Dissident

iTrader: (1)

Dunno that you can really seal the door cause of the window at the top. You've have an easier time making a sealed pod for the door if you wanted to, but the 4" midrange works as long as you have a good infinite baffle. My 6" midbass speakers in the rear are sealed (with polyfill in there, too)

As it turns out, I built the sub box a touch too tall. HAd to trim a couple panels Oh, well. Will update the pics soon

Dream2Reality

iTrader: (1)

Hard to explain, but trust me that you really want the entire thing covered. It has to do with front/backwaves on the cone. Yes, it's not the same as a sealed box, but it will be better than what you have now. You're got it pretty much done, and I"m sure you have extra...try it out Also try another layer...see what you think.

Dissident

iTrader: (1)

Well, even if they could handle more power, my ears can't. I can already push the system past painful levels without distortion, so I'm okay with it. and I understand the reason behind it; I just don't think it'll make a huge difference. I'm done workin on the thing! I've wasted enough weekends

bjr48

Gotta ask a couple more questions, the suspense is killing me! I've seen Gish's sub box that he had made and now yours today. I am running out of patience while I wait for my car to come in and now have all of my decisions made. I thought an MDF box might fit in the same spot but I stopped by the Nissan dealer tonight and know fiberglass is the only way to get something in that space and is exactly what I want to do. I checked out your photo album. It looks like your fiberglass is the same size and shape as the styrofoam piece to get the 0.5 cubic feet. Was one of the pictures was showing the MDF top and you traced the styrofoam onto it?
So the big question is if I picked up a replacement styrofoam piece somewhere (like the dealer or someone who doesn't need theirs anymore) is there any way I can start building a box before my car gets here? Can't I put a layer or two around the styrofoam after I masking tape it then remove the styrofoam and continue to build the rest of the layers inside? If that would make it too big or tall how about sanding some of it down then start?
Sorry for all of the questions but I am itching to get started now if I can. Do you or motown have any other pics, advice, etc. that you've been sharing privately that would help me out?
thanks

Dissident

iTrader: (1)

Well, the back of the styrofoam is not shaped the same as the car, and I don't think you could really do it outside the car. I started my first box inside the car with one layer, then took it out to build the layers up. Well, when I put it back in, it didn't fit as well as I wanted to.

I think the best way to do it is to mask the inside of the car and just build the box inside it, then join it to an MDF top. But, you could cut the MDF top before you get the car if you find apiece to use to trace it, but I would recomend waiting until you have a car to work on, and make sure you have enough depth wherever you want to cut the sub (since you might not have enough room for a deep sub). Patience is the key for this project (along with a good respirator)

bjr48

OK. Thanks for the advice. I don't want to waste time on something that I can't use. That would be more frustrating. I'll just spend the next month reading fiberglass tutorials and get some materials to start practicing so when I do the car it turns out well.

bjr48

one more question for now. I've spent hours more researching fiberglass tutorials. I saw one weeks ago when I wasn't paying much attention to doing fiberglass that specifically showed how to attach MDF board to the fiberglass. Anything I found recently involved total fiberglass with just MDF rings. I didn't find them helpfull to this last question. Is the method for attaching a sheet of MDF to the fiberglass to cut the board to the outside dimensions and screw it to the fiberglass, then fiberglass around the seam up onto the face of the MDF top to seal it all? I wish I could find it again. thanks again!

Dissident

iTrader: (1)

yup, I cut it a little smaller then put a few screws in the side, then fiberglassed over it. I also fiberglassed up in the inside of the seam, but I did a crappy job of it and cut myself a million times. Have fun, I don't envey you! And, BUY A GOOD RESPIRATOR! I used a cheap one, and wasn't breathing right for a week afterward.

bjr48

Did you also use an older Boston Pro series? The current model is called the G2 and has a 6-9/16" mounting depth compared to the Pro's 4-3/4" depth. I don't think I can fit that one in there right??

Dissident

iTrader: (1)

um, maybe not.. the thing to do is after you remove the trim, set the sub in there and see how far it sticks up.. Maybe you can angle is in there, but that will make the isntall quite a bit toughter... But still doable one ay or another

bjr48

I stopped by Nissan again and from the sheetmetal floor to the top of the spare is a fraction under 7". With the new subs being something like 6-9/16" from under the top to the back of the magnet then adding in the thickness of the fiberglass and everything this would not work flush with the trunk floor. So I ordered a 10.5 pro from some warehouse on ebay. I'm off to start practicing fiberglassing.
Is this respirator good enough?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90840

I believe the key is to get one that blocks organic vapors, right?

Thanks for all of your help and wish me luck, you know what I am in for!

Dissident

iTrader: (1)

LOL, well, I didn't have the respirator at the time so I'm not sure, but I'm pretty sure that's the one. I actually ended up building my box taller than I planned (on accident) but since it is carpeted over there you can barely tell.... I did have to trim some of the interior panels to fit back on, tho.

You could also probably build the box flush and just have the sub sit a bit higher.... Maybe use some spacer rings or something.

When I did the fiberglassing, I used some cheap dollar store scissors to cut the fiberglass matt. when I'd start working, I'd fill up a bunch of 3 ounce dixie cups about 1/3 full of resin, then I'd drop in about 12-16 drops of the harderner into them one at a time, i.e. add harderner to one, use it up, then add to the next, and so forth. I ended up using just a little bit more harderner than what came with the resin. I used cheap dollar store brushes (see a budget theme here? ) when I was loaying up most of the fiberglass, but I finally broke down and bought a fiberglass roller, and it seemed to work a little better.

Oh, and I recomend just getting a box of latex gloves to work with; you'll probably go through a few pairs of those....

I used a dremel to cut the excess fiberglass, and MAKE SURE YOU USE GOGGLES (argh, my eyes! the goggles do nothing!) because you'll probably break more than a few cut-off wheels off the dremel. Use the respirator for that, too, since you really don't wan to breath fiberglass fumes.

I forget how much polyfill I used with the boston pro, but I'm pretty sure it mentions it in the installation directions...

bjr48

Got my car 3 weeks ago! I wanted to take out the styrofoam piece but I see because of the wires running underneath it that I will have to take out some trim pieces. The front wants to come out but the back won't clear the cables at all.
I want to take out the piece circled in yellow first then the trim between that and the strut brace above the felt piece, then take out the felt piece in blue. Right?? The back piece in yellow will just pull straight up right? I pull and pull but get nowhere. Just the start of some movement. Oh yes, I did take out the light already! I'm afraid I'm going to break the back piece though. Is there any prying technique I need instead of pulling striaght up? I think the felt piece is just held in with come clips according to the service manual and the trim above it will snap out easier than the back center piece.
How did you put down the box with all of the wiring and trunk release cable(?) running under there?
thanks

JimRHIT

iTrader: (6)

All of those pieces just pull out .... don't be afraid... they will come out

bjr48

So did you ever get this to fit nice without any interference from any of the interior panels? Did you do anything with the trunk release cable or wiring harness or 3/4" studs sticking up from the floor that are in the way of making this a much easier project. There is alot of room back there but it is decieving how difficult it is to get the placement just right!
Still happy with this place for the sub??

Dissident

iTrader: (1)

All the wiring is still there. When I layed down plastis to glass over, I jsut formed it around the shape, so there's a "channel" in the box for them. As for the screws sticking up, I jsut glassed around them too, and reinfornced with lots of fiberglass around them. I figure if anything, they help hold the box in.

I actually ended up builting the box just a tad too tall, so I ended up having to trim some of the interior.. trim to get the box to fit. Oh, well, even if I took the box out, you'd never notice.

I still love the sound of mine, and love the space I still have left.