Finally finished my stereo installation, all for around $750. It rattles like a **** when I crank it... dynamat will cure that. I don't play it very loudly, so it's not really an issue.

What I went with:

> Stock non-bose head
> David Navone line converter (NE-774V)
> Infinity 62.5i rear
> Infinity 60.5cs components front
> Infinity Basslink
> MTX 404 4 channel (sum out to basslink)
> Stinger wiring

Total cost: $765

Pics:

Before install:


Torn apart:


Tweeter seat:


Tweeter mounted:


Crossover, woofer, and tweeter in:


Amp mounted:


Basslink:


Sub adjustment in armrest:


Zoom out:


All closed up (bose panel on the way):

 

Nice install, you improved the sound greatly, but kept the stealth look

 

Looks very nice Pburgh.

You just answered one question that I've been wondering about recently - that is, what can be done with the stock HU as far as upgrades.

From the looks of it, you've only replaced the stock speakers and have not added a big sub-woofer, correct?

Can you give me (and any other car audio newbies) the quick and dirty explanation of what each of the components you bought does. Or if it's easier, can you point me to info on what's needed and why it's needed when upgrading the stock setup?

Thanks,
Dave

 

Hey man the install looks really great!!!! I'm glad you got your amp problem solved

Are you coming to any local meets?

--mike

 

Hell yes, Mike... I'll be at the meets as soon as my schedule calms down... I've been in NY nearly every weekend for the past few months. this is my last weekend in NY then I'll be around! So much for having a relaxing summer.

Dave, here's a run down of my thinking with the install:

Stock non-bose head

I wanted to keep the stock look everywhere. The audio controls in the stock head are sufficient for my needs.

David Navone line converter (NE-774V)

Needed to covert the speaker level outs (front r&l, rear r&l) of the stock head unit into line level (RCA), which then run into the MTX 4 channel amp, then back to the new speakers.

Infinity 62.5i rear

Looking back, I probably would have gone with a speaker without a tweeter here. I ended up disconnecting the tweeters in the rear, they were messing up the overall sound in the car. Decent midbass... nothing to write home about

Infinity 60.5cs components front

Love them! The highs might be a little to tin-y, but I can deal with it (treble - 1 on the head). Again, good midbass... and I love the mounting options for the tweeters.

Infinity Basslink

It was between the Basslink and a custom box with two JL 8w0's in the stock location. I went with the Basslink due to the price and ease of install. It's a HUGE step down from the 12W3 I had in my GTI... but it fills in the gaps that the other speakers create. With the sub turned up halfway, the system sounds very, very tight. I like being able to access the level in my arm rest too!

MTX 404 4 channel (sum out to basslink)

MTX quality, enough power for me, and it looks nice mounted in the glove box.

My goal with the stereo was to get a clean, tight system without breaking the bank... I think I did that. I was able to sell some parts off of my GTI and cover my new stereo install. I wanted to keep everything stock looking and also keep ALL of my trunk usable. For $765, I think it sounds damn nice

Let me know if you need any more info.

 

Pburgh

Thanks for the details. I assume you went with an amp just to have more power driving the front and rear speakers; or was it because the stock HU doesn't have enough power to drive them?

I'm trying to figure out the Basslink install. I can see that it's in the box behind the seat. Which direction is the speaker pointing?

Thanks again,
Dave

 

You're right, I got the 4 channel amp because I wanted a little more juice than the stock head can provide. It pushes 50 watts per channel, good enough for me. I doubt the stock power comes anywhere near 50 watts/channel. It's plenty loud at only volume 12 or 13.

The basslink install is pretty easy, remove the rear trim, test fit the unit, mark your holes for mounting. Drill them out a little, then screw that sucker in there. There's a 10" sub, along with a 10" radiator in the Basslink, the sub is pointing down if I recall correctly (radiator to the top).

The only hard part is removing the bracket that hangs down in the stock sub location (only needed to remove the left one). It's a duplicate of the glove box mount. You simply drill out the three welds holding it in. It took me an hour just to get the thing out! I actually tore the metail in half after a while (hulk smash!). I'll have to take a picture of that some day, I saved it for memory's sake.

The only thing bugging me at this point is the buzzing when the system is turned up loud. I rolled all the windows up and walked around the outside of the car. The left tailight rattles big time. Other than that, most of the vibration comes from inside. Dynamat to the rescue one of these days.

Let me know if you need anything else. If you decide to install yours, I'm more than willing to answer any questions.

 

Thanks. I may try to do something in stages. New speakers then maybe an amp. If I feel the need, I'll add in the sub.

 

The tweets came out nice, I like it.

 

how long did the install take?

