jpetrini06

I apologize if this is mentioned in a previous post, and I do not have a 350z, but I am highly interested in the easycar push start system. My question is how does it bypass the steering wheel lock? I have searched the Web, and cannot find a straight answer. The vehicle I am planning on installing in is a 2004 Cadillac escalade ext. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Jordan 406-968-3652

jakyle

iTrader: (10)

jpetrini,

The easy car doesn't have a way to bypass the steering wheel lock (pin/mechanical) on the 350z. You have to cut a non transpondered blank and insert it into the column and turn to the ACC position (basically the steering lock is never on).

drizzle77

im not able to get my Easycar E3-B to work..
i managed to get the car started through remote...
but the push button start returns error with single parking light flash.(engine on error in the table of errrors in manual)

my car is a 2008 mitsubishi lancer (auto)

here is the detailed connections list i have done..
some connections are temporarly not connected since needed to test the main functions
i have connected only the sensor wires to enable the push start and the remote start functions
(please correct me if im wrong anywhere)

CN1
---

1.(yellow) --- starter wire in the vehicle direction
2.(white) --- not connected since no ignition 2 in my car
3.(green) --- ignition wire in my ignition switch harness
4.(red/white) --- +12 volt supply
5.(blue) --- output to accessory wire going in the vehicle direction
6.(red) --- +12 volt supply

note:i havnt connected the relay for the starter kill

CN2
---

connected only ground with int : 1-5 connect (without door motor)

CN3
---

1.(yellow) - door unlock
2.(green) - door lock
3.(violet) - not connected since not required for testing
4.(gray) - not connected
5.(brown) - not connected
6.(white) - not connected (listens to the relay trigger to count the flashes)
7.(orange) - not connected
8.(blue) - not connected
9.(violet) --- bypass module not connected cause the key is in the keyhole or kept near the keyhole..
10.(black) --- connected to a ground (-)

CN4
---

1.(green) ------------------------------------------------- not connected (engine running sensing set to noise)

since my tach wire is reading 12 volts before the start of car and 14 volts when the car is started
the unit doesnt start car since the alternator line needs less than 5 volts before start and 7-14v after start of car)

DOUBT --- how does the unit sense the electrical noise without connecting this wire!! my remote start works without connecting this wire,..


2.(brown) +parking light input / lock input --------------- not connected

3.(yellow) (+) foot brake input --------------------------- foot brake input +12v when stepped on foot brake

4.(red) (+) door trigger input ---------------------------- door triggerinput +5v when door is closed

5.(red/black) (-)door trigger input ----------------------- not connected because 4 is connected

6.(white) (-) parking brake /hand brake ------------------- connected to +12 volt temporarly to immitate parking brake engaged

7.(+) acc input to keyox ---------------------------------- connected to acc wire in the ignition harness that goes to the keybox side

8.(orange/black) preheating light input ------------------- not connected

9.( violet/black) trunk trigger input --------------------- connected to +12 volt to immitate trunk closed



THE JUMPER IN THE UNIT IS CUT --- auto transmission

switch 1 set to -- NOISE
switch 2 set to OFF -- LOW



------------------------------------------------------------------------

connected cn5(easy door lock)(knock pad) ,cn7(antenna),cn8(start button) ,cn10(lf module)

cn6 (shock sensor) -- not connected cause not required for testing the push button and remote start)

cn9 --not connected cause not required for testing the push button and remote start

---------

i registered key on the knock pad (i think cause its confusing )
when i knock and input the deafult 1-1-1-1 code nothin happens..
but after fiddling with it remote starter started working which makes me assume that code is registered..
any idea how to reset the code?? is 1111 the factory code??

Dust

ok this system is confusing ...... but your write up is extremely helpful..... I have done one thing differently just to save a few bucks.... took my spare key (the one I cut for the wheel pin lock) and removed the micro chip, opened the factory immobilizer and put the chip right where the antenna comes out. So no need to buy the bypass module
Buuuuttttt..... I do have a problem I'm sure I followed your pictures exactly (I have an 06 GT) but my car is always on now I'm guessing from the ignition and power wire being connected from the key cylinder? and if i unplug the cylinder harness then the car starts but shuts off after a couple seconds.
Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

jakyle

iTrader: (10)

Dust, It sounds like your system is having issues recognizing that the car is on, check that the engine-on LED (inside the brain) is green after your car starts... if its red the input you are providing (either from an injector or the ECU) is not working properly.

elik745i

Hi everyone, NEED HELP

I have purchased E8-B model, which has basicaly the same unit. I've hooked up some of the wires (not all!!!). The problem is when I try to hook up door sensing wire (red/black for - or red for +12) siren goes off. When I disconnect and connect CN1, CN2, CN3 siren stops some time, but signal lights keep blinking. If door sensing wires is not hooked, then siren does not start, but I can't neither enter 4 digit pin nor register non of the remotes (I have 2 remote keys included with this alarm).
Remotes which is included in the package should be registered after 4 digit knock registration otherwise they wount work am I correct? if so, how I can register 4 digit pin if alarm is armed? is it normal?
The rest of the functions: Pushstart, remote start and so on, does not function either, however when I push it changes from off->ACC->ON, but no crancking.

