some to matting, and others to thinner material. One thing I really notice with the dampening material like dynamat is that I didn't have to do 100% of every panel. A moderate amount seems to have effect on a wider area than it actually covers. I spent about $170 on all supplies

Zquicksilver

iTrader: (5)

I just bought FatMat. Which in my opinion is just as good as Dynamat Extreme... It has rubber core for dampening and aluminum skin for heat shield and sound deadening.

$129 on ebay to your door

100sq.ft. 2 rolls 18" wide, with roller and degreaser included.


I'm lining my entire OEM sub location, the rear bar where the rear speakers are located, all of the paneling on the doors, and I'm doubling up on everything from the rear wheel wells to the entire flat surface in the hatch area. This should cut down on road noise significantly. I may even triple layer the rear wheel wells because I'm so tire of hearing damn rocks hitting the wells.

dannichols

Sounds like you will have a nice quiet ride Zquick! May I suggest a little spray deadener in the rear wheel wells. The little rock noise really went away after I did that. A can was only $6 at Autozone..the 3m Professional stuff

LaPuLaPu

iTrader: (10)

What preparation must be taken before spraying the wheel wells? How much weight do you believe added to your car?

dannichols

I bought a base model fully ready to add weight to make the car suite my needs. Namely: quiter, less rattle, and a really nice sound system. These may not be the wishes of other people with Z's who want to keep the car more track-like, but mine is a daily commuter so I'm more worried about having a nice ride to work and being able to hear my cell phone over the tire hum.

So anyways, I added about 1 1/2 Dynamat bulk backs to my car. About 50 sqft of the stuff and I estimate 22 lbs for that. The liquid spray I used probably weighs about .5 lbs per can and I used 2 cans. I would really suggest using a high quality rubber-based brush on liquid because the kind I sprayed on was very thin..it required many coats. But I did use the best stuff 3m makes and it made a difference.

I had to take out all of the plastic covering panels in the wheel wells, mud guards, etc and use plenty of painters masking tape and newspaper to cover anything that might need to be replaced down the road. I also sprayed the back of the plastic covers with the soundproofing.

I added a little more damping material (thinner than dynamat) inside the strut bar and in a few other rattle spots where dynamat was just not practical. Overall maybe 25 pounds of weight was added.

As for my stereo, it added about 50 pounds. Heavier head unit, new 6.5's, RCA and Amp wiring, 2 amps, amp rack, Sub woofer enclosure, and 12" sub.

But I did remove the spare tire and all accessories (-40lbs), rear winshield wiper, and some small non-essentials. Net effect is about 35 lbs over stock.

Zquicksilver

iTrader: (5)

If the rock pinging does not subside to a decent level, I will use the 3M product in the well.

Thanks for the tip.

dannichols

Cool. Have you ever driven over frshly asphalted road that is still wet..that sounds the worst!!!!!!!!!

slick099

So where are the problem areas for rattling with subs for yall?

dannichols

After the soundproofing, mine has still been the rear end..hatch..inside the rear bumper and rear brake light.

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

My installers/friends get bulk packs for 115 shipped,

my car is totally gutted, and I mean totally. The stealership thought I had stollen my car when I took it in to be fixed the other day.

Curbs sucks

slick099

what do u mean by gutted

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

carpet, plastics, seats, and dash are out of the car

slick099

wow yea the plastic is the main thing that rattles

whoojong

iTrader: (9)

i used brown bread from B-quiet, i think the url is http://www.b-quiet.com it works really well and it's ALOT cheaper than dynamat. and they ran some dB test and it seems to do better than dynamat too. check it out.

Whoojong

slick099

has anyone tried putting some type of filler in the strut tower to keep the plastic from rattling?

OgreDave

Lots of deadening products .. just don't buy Dynamat, it's overpriced.

Just wanted to comment on the rocks/gravel noise .. do NOT spray that stuff on outdoors and please cover your rotors/brakes Main reason why I prefer the paint-on type.

350G

iTrader: (4)

I agree 100% . . . I used to work in an audio store and competed in a few sound offs with my old eclipse. Needless to say, I loved the "brown bread." It was really easy to apply and worked like a charm. If I do my Z, I'll also include a small layer of open cell foam to absorb the road noise.