spiroh,

Here is the anylasis of the JL 10W7. I will show 3 charts for different loadings and give an explanation for each.

The first chart shows 2 drivers loaded into our 5.5 cubic foot space sealed.

Specs
System Q = .6501 (to low target .7 to .9)
Resonant Frequency = 34.04hz
Alpha = .4655 (to low target above .7)
3db down = 41.23hz (lower limit of bass response)

You will see by the chart that the frequency response starts to roll off around 200hz indicating to large of am enclosure. Phase and group delay are about average.

 

The next chart shows 2 drivers loaded into a 2.09 cubic foot sealed enclosure.

Specs
System Q = .8 (good)
Resonant Frequency = 45.59hz (awfully high for a subwoofer)
Alpha = 1.219 (good)
3db down = 41.84hz (lower limit of bass response)

Roll off looks good, phase and group delay are average, but the lower limit off bass response is poor. To achieve this result you would need to fill 3 cubic feet of the 5.5 cubic foot space we have.

 

This chart shows 2 driver loaded into a 5.5 cubic foot ported enclosure.

Specs
Tuning Frequency = 27.06hz
Required Porting = 25 square inches of port area
Port Length = 12.75"
3db down = 23.78hz

Very steep roll off with a slight 2db rise in frequency response. Group delay is off the chart and phase response is high. These factors indicate the likelyhood of ringing and phasing problems at the lower frequencies.

 

Summary

Out of the three options provided here for the JL 10W7 the ported option works the best. These JL's are poor performers in sealed enclosures.

It should be noted that these JLs appear to be designed for "flexibility" and not designed for any particular application. The analysis shows this by not performing optimal in any situation but just mediocre in most of the situations.

These are big dollars so if you don't have them yet you could do a lot better and probably save some cash. If you do have them, go ported.

Jeff

 

Nice job. Looks Great! much more extensive than what I have done.
noting another poster's question I have not used dynamat or any sound proofing product and have no problem with noise so far with my installs. Had no problem before the installs either. No rattles YET! 4500+ miles.

 

"You are correct the area is large for most 10" speakers. I think I found only three or four 10" speakers that would work properly out of 30-40 speakers speced.
The enclosure volume is more suited to a pair of 12s but would require some creative modification to get them to physically fit."


Did you mean that the shared volume was 5.5 cubes or was that each. I am very interested in doing this. What was "ripped out" that was resting under there from the factory?? It seems like a lot of nice space.

Also, how creative do you have to be to get 12's to work??
Will they fit in the opening if I fabricate a new mounting bracket?
I will be using the 8 spoke MTX stlye baskets

I will most likely be using some TC Sounds custom built subs...but it is a lot easier to get 12s than 10's so I would prefer the 12s.

Thanks

Jim

 

Jim,

Yes the shared space is 5.5 cubic feet. Nothing was removed except the glove box. The space is one open area that goes back to the spare tire location.

I think if you make a new bracket and speaker grills you could get 12s to fit. If I remember right the opening behind the bracket in the pics is around 11" tall.

I think you will find a wider choice of 12s that will work in that volume. Post pictures when you get it done.

Jeff

 

How, exactly?

 

There is a wire from the monitor control unit that hooks to the power on lead of the parking brake. Basically when the parking brake is engaged, a switch activates and sends power to the monitor, which activates an electronic switch in the monitor turning it on.

Apply acc power to this wire and the monitor is always on.

The TM-760 owners manual actually has instructions on how to do this.

Jeff

 

when listening to music on ur head unit does it send any type of visualization to your screen?

 

Depends on the CD. In most cases no. Some CDs have video tracks or graphics that the player can read and send to the monitor.

Jeff

 

thank you, found it in the manual.

 

First of all, very clean install !!! Nice work.

I put a sub in and i just ordered the factory plastic that covers it. I screwed mine on the outside, but in your photos it actaully looks like you took the metal out and screwed it from the inside. My only concern is that when the speaker flexes (my way) that it will be touching that plastic.

 

I think the surround on the speaker will touch the grill panel when mounted from the front that is why I did the rear mount.

Jeff

 

What is the mounting depth of the stock speakers? I'm looking at going Diamond Audio S600s componants in the doors. They have a depth of 2-1/8". If 2-1/8" is too deep, would you consider selling the ABS bracket i would need? Also is there a way to mount a 1" tweeter in the stock location? Maybe a surface mount or something. Thanks, you have a very very nice install. Great job.

-DrCold

 

Drcold,

The speakers I used were 3.25" deep and I had them mounted on the stock bracket which was about .75" out from the door so around 2.5" of the speaker was inside the metal portion of the door. The maganet was still about .25" to .375" to deep so the window wouldn't clear.

So if I have done my math right I would estimate that there is a total of 2-1/8" to 2-1/4" of room if mounted directly to the metal door. I think you could get the S600s to fit and the window to roll down, but I would be concerned about someone slaming the door shut with the window fully down and the corner of the window banging into the back of the magnet.

If you mount the S600s to the stock bose ABS bracket you will have no problem and you would be able to use the stock wiring harness and connector.

Jeff

 

Sweet! Thanks for the quick reply. My birthday is comming up, and its time to treat my self to some gifts. I'm thinking a Kenwood KDC-X969 head unit, and the Diamond Audio S600s componants. Something to get me started for now. I'll probably add the S6.0mx3, 3-way addon speaker for the rears a bit later. Thanks again!

-DrCold

 

Sounds like a great system! Make sure you post some pics when you get it done.

Oh I forgot to mention what I did with the tweeter. I wanted a one inch dome too and there isn't enough room in the stock location. What I did was surface ount them to the upper part of the dash abpve the vents that connect to the doors. I will eventually flush mount them in that location since there is about 1.5" between the top of the dash and the venting tube beneath.

I didn't do it yet because that peice of the dash is all one peice from the drivers door across the defroster vents to the passanger door. It looks like a pain in the a** to remove. I think the speedo has to come out to get that peice out. So they surface mounted for now but would look real good flush.

Jeff

 

how much did the whole system cost excluding the screen?

 

o see how it is