Will do tomorrow. Thanks.

 

I was referring to enclosure volume, not loudness volume, but it's all good. I know you were meticulous with your measurements, and even if it was off it can't be by that much as to make that great of an audible difference. I'm just spit-balling here.....

As for the break in period, all speakers have one. A good rule of thumb is at least 10 hours at moderate volume. Some stiffer suspended subs may need up to 20 hours. They typically loosen up and warm up a bit. Not sure if this is your problem, but ......

This may sound like a dumb question, but are you sure you have the sub wired up correctly? If you have the 2 voice coils wired up opposite poles of one another it could be causing your issue.

 

werd The prior volume was about 1.30 cu ft total without sub basket(guesstimate). Once I placed the new baffle board, it should have increase the internal volume. Not buy much, but some. I should be well within range.

If this is the case, then I would need to bump it a few more days. Sunday I should get plenty play time at the car show

Sub is wired correctly. 2ohm DVC wired in series to drop 4ohm load. One small piece of cable wired from + of one terminal to the - of the other terminal, leaving one + & - for input from my amp.

Polarities are good too, because the sub is pushing outward during excursion...

 

On my way home from work yesterday I started playing out the install in my head and what steps I took. It came to me. I rememebered there was one mounting bolt that was not in place. The reason I hadn't installed it was because of it's location. The T-nut below it sits right on top of the edge of the box, which means that any bolt longer than 1 inch will not be able to screw down because it would get stopped by the outer frame of the enclosure. I had not sealed the orginal hole up on the bottom baffle board either, nor had I placed liquid nails along the rear edge of the enclosure. I didn't place liquid nails there because I had not had a game plan as far as how I was going to get a rear mounting bolt in there.

When I got home I turned the stereo on and confirmed there was a severe air leak coming out the rear mounting hole. I took one of the 2 inch bolts I purchased, marked it, then cut it down to 1 inch with my Dremmel.

It stopped the leak. I took it to an empty parking lot and did a test trial with DJ Magic Mike's "Feel the Bass". BIG DIFFERENCE! The FI Q is a pretty sick sub. I made through about half of the song and had to get out the car. Turning the adjustable bass Db **** increased the bass to levels that drowned my Infinity Kappas out. I'm running components in the front and 2-way Kappa coaxal's in the rear, powered by a RF 100 x 4 @ 4ohms amp.

Because of the location of the leak, I'm wondering if I'm having an internal leak that is not noticable to me since the enclosure is under the carpet. Tomorrow I'm going to remove the sub and reseal the parameter of the sub cut out hole with a thicker layer of liquid nails. I'm also going to seal up the bottom rear mounting hole on the bottom baffle board. This should ensure there are no air leaks exiting the rear of the enclosure...

 

WOO HOO, it was a leak after all. That's great news.

 

 

Well thats good to hear VO. I was waiting to hear something. I will now consider this sub once again.


I originally was thinking of going with a JL Audio 10w3v3 or 10w6v2. How do the FI subs compare to those speakers?

 

I've never heard the ones you've listed.

 

yeah we know you were trying to use that screw hole for a port LOL

i have some ?'s

do you prefer the FI to the RF

glad you ironed out the issue

i have used

RF P3
Rf T1
Rf t2

and i find that FI>RF

 

As of now, I still think the RF hits the lows a tad bit better with my sealed enclosure, not sure about a ported enclosure.

The FI is starting to sound really good though. I might still have a small air leak issue and I haven't "broken it in" quite yet, so I won't be able to give you an accurate opionion until I reseal the box and let it play this Sunday for a few hours.

 

i woudld say the FI ssd or q is better than w3 , and the w6

i just removed JL sub from a wrx sti and installed a exonic 12" and it sounds
waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better and hits waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay louder and hits waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay deeper



see here



he dropped it off with this












after

and i did this

 

please double check for leaks , and then break in , then review

glad your over the worst off it

i felt your pain

 

these W6's, i just sold the pair of 10's for $100 they just don't have value to me

 

i like your amp rack a lot but the sub box leaves a lot to be desired. it looks really out of place in the middle of your floor like that; like someone just plopped that sub in the most random spot possible. i think it ruins the whole look of your trunk and destroys usability. i can understand why you did it that way though, it tough to find room for a 12" sub in our cars!

 

^^^ the subaru STI has become an spl car , and not his daily driver , his daily is a 2007 ford f-350 crew cab diesel

we needed to do 1 each 12" ported to compete in 0-18" trunk

the sub needed to be port and sub back

this is what the customer wants

spl cars are done to achive a high # and the cosmetic appeal takes a back seat

i respect your opinion

 

Will do, on Monday
Thanks bro.

 

Damn! Just after I complimented Val's work being meticulous and that it couldn't be an air leak, he let me down.....









HAHAHAHA, Just fuking w/ you bro. I know you still do great work.

 

Thats mainly due to a sh!tty box with the w3.

 

Not being satisfied that the missing bolt was the only leak I decided to investigate futher. Saturday I decided to remove sub and inspect the interior of the enclosure. This time I placed a flashlight in the box and actually stuck my head in there to inspect. To my surprise I found the rear edge of the box's original baffle board seal had been compromised. I don't know what would have caused the seal to break, but it did.(photos below)
I re-applied liquid nails to the area. i also applied a 2nd layer of liquid nails to the parameter of the sub cut-out hole to ensure integrity. I let the box cure overnight, then drove to the car show on Sunday.

Thursday night's sound test was nothing compared to Sunday. The FI Q's true sound came out in all it's glory on Sunday. As far as SQ goes, it effectively reproduced clearer bass notes than the RF T1. Excursion was phenominal. I got this sub jumping at least 2 inches from it's frame, and holding it this time around. It kills the lows. My entire hatch rose as the lows hit. The only thing holding the hatch down was the fact that it was closed and latched. The rear windshield wiper was taking a beating too, wobbling violently, litterally jumping off the glass. I also witnessed the sides of my rear bumper flexing as the lows hit. Luckily I have the entire rear hatch Dynomatted. If not, the rattle would've probably been pretty bad.

I had many audio enthusiast coming up and asking what I had in there. They couldn't believe it was only one 12. One guy said, "Man, that sounds like three 12's!". I also had a few audio enthusiast compliment me on the sub selection. The sound system seemed to take away from the rest of my car. Alot of people ignored the rest of the car and went straight to sticking their heads in the car to listen.

My final conclusion is the FI Q is a superior sub to the RF T1....

 

Niiiiiiiiice