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Subwoofer in stock location

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Old 04-23-2011 | 07:31 PM
  #41  
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How would you rate the Fat Mat?
Old 04-23-2011 | 08:44 PM
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I've got nothing to compare it to, but if I rap my knuckles on the speaker enclosure it sounds like a solid block of concrete. Last Summer I also used it in my '92 Alfa Spider when I was replacing the carpeting. I did the floor pans and the gearbox tunnel, and it deadened the road noise very well. The best part was that I used two layers on the driver's side floor, to insulate the heat from the headers and cat, and now I can drive in just socks, without burning my right heel on a long drive.
Old 04-24-2011 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by dcains
Here's my setup, which is very similar to "asteffy"s. Great minds think alike

Actually, my pic hosting site is down, so I'll post pics later.



do you recommend deadening the box itself, did it make a difference?
Old 04-24-2011 | 09:04 PM
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I didn't do any comparison, and this is the first time I've ever used the FatMat. But the box is totally dead and airtight, and that's how it should be. As for the FatMat on the metal panels, you can tap on the metal and it really doesn't seem much different before and after. I had a 40 sq. ft. kit, so I just tried to use it up.
Old 07-29-2011 | 01:33 PM
  #45  
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Mine:
- JL Audio 10W3v3-2 10” Subwoofer
- JL Audio 500/1 Class D Monoblock Amplifier (on top)
- JL Audio 4 & 8 Gauge Wire Amplifier Installation Power Kit

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Old 06-29-2012 | 06:31 AM
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going to try to make one next weekend. Any suggestions/ recommendations on what sounded the best? Trying to just mount the sub into the stock location or making a box and sticking it there?
Old 07-05-2012 | 02:02 PM
  #47  
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Holy thread revival. Just wanted to answer his question, even though hes probably already asked it elsewhere. Make a box, its worth the 10 bucks youll spend on wood and glue (more if you use dyna/fat mat.)
Old 05-28-2013 | 12:28 PM
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Does anyone have the dimensions for a good 10" sub box that they made in the stock cubby hole?
Old 05-28-2013 | 02:24 PM
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Mine, which is pictured above is 18" x 12.5" x 6.5", out of 3/4" MDF. It seems to be the largest size which will fit if you just want to make a box with 90-degree angles. BrainLeash69's box, looks like it has a bit more internal volume, which may be important, depending on the subwoofer you choose. Either way, a sealed enclosure is the only way to go.
Old 05-29-2013 | 05:27 AM
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thanks i will probably get started on that this weekend
How does yours sound by the way?
Old 05-29-2013 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by vicjr24350z
thanks i will probably get started on that this weekend
How does yours sound by the way?
I think it sounds great. It's been installed now for almost 3 years, and I've got no intentions of changing a thing. The HU is a Kenwood, the other speakers are Boston components, and the amps are JL (one 1-channel and one 4-channel).
Old 05-30-2013 | 06:25 PM
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Okay, so i like how both of you guys did it and i am looking to do about the same, i just have a couple of questions, what size cables or what are the references for the cables to hook up the sub to the amp? Also what size amp did you use ? i have a 10" type R. Lastly, how the hell did you guys strip the plastic pieces off of the rear speakers ? thanks a lot.
Old 05-30-2013 | 07:01 PM
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very nice.... if i ever tear out the Bose system i will defiantly be doing something similar to put a 10" in
Old 05-31-2013 | 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by radiivan
Okay, so i like how both of you guys did it and i am looking to do about the same, i just have a couple of questions, what size cables or what are the references for the cables to hook up the sub to the amp? Also what size amp did you use ? i have a 10" type R. Lastly, how the hell did you guys strip the plastic pieces off of the rear speakers ? thanks a lot.
I don't recall the model numbers for my JL amps, but the sub is 250W x1 and the main amp is I think 100W x4. I used two 4 ga. cables from the battery to the amps, the same for the amp grounds to the chassis, and probably 12 or 14 ga. for the speaker wires. More than sufficient for my setup. I'm just listening to music at a reasonable level while driving, or washing/waxing.

The plastic interior panels all just come off the body with gentle pulling, but you have to remove them in the right order. You obviously pull the panels overlapping from the top first, and so on. The only fasteners are the screws around the glove box. There are some threads on this site showing specific instructions for removing the door panels and installing speakers, as well as for the rear panels and speakers. Same for installing the head unit. Search for them, and become familiar with what's involved before getting started.
Old 05-31-2013 | 03:28 AM
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Thanks a lot dcain, very helpful.
Old 05-31-2013 | 03:56 AM
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I have a Wicked CAS magic box with JL audio 10W3V3 for sale.


https://my350z.com/forum/audio-video...e-sub-box.html
Old 01-25-2014 | 05:21 PM
  #57  
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how bad does it sound if i just put an alpine type R in the original stock position?
Old 01-26-2014 | 12:45 PM
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Does anyone have the dimensions of the space available? Or can I measure the glove compartment and design from there? Are the spaces similar in dimensions?
Thanks.
Old 01-26-2014 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by soldierchon
how bad does it sound if i just put an alpine type R in the original stock position?
Not bad at all, I got one in the original behind the drivers seat stock location.
Old 04-08-2014 | 07:54 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Dan Garcia
Not bad at all, I got one in the original behind the drivers seat stock location.
did you use dynamat or build a box?


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