Car is Toyota Hilux
I simply pulled off key connector, removed insulator off the wires and connected alarm wires to them temporarily

My thoughts are: Either I have not connected all the wires: I have not connect parking brake nor parking signal yet.
I did not cut ACC wire from the key box there for it mulfunction
Alarm and included remotes from different packages there for base unit is armed initialy and there for I can't neither register 4 digit pin nor use remotes (which would be disaster as I'll not be able to return it to seller)

Did anyone face with this and figured out the way?

Can base unit to be reset (disarmed, returned to default?)

Thanks

Dust

Thank you jakyle. That helped me trouble shoot my problem. The wire I was using from the injector wasn't the right one so i disconnected it and moved the jumper to "noise". And I hooked up my relay wrong. Got it all working perfect then my start button broke lol any one know where I can get a replacement button?

Kiwimik

I need the correct wiring Colors- plug as a mate pulled them out of the carrier. Left side window. 2003 350z
Any help would be great. Thanks

TJNevis

Hey sssmasss,

I'm hoping you can help me out! I bought 2 Easycar E7B units and installed them in 2 different Pontiac Grand Prix's. I can't get the remote start to work in either car. I came across your post from 2011 showing the wire diagram. I'm seeing a few differences from my setup, so I want to see if you can help me understand.

I don't have the ignition relay hooked up like you do, but can you explain the black X's? At first I thought it was a cut symbol, but then you have it for the ACC, starter 1 and starter 2, but that wouldn't make sense to cut those wires before they get to the key. Can you explain what you mean there?

My second question, is probably just because I'm not an installer, I get in the installation manual that the output wires like + Output to Starter is the unit sending 12 volts to the starter wire, the +12 Power (red) wire and - Ground (black) inputs are self explanatory, but the triggers mess me up. For the red and red/black wires in CN4 (+ door trigger and - door trigger), does that mean the wire should be positive normally, negative when the door opens (red) and negative, positive when the door is open (red/black)?

I've got a longer post here at the12volt.com: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...101&KW=tjnevis, but your diagram could be my answer if I can be sure to understand everything correctly.


Thank you!

Dust

What exactly are you asking for? The drivers window harness color code?

Dust

The cuts before the key are for easycar models with the push start button. Cause the button will control the ignition. As for the door triggers. I believe you need the negative wire. A quick google search should confirm this.

Dust

Just letting everyone know. This alarm has been a nightmare. Hard to understand the install manual. The antenna plug was messed up (I had to fix it). The start button fell off the wires on the back cause of poor soldering (I resoldered it). That worked great for 2 weeks but now the brain is malfunctioning and turning the car on and off constantly. Anyone know where I can buy a E7B brain for cheap?

Dust

UGH! I got a new unit. everything works but the remote start, it starts and runs for a few seconds then shuts off!! Sooo fed up with this unit.

TJNevis

I've had a terrible time with the Easycar too. I've been working on it since March and I am almost (finally) done installing it in 2 cars. The 2 E7-B brains I have had an issue with 'hood open', 6 flashes, and wouldn't remote start. Come to find out there are about 500 M7700 series brains with this issue. The one thing that makes Easycar suck is their quality control. I decided to ditch the push button and I got an E702S (M7000) brain. The instructions were more clear and the wire layout makes more sense too. I just used all of the E7-B peripherals I already had, including the remote.

I found an installer who has been in the business for 17 years and it turns out Easycar is (almost) Compustar. I guess a guy worked at Compustar, separated and did his own thing in Korea, taking the rights he owned from Compustar and created Easycar. To this day, Easycar and Compustar share technologies, like the Easy Door (knock lock/unlock), Compustar's version is RPS Touch.

Anyway, Compustar is coming out with a new pro series unit that has EZ-GO installed in the remote, just like Easycar's RFID/LF technology, in the 4th quarter 2013. They have EZ-GO now, but you have to add that onto your keychain. Compustar also has other cool modules you can add, like Drone. I wish I knew of Compustar before I got waist deep into Easycar.

Dust

The push start and hands free unlock was the only reason I got this unit...... Ok the price played a factor too lol but I guess I got what I paid for. I am happy with the unit it just sucks that I can't get the remote start to work and the hands free distance could be a few feet farther.

sssmasss

iTrader: (13)

damn. i didnt know so many people got issues. i would help but it is kinda complicated and i dont have lots of access to internet right now. But i will be back in the states by November and would help you guys. However, i dont think i have the installation manual or the guide book anymore. someone please post it up so i can read up on it again. thanks

Dust

Install manual.
http://www.easycaralarm.com/data/ins...E5-B_771AS.pdf

Dust

User manual.
http://www.easycaralarm.com/data/use..._userguide.pdf

nightrieder

Im installing an E8B in my 78 280z and im having the same issue as jakyle. anyone know whats going on with that? except my manual says 3 then 1 flash means the alarm is armed.. but my remote it disarm and arm (or makes the parking lights flash atleast.) but still wont start my car.. will go acc and ign but no crank.. =(

nightrieder

I figured it out.. for anyone having the same issues (start button error "three blinks followed by one blink") you need to have your door locks hooked up and possibly the siren as well. got mine working perfect today. dont give up on this system shes great once you work out the bugs!!