Audio Install complete... pics inside -->
#21
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It does look great. Also looks like the XPel job went much better for you this time.
When we peeked into your car, my wife thought it didn't look good. Of course, I had to show her that the back end was still disassembled. Ohhhhhhh!
When we peeked into your car, my wife thought it didn't look good. Of course, I had to show her that the back end was still disassembled. Ohhhhhhh!
#23
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Originally posted by Goober
It does look great. Also looks like the XPel job went much better for you this time.
When we peeked into your car, my wife thought it didn't look good. Of course, I had to show her that the back end was still disassembled. Ohhhhhhh!
It does look great. Also looks like the XPel job went much better for you this time.
When we peeked into your car, my wife thought it didn't look good. Of course, I had to show her that the back end was still disassembled. Ohhhhhhh!
show her these pics.
#24
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Originally posted by SKiDaZZLe
$3k with parts and labor.. went with initial qoute...
we (I) changed the setup like 10 times. install took 5 days total.
$3k with parts and labor.. went with initial qoute...
we (I) changed the setup like 10 times. install took 5 days total.
I know, my installer is about to kill me... I keep changing stuff on him, calling him everyday... the car will have been there a week as of Saturday. My total cost was $5000, but I have more expensive components (Dynaudio, Zapco, IDMAX) and a little fancier work (plexiglass/fiberglass in the trunk, kick panels).
I'm gonna cruise down Sat to see their progress and may be able to get some "in-progress" pics.
Congrats again on the nice install!
#25
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Dude, that is a SCHWEET install. As is always the case with car audio, and especially subwoofer installs, it's ALL IN THE INSTALL!!! That is a very well done enclosure, and my experience with subwoofer installs done correctly behind seats, is that they do just fine. One does not necessarily need to bouce the sub off the glass in the hatch. I'm sure this vehicle sounds sweet.
One quick question--I'm planning a similar install, but was planning on the JL 500/5 amp. Do you think this amp will fit under the false bottom of the "glove compartment," even though it is about 6 inches longer than the JL 300/2 you had installed?
One quick question--I'm planning a similar install, but was planning on the JL 500/5 amp. Do you think this amp will fit under the false bottom of the "glove compartment," even though it is about 6 inches longer than the JL 300/2 you had installed?
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Originally posted by MSGarrett1
One quick question--I'm planning a similar install, but was planning on the JL 500/5 amp. Do you think this amp will fit under the false bottom of the "glove compartment," even though it is about 6 inches longer than the JL 300/2 you had installed?
One quick question--I'm planning a similar install, but was planning on the JL 500/5 amp. Do you think this amp will fit under the false bottom of the "glove compartment," even though it is about 6 inches longer than the JL 300/2 you had installed?
m
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Thanks. I'm thinking the way you went is pretty much the way to go. I may wait and see if JL audio comes out with a stealthbox for this vehicle, and see what they do. I've also considered putting the JL 500/5 in the place where you have your subs (in a nice custom display), mounting the component crossovers in the glove compartment, and finding some install that works well for a sub in the hatch. But this configuration seems like a huge waste of sub space behind the driver's seat, and a huge waste of what little trunk/storage space we have in back in the first place.
I'm also considering using Focal 165K2 components in the front and a Focal 6.5" coaxial in the rear instead of the Boston components you chose. But I'm definitely going with JL amp/s and JL sub/s.
Here's another idea. Mount an aftermarket head unit in one of the little storage bins, like where the DVD/nav unit is, and run everything from there. One could leave the stock stereo looking stock (look somewhere else theives), without actually using the stock stereo at all. What do you think?
I'm also considering using Focal 165K2 components in the front and a Focal 6.5" coaxial in the rear instead of the Boston components you chose. But I'm definitely going with JL amp/s and JL sub/s.
Here's another idea. Mount an aftermarket head unit in one of the little storage bins, like where the DVD/nav unit is, and run everything from there. One could leave the stock stereo looking stock (look somewhere else theives), without actually using the stock stereo at all. What do you think?
#28
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i didnt go aftermarket head unit cause of the nav integration. once that is figured out by someone, and hopefully metra or someone will have kits for the headunit plates, i will go that route.
neither storage space is available to me, as i have the nav din now, and getting the CD changer din in a while...
m
neither storage space is available to me, as i have the nav din now, and getting the CD changer din in a while...
m
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Originally posted by SKiDaZZLe
neither storage space is available to me, as i have the nav din now, and getting the CD changer din in a while...
neither storage space is available to me, as i have the nav din now, and getting the CD changer din in a while...
