awesome work!!! cant wait tosee the final results

what shop do you work at by the way up there? do you know Tim from hertzemall?

 

Thanks for the response.

I know Kenneth Kaniff, from Connecticut!

Sorry I was just listening to some old Eminem in the car.

 

lol yeah...melt in your mouth...

 

Why yes I do! Tim and I go back a long ways.
I work at SoundsGood Auto Services.

Thanks for the props homies! Word.

 

hehe, is this Mike? if so i see you from time to time on the insider forum hehehe infact you replied to a thread of mine before

keep up with the pics mang

 

Thats me! But what I have no idea what forum you are talking about.

 

sorry i mean the orgasm donation forums lol

 

Double screen update!







And a random picture of me lying in the trunk before I started the hushmat!.

 

^WTF?

 

LOL

 

Please don't tell me you haven't curled up into a ball with a blanket in the back of your car at some point.

 

The economy isn't THAT bad.

 

+1

 

lmao that was great. I doubt i could fit in there lol.

 

Damn that is an awesome project. I definitely want to some sound deadening to my car. Way to many rattles and annoying tire noise.

Is there any way you can give a breakdown on how you took everything apart or is there a guide somewhere that you used? I am especially interested in how to take the door off?

 

Well, there are a lot of details but it is really not too diffucult especially when it comes to all the rear panels.

For the Glass in the doors:

1) Remove door panel
2) There are two access holes which lead to the two bolts that hold the glass in place. Mark where the adjuster washer sits so its easier to line up later one when re-installing.
3) Take the two window bolts out **make sure you have a spotter to hold the glass in place!** then remove the window up and out.
4) Take the 8 or so 10mm bolts out of the metal outer skin. That outer skin will come off fairly easy but may need some persuading.

Thats pretty much it. When you are sound deadening make sure that you don't apply deadener to the seam between the crash beam and the door skin. Moisture needs to run down the door skin and past this seam to the bottom. If it can't, it will promote rust. I applied hushmat to the outer skin, the metal inner skin and all around the non-removeable inner skin (including the bottom of the door inside). Again, make sure you don't cover up the drain holes - they are there for a reason!!!

Hope this helps a bit.

 

Can you give me an idea of how many sq ft you used on the trunk, cubby areas, floor boards and doors?

 

- about 12 square feet per door
- about 14 square feet for the ceiling
- about 8 square feet per cubby
- about 14 square feet for the floor
- about 14 square feet for in front of the strut brace
- about 6 square feet per side for the B-C piller areas
- about 12 square feet for the hatch lid
- about 24 square feet for the trunk area

Those are estimates but should be pretty close

 

Check out part 2 of my build!
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-build...tall-pics.html

 

Awesome work man! I'll be getting some comps up front and a 10" sub soon and I wanted to deaden some of my car but not go as nearly as extreme as you did.. what do you think what are the most critical areas to deaden in a Z?