Lancaster

Hey Gang,

Ok, I've been planning to upgrade my car audio horizons for probably the past 8 months. I always was intimidated by how big the job seemed (for me at least). But now I'm ready to get the project on, and since it will be my first major project ever, would you guys please go through and make sure I'm not forgetting something (or doing something thats just plain dumb). I spent all night researching from my350z as well as several other places~

Here is the basic idea of my upgrade: (note this is a 2006 non-bose setup)

-Thorough sound deadening (maybe not as hardcore as 2fast4thelaw's..but I'm looking to reduce road noise as well as buzz).
-New Head unit (Avic-Z1)
-New door speakers (Focal 165V2s)
-*new door pods* (Nazar's)
-Adding Sub (JL Audio 10W6v2)
-*box for sub* (Zenclosure 10' stealth understrut)
-dedicated sub Amp (JL Audio 500/1)
-dedicated component amp (JL Audio 300/4) *the rear speakers will be nulled
============================================
Ok, so that being the idea; I came up with this list of additional components that I need:

-Power wire / block. *Stinger had a kit, SWK4D that looked correct for my application I believe...was planning on 4 gauge from the battery to block then 8 gauge out of the block

-Speaker wires. *3 runs...amp to left door crossover, amp to right door crossover, and amp to sub. gauge recommendations?

-Head unit wiring harness. no likey wire cut and splicy -_-. I'll also get a trim kit while we're on the head unit.

-RCA wires (also called interconnects I believe) *left, right, and sub.

Ok so am I doomed yet? Thankfully I'm not doing this by myself. I have some friends at work that claim to know how to run an install. The only part I'm a little tentative about is the dynamat, and how much skin i'll feel comfortable taking off the car in order to get the deadening in. It looks like a time consuming chore...

But anyways, I'm dead tired now. If I forgot something I'll come back in a few hours and put it in.

Thanks in advance for the input!

Rob

shensuji

iTrader: (1)

Leave some slack for X-over to speakers as well - 12/16AWG will be fine. If your running preference(sp?), why not utilize a JL Audio 300/2 instead?

12AutoX

iTrader: (7)

I am not sure that 8 ga wire will work for the 500/1 or the 300/4 for that matter. If I were you I would run the same setup (huge power wire from the battery to your fuse block/splitter, two 50 amp fuses and two bits of 4 ga wire to the amps.

Ditto on the 300/2 comment. That's all you need.
Another option that may be cheaper and just as good would be to run just a 300/4. The front two channels could run you components up front, and the rear two could be bridged and low-passed to run your 10W6. That would send 150 wpc up front and about 450 watts mono to your sub.

Lancaster

thanks for the

I was leaning towards the 300/4 over the 300/2 for versatility, since I could just as easily bridge the 300/4 and still have the option later of having it run 4 speakers.

I've been spending time now on Stinger's website, and jeez all that stuff sure is pretty I'm sure a lot of the items there are overkill, but...must...go...to...the...blue light....

I think I'm going to do some research on other amp brands that are similar in function and quality to the JL Audio. The Zapco and DLS amps looked nice..

shensuji

iTrader: (1)

Actually the 300/2 has greater versatility for your arrangement.

300-2 provides 150 W RMS x 2 @ 4 ohm (14.5V) whereas the 300-4 will be 150 W RMS @ 8 ohms!

300-2 also has the ability to become a solid mono amp.