#30
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Originally posted by nizl
Hey, are you getting the changer from the dealer? If so, how much did they quote you?
Hey, are you getting the changer from the dealer? If so, how much did they quote you?
I have a list of all the Nissan accessories for the Z with prices if anyone wants to know anything else.
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Hey SKiDaZZLe, quick question: You say you're using the factory head unit, right? But your install shows a set of RCA pre-amp cables going into the JL 300/2. Did someone solder speaker level wires to these RCA's and then connect the RCA's to the amp with the input sensitivity set to high on the amp (800mV - 8V)?
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Ditto...looks very clean. I'm thinking of having Tweeters do mine too. This proves they're very good at what they do
Bet that **** bumps like nothin else
Bet that **** bumps like nothin else
#35
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Originally posted by MSGarrett1
Here's another idea. Mount an aftermarket head unit in one of the little storage bins, like where the DVD/nav unit is, and run everything from there. One could leave the stock stereo looking stock (look somewhere else theives), without actually using the stock stereo at all. What do you think?
Here's another idea. Mount an aftermarket head unit in one of the little storage bins, like where the DVD/nav unit is, and run everything from there. One could leave the stock stereo looking stock (look somewhere else theives), without actually using the stock stereo at all. What do you think?
#36
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Originally posted by SKiDaZZLe
$3k with parts and labor.. went with initial qoute...
$3k with parts and labor.. went with initial qoute...
You'll have to drop a Slayer disc in it to let me see how really good it is.
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Originally posted by droidekaus
F**K THAT! That thing better sound like God for that kind of money. I'd have a hard time dropping change like that on car audio.
You'll have to drop a Slayer disc in it to let me see how really good it is.
F**K THAT! That thing better sound like God for that kind of money. I'd have a hard time dropping change like that on car audio.
You'll have to drop a Slayer disc in it to let me see how really good it is.
i now have a track with leather and a nice stereo... go get some rays wheels and brembo brakes, and lets compare bottom lines...
i went with txstyle to go price brembos... $3200, my friend, for just the fronts. any nice lightweight wheels will cost well over $2000 (not including tires). i spent less than $4000 on "touring up" my track.
garrett: they chopped off one end of the rca pair to connect to the high level from the headunit. the amp can take
m
#38
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Originally posted by SKiDaZZLe
ok brad... the bose sounds worse than my stock system. hahahahah.
i now have a track with leather and a nice stereo... go get some rays wheels and brembo brakes, and lets compare bottom lines...
i went with txstyle to go price brembos... $3200, my friend, for just the fronts. any nice lightweight wheels will cost well over $2000 (not including tires). i spent less than $4000 on "touring up" my track.
ok brad... the bose sounds worse than my stock system. hahahahah.
i now have a track with leather and a nice stereo... go get some rays wheels and brembo brakes, and lets compare bottom lines...
i went with txstyle to go price brembos... $3200, my friend, for just the fronts. any nice lightweight wheels will cost well over $2000 (not including tires). i spent less than $4000 on "touring up" my track.
P.S. Remember to tell me how much non-heated leather sucks when it gets bitterly cold this winter.
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Originally posted by droidekaus
I don't give a **** what I'm driving. I'm not spending three grand on car audio. I've got more important things to buy like $4K guitars.
I don't give a **** what I'm driving. I'm not spending three grand on car audio. I've got more important things to buy like $4K guitars.
And now I'm spending $5k on my Z stereo..
So, you lost me Brad? What's your point, you really like Slayer to sound like **** coming out of the BLOSE system? Not much of a musician then...
#40
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Originally posted by nizl
I've got a $2k custom Les Paul... $2k Mesa/Boogie Rectifier... $10k home studio...
And now I'm spending $5k on my Z stereo..
So, you lost me Brad? What's your point, you really like Slayer to sound like **** coming out of the BLOSE system? Not much of a musician then...
I've got a $2k custom Les Paul... $2k Mesa/Boogie Rectifier... $10k home studio...
And now I'm spending $5k on my Z stereo..
So, you lost me Brad? What's your point, you really like Slayer to sound like **** coming out of the BLOSE system? Not much of a musician then...
Hahaha. Well, ****. You got me. I guess I've got other things to pay for as well like a 4100 sq. ft. home. Nissan's supposed to fix my BLOSE, if they don't, then I'll take my refund for the BLOSE (hahaha, I must be dreaming) and do something about the stereo. Still, there's no f**king way I'd spend $3K-$5K on a system in a $35K car. Period. I'd NEVER get that money back. $1K tops.