10" sub help??
#1
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From: West Bloomfield, MI
10" sub help??
I am looking for 1 10" sub for a sealed enclosure I just picked up. It looks to be about 1.25 cf. I am not looking to spend a ton of cash on it. I have a MTX Thunder 1000d I was going to use for power. I believe it is 750watts into 2 ohms. 500 into 4 ohms. I found a 10w6 for $100 and a 10w0 for $50 I just don't know if it is worth getting an older used sub. I also was looking at the infinity kappa perfect 10" I can get for around $100 NEW. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. And if anyone has any 10" subs that would fit my needs hit with a PM. Thanks!!!
#6
If it were me ... depending on how much you're willing to spend (read: how long you can save up) ..
I'd brace (shrink) the box to about 1cuft & go used IDMax around $200.
Otherwise assuming you're not willing to .. the Perfect & the W6v2 @ 4ohm or 2ohm would be fine .. I like having headroom. My personal preference for a $100 driver is probably the IDQ (had 7 12's at one point) .. but they can be had for less. The box is too big and it's not as loud (almost, but not quite) as the other 2 options .. but I like SQ .. I'd just go 2 10s, 2 12s, or supersub me
Then again .. I've had quite a few supersubs, I dunno if I'll go back to normal products
I'd brace (shrink) the box to about 1cuft & go used IDMax around $200.
Otherwise assuming you're not willing to .. the Perfect & the W6v2 @ 4ohm or 2ohm would be fine .. I like having headroom. My personal preference for a $100 driver is probably the IDQ (had 7 12's at one point) .. but they can be had for less. The box is too big and it's not as loud (almost, but not quite) as the other 2 options .. but I like SQ .. I'd just go 2 10s, 2 12s, or supersub me
Then again .. I've had quite a few supersubs, I dunno if I'll go back to normal products
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#8
Dunno about the Diamond Audio sub ..
Just wanted to add that the cuft sizes I was referrin to above are AFTER displacement from the driver .. don't forget to include that in the measurements/calculations.
Just wanted to add that the cuft sizes I was referrin to above are AFTER displacement from the driver .. don't forget to include that in the measurements/calculations.
#10
I guess I'll add my $0.02 here (having just spent the past 3 weeks & 50hours of my time on my custom fiberglass sealed enclousre...)
There are many many subs you can go with. But since your sealed is around 1.25cu ft (Gross Volume), like someone mentioned before, you have to make sure the volume with the woofer displaced (Net) is within your Sub's recommended size. (I measured mine using packing peanuts to measure internal volume)
You can go on most Subwoofer Manuf. Websites to gain this info. (i.e. 10" JL10w3v2 calls for recomended 0.6-0.9 "net" internal space, and the 10w6v2 --> 0.5-1.0 "net" cu ft)
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pd...PowerRange.pdf
To make sure everything sounds gravy... find one with specs that fit your box. Or if you need MORE volume, just add some polyfill to artificially increase the internal volume of the box.
Good luck with your sub selection.
Oh,... I prefer JL... Love the sound!
There are many many subs you can go with. But since your sealed is around 1.25cu ft (Gross Volume), like someone mentioned before, you have to make sure the volume with the woofer displaced (Net) is within your Sub's recommended size. (I measured mine using packing peanuts to measure internal volume)
You can go on most Subwoofer Manuf. Websites to gain this info. (i.e. 10" JL10w3v2 calls for recomended 0.6-0.9 "net" internal space, and the 10w6v2 --> 0.5-1.0 "net" cu ft)
http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pd...PowerRange.pdf
To make sure everything sounds gravy... find one with specs that fit your box. Or if you need MORE volume, just add some polyfill to artificially increase the internal volume of the box.
Good luck with your sub selection.
Oh,... I prefer JL... Love the sound!
#11
Honestly the best way to know is to hear someone elses setup.
I pretty much won't buy anything unless its a super freakin deal or a super-sub. To me it's not worth it to spend like 90% of the money & not be satisfied, then have to resell it & spend 110% of the money to be satisfied.
And I'm not a huge JL fan, just because I think most of their drivers are overpriced. Especially the W7 line w/the BS 1.5ohm load.
I pretty much won't buy anything unless its a super freakin deal or a super-sub. To me it's not worth it to spend like 90% of the money & not be satisfied, then have to resell it & spend 110% of the money to be satisfied.
And I'm not a huge JL fan, just because I think most of their drivers are overpriced. Especially the W7 line w/the BS 1.5ohm load.
#14
MTX makes very good amps now. They have a lot of the same technology as Xtant, being that Xtant is their parent company.
The space isn't a big problem. You can always fill it if need to. The problem here is finding a 750W@2ohm stable 10" sub. Or even a 4ohm sub. Most of the subs now are 4ohm DVC which will make it either a 2ohm or 8ohm load.
A lot of the power hungry subs are quite a bit. Good luck on your search.
The space isn't a big problem. You can always fill it if need to. The problem here is finding a 750W@2ohm stable 10" sub. Or even a 4ohm sub. Most of the subs now are 4ohm DVC which will make it either a 2ohm or 8ohm load.
A lot of the power hungry subs are quite a bit. Good luck on your search.
#15
Guys,
Finally sold my mono amp. I am looking at Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 and also Diamond Audio M6II sub. The sub is rated at 800rms.
Should I get a dual 2 ohm or dual 4ohm? If I get a dual 2 ohm, I can wire "series" which should run more efficient with the amp?
Can the amp drive the sub?
PLease provide feedback.
Thanks in advance,
Tony
Finally sold my mono amp. I am looking at Phoenix Gold Xenon 600.1 and also Diamond Audio M6II sub. The sub is rated at 800rms.
Should I get a dual 2 ohm or dual 4ohm? If I get a dual 2 ohm, I can wire "series" which should run more efficient with the amp?
Can the amp drive the sub?
PLease provide feedback.
Thanks in advance,
Tony
Last edited by tractng; 11-20-2004 at 08:10 PM.
#16
Tony,
If the amp is 1ohm stable & makes max power there, you want a Dual 2 sub, wired in parallel for a final 1ohm load. (max power outta amp)
If the amp is 2ohm stable & makes max power there, you want a Dual 4 sub, wired in parallel for a final 2ohm load.
As for driving that sub .. sorry I dunno anything about the Xenon or the Diamond. I have the older PG Ti line.
If the amp is 1ohm stable & makes max power there, you want a Dual 2 sub, wired in parallel for a final 1ohm load. (max power outta amp)
If the amp is 2ohm stable & makes max power there, you want a Dual 4 sub, wired in parallel for a final 2ohm load.
As for driving that sub .. sorry I dunno anything about the Xenon or the Diamond. I have the older PG Ti line.
#17
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The Amp is a MTX thunder 1000d it is a couple of years old but brand new. I believe It is stable for a 2 ohm load so dual 4 ohm coils would be perfect. That would yield somewhere in the 750 watt range. What dual 4 ohm sub is out there that can handle 750 watts and is under $200? What about the Rockford Fosgate P310D4 or the T110D4?
Last edited by Jspec350z; 11-21-2004 at 06:15 PM.