Finally was able to get the base stereo in our track model replaced. Upgraded to Alpine 9813 HU, JL XR650's for the front and JL VR650's in the rear. Used my trusty PPI Sedona amps. HU is pushing the VR650's and the Sedona IQ100 is pushing the XR650's which are bi-wired. I have a 10w3 which will go in the group buy sub enclosure and will be pushed by the Sedona IQ200. Used 'Fatmat' to cover the entire trunk, behind seat area and both doors. **This has made a huge improvement!!!! - Road noise has been cut WAY down. **

Thanks to Encore for the tips on running speaker wires to the doors, Onecoolee for the tips on aftermarket HU and factory NAV. Thanks to Noahbuddy for pulling his car apart in the Springfield Mall parking lot, showing me where things were, and to everyone else who has posted "how to's"

 

These guys didn't let me slack one bit!!!

 

fatmat on the door

 

the other door

 

the hatch area

 

the glove box area

 

3/4" mdf for mounting the amps in the glove box. Slight modification of glove box was required. Had to cut a hole towards the back to pass the wires through

 

amps mounted on the board

 

glove box with amps put back in place

 

everything put back and the crossovers mounted. I had to move these so the door would close - wires hit the amps and wouldn't let the door close. when I get some time, I will probably shave an inch or so off the back of the amp board so it will sit further back allowing this set up.

 

the tweeter glued on the factory mounting bracket

 

tweeter and bracket put back in sail panel

 

maybe a dumb question, but.... does the inside of the storage box have to be put back in for the door to be reinstalled and work? Like are there some parts that have to be connected to each or anything? Or do they have nothing to do with each other? I need more room than what the OEM carpeted box allows so I would like to still have the OEM door there and work but just not have the molded storage in there?

 

No, the inside carpeted box does not have to be in place for the OEM door to work. When you take off the plastic panel that contains the door, and covers the behind the seat area, you will see that the box is held in place with appx 10 screws. Also, there is a black hook that is mounted at the top with two screws. Remove the box, but put back the hook and 2 screws, OEM door will still work.

 

How big a spacer did you have to use to fit the JL XRs in the doors? I am thinking of using those same speakers in my Z

 

It ended up being 1.25". I bought a set of 1" spacers and some .25" thick mdf. Traced the 1" spacers on the mdf, used a scroll saw and cut them out. Fit real nice - no problems with the magnets hitting the glass or the cone hitting the door panel. Make sure you use something to seal up any gaps between the spacer and the door, and if you use 2 spacers, between each spacer.

FWIW, if you haven't heard these speakers in a Z - the are f'in incredible!!! I haven't had a chance to adjust the crossovers or set the EQ on the head unit, and they are still amazing!