 

well... it took most of saturday and sunday, along with a few hours throughout the week. I wasn't out ALL day long though. I'd say I spent about 20 hours combined. I took a long time on the dremel, didn't want to muck it up. Then my converter died, so I spent about 4 hours trying to figure out why only 3 channels were working!

 

where did you get that blank cover over the original bose sub?

 

pburgh,

Did you share the cables for the basslink right after the converter (something like a Y splitter)? I am not sure what u mean by sum out at the amp.

I have a basslink myself for 3 months now. But I am upgrading. How difficult was it to take off the HU to tap into the speaker wires (I am assuming you done it this way).

Any feedback on the quality of the converter? How did you pay for it? Any links?

Thanks,
Tony

 

I got the bose panel from Dan Tech at midway parts in Phoenix. He's super helpful, I think it was $6 on special for Z people. His email is midwaypartsteam@hotmail.com.

Tony, "sum out" is just the line output coming out of the MTX amp (summation of all the input signal FR, LR, RR, RL). It was one of the features I wanted in my amp, so I could run RCA's to my Basslink and use the crossover to cut out the high stuff.

The line converter is great. I got it from David Navone. It accepts my FR, FL, RR, RL signal, and dumps it in to rca's for front and rear. The quality is very good. You can pop the top off and adjust the pots for more or less juice if you want.

His converters are on: http://www.davidnavone.com/adaptor_products.htm

I got the new version of the N-774V, has a better wiring harness apparently. I paid $36 shipped, came in two days!

I think that's everything, let me know if I left anything out.

Thanks : )

 

pburgh,

Just curious where you placed the converter? I am planning to put it in the storage compartment (behind passenger side). Would that be too far?

Could I use both channels only in the meantime cause I plan to use the rear speakers to tap into the converter. Once funds become available, then I might tap the fronts with a new amp?

At what volt did you set that converter ? 4??

Thanks,
Tony

 

hay pburgh
how does the basslink sound.is it good for the price,thinking about getting one but wanting wait for somebody to tell me if it is worth the money
thanks

 

Tony, the converter comes set to nearly 10v, so i just left it there. I spoke with David Navone and he said to keep it where it is if you don't have a reason to touch it, so I listened to the man He also recommended placing the converter as close as possible to the amp (cable length wise). So i used super short Monster RCA's (1.5 ft). You can't see the converter, but it's mounted directly below the amp, under the glovebox.

I tapped into the wire behind the stereo (very easy to do by the way), ran the spliced in wire all the way back to the glovebox (by way of the center console), into the converter, then to the amp. Yes, you can run just your rear speakers into the converter... I assume you'd be powering a sub amp off of that? What you could do is splice in some extensions and keep your speakers connected to the head unit, then send that splice into the converter. I did this with my gf's sentra and it worked perfectly. She has her stereo completely stock except for the 774 patched into the rear speakers.... running a JL 12W3 (boom).

As far as the basslink goes, coming for bigger systems, it's a little light. But, it is by no means too little for this car. I'm not bass crazy like i used to be, so this fits quite nicely into the mix. I would strongly suggest dynmatting the majority of the rear to prevent rattles. This car shakes like a... maracca??? Once dynmatted (or brown bread), the bass will bump nice a clear.

 

pburgh,

Great instructions. I already have the rear speakers spliced (at the rear) when I was installing the basslink. I just use the speaker input (no converter at that time).


But the basslink is kind of light. I am going with a new setup. I am building a box in the stock location with an Infinity perfect 10.1d power by a phoenix gold 5 r mono amp.

I will get a second amp to power all all four speakers in a few months.

What is the color combo when looking behind the HU unit (nonbose)? I will need need to splice just the fronts as I already have done for the rears (I will use the Y rca splitter or use the preamp outputs)

Side note: I am not sure if I should stay with the stock HU or buy an Alpine HU 9833 for $320 shipped. I like the stealth idea though. Do you have good sound quality from the amp speakers?

Thanks dude,

Tony

 

I am very pleased with the sound coming from the stock head. It's pretty damn clear. I had a Sony ES head in my Tacoma, and a decent Sony in my GTI with the monsoon speakers... this setup sounds MUCH better.

I can't find the pdf online anymore (Mike Lee provided the original PDF but the website is down), so here's a scan of the PDF. The colors are NOT correct, but the letters and corresponding locations are. It worked for Mike and I. So, ignore the colors and just compare the plug with the diagram, bingo!



Let me know if you need anything else! I pm'ed you as well.

 

Nice work Pburgh!!! I like the stock look.
I installed infinitys in my TL.
Kind of debating if I should get infinitys for my Z
Work like yours make me want to stick with Infinity.