Farenheit Installation
#141
Originally Posted by Paul350Z
YEs - the cubby is 95% of the plastic bin and the finisher is the little plate that goes in the bottom front right under the screen to cover the screws.
#142
I used to have the 7001 screen in my z for about 3 years and it finally died (it would power up with the ignition) a month ago so I just bought the 7000 and installed it but I have a slight issue. I wired the power into where the old one was powered to. THis is also the power for my alpine head unit and clarion dvd player....I notice that the screen slightly flickers and flickers especially when the bass hits....I never ever had the issue with the 7001. Also, the 7001 had a 3.5mm plug for the power and the new one just had the black and red wire, so i used the existing adapter from the 7001 and cut the end off and wired the 7000 to that using butt connectors....any ideas why it is doing this??
#143
Originally Posted by Paul350Z
I ran the screen off the ACC +12V that runs to the headend.
EDIT: Nevermind found it its the thicker yellow wire that plugs into the back of the head unit.
Last edited by Mewantbfp; 11-16-2006 at 08:18 PM.
#144
Just wanted to say thank you for the write up. I installed the 7000 unit tonight without a hitch! +1 for the "easy as pie" install One minute spent messing with the settings to set Power On to memory, and I don't even need the remote anymore. Perfect!
#145
Originally Posted by sorphin
I just compared the Farenheit and the Power Acoustik.. the Power Acoustik (according to the specs) has a higher resolution.. it's 2400x480 vs the Farenheit which says 1440x234.. anyone know how accurate that is?
#147
i just bought one on ebay tonight, cant wait to install it! For people still running stock headunits...what are you hooking this up to for video sources? PS2's? DVD players, can i get a tv tuner?
#148
hey i notice that u say to mount the screws back in to hold the screen. well my screen covers the round holes where i think i am suppose to place the screws and i don't see anywhere else to mount em. sumthin i am doing wrong here? seems like the screen is too thick
#149
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,704
Likes: 2
From: Riverside CA
Originally Posted by Kurru
hey i notice that u say to mount the screws back in to hold the screen. well my screen covers the round holes where i think i am suppose to place the screws and i don't see anywhere else to mount em. sumthin i am doing wrong here? seems like the screen is too thick
#150
Originally Posted by Paul350Z
The screws won't go into the screen - they actually go behind the screen wedging the screen forward. They've been like that on mine for near 18 months without issue. I suppose you could either carefully drill and tap the screen or make a small hole in the cubby's plastic. I've had my radio in and out several times and the screws are still where I put them.
#153
in the 03' is the ACC power wire "light green" it says LG in the service manual but I wanted to make sure before I started tapping away. Also is the black wire the ground? Or which screw should I run the ground to?
Thanks
Thanks
#154
Originally Posted by kvp35
in the 03' is the ACC power wire "light green" it says LG in the service manual but I wanted to make sure before I started tapping away. Also is the black wire the ground? Or which screw should I run the ground to?
Thanks
Thanks
#156
thanks for this write-up, never installed anything audio/video in my car. looked easy so I figured I would try it and everything worked perfect. screen is in powered up and showing video
thanks again
thanks again
#158
The Farenheit T-7001MHR is very different from the Farenheit T-7000MHR (which is the same as the Power Acoustik PT-700MHR and the NESA Vision NSM-7005).
The Farenheit T-7001MHR has two video inputs that you control using the handheld remote control. That feature appears to be an advantage. But, think about it. Do you want to dig for the remote every time you switch video sources? Wouldn’t it be easier to simply press a conveniently located A/B video switch (maybe located in the OEM seat heater switch position) to accomplish changing between devices?
Let’s say you have a single LCD screen located in the upper/forward cubby that displays navigation or a rearview camera. If you have the Farenheit T-7001MHR, you connect both video leads to the LCD (the T-7001 supports input from two video devices) and use the Farenheit’s remote to select either device (and it’s corresponding video). Compare this to a device that supports a single video input (such as the T-7000) to which you install a dual (A/B) or multiple (A/B/C or more) switch handling any number of video devices. The physical switch is anywhere in your car that is convenient, and it eliminates digging for the remote.
…Some other things I didn’t like about the Farenheit T-7001MHR:
1) It doesn’t have the nice back enclosure/casing you get with the Farenheit T-7000MHR (Power Acoustik PT-700MHR and the NESA Vision NSM-7005). The back is open, exposing all the components. The T-7001MHR is crappy and cheaply built. It’s no wonder the device was discontinued.
2) The T-7001MHR doesn’t provide as sharp an image as the T-7000MHR, and it’s colors are too saturated.
3) The remote control you get with the T-7001MHR has a confusing interface making it very difficult to operate.
I have (and installed) a Farenheit T-7001MHR, and quickly pulled it in favor of a Power Acoustik PT-700MHR (which is much better). To handle multiple video sources, I simply installed an A/B switch to toggle between video input from various devices.
--Spike
The Farenheit T-7001MHR has two video inputs that you control using the handheld remote control. That feature appears to be an advantage. But, think about it. Do you want to dig for the remote every time you switch video sources? Wouldn’t it be easier to simply press a conveniently located A/B video switch (maybe located in the OEM seat heater switch position) to accomplish changing between devices?
Let’s say you have a single LCD screen located in the upper/forward cubby that displays navigation or a rearview camera. If you have the Farenheit T-7001MHR, you connect both video leads to the LCD (the T-7001 supports input from two video devices) and use the Farenheit’s remote to select either device (and it’s corresponding video). Compare this to a device that supports a single video input (such as the T-7000) to which you install a dual (A/B) or multiple (A/B/C or more) switch handling any number of video devices. The physical switch is anywhere in your car that is convenient, and it eliminates digging for the remote.
…Some other things I didn’t like about the Farenheit T-7001MHR:
1) It doesn’t have the nice back enclosure/casing you get with the Farenheit T-7000MHR (Power Acoustik PT-700MHR and the NESA Vision NSM-7005). The back is open, exposing all the components. The T-7001MHR is crappy and cheaply built. It’s no wonder the device was discontinued.
2) The T-7001MHR doesn’t provide as sharp an image as the T-7000MHR, and it’s colors are too saturated.
3) The remote control you get with the T-7001MHR has a confusing interface making it very difficult to operate.
I have (and installed) a Farenheit T-7001MHR, and quickly pulled it in favor of a Power Acoustik PT-700MHR (which is much better). To handle multiple video sources, I simply installed an A/B switch to toggle between video input from various devices.
--Spike
Last edited by Spike100; 12-07-2007 at 04:58 PM.