I wanted to share some pics of my homemade brake duct kit. It was pain in the rear to get the hose fed through the passanger side because of the power steer oil cooler and the windershield wiper fluid container. I had to relocate the ps oil cooler to get it to work. I custom made my brackets at the end of the hose to point it to the rotors.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg

 

bonus looks slick. what kind of duct is that?

 

nifty!

 

Its 3" brake duct tubing I bought at a local autoparts store. It was really expensive though. I paid almost $60 for 9 ft. They guy at the store said it could withstand upto 300 degrees.

 

Very nice, you beat me to it. Did you use those plastic things in the bumper to hold them in place?

 

Looks really stealthily good! Can you make me a set please please

 

congratulations on your ingenuity. well done. you should design a kit and sell it en mass. all the track guys would buy it.

 

+1 Two questions. 1) How did you attach the hose at the nose of the car? 2) How did you attach the hose at the hub? I see a screw through the hose at the hub, but can't tell what its attached to. I *NEED* to do this.

ahm

 

Yes I did. I made the hole small enough where I had to work it in. I will try to get more pics this weekend. If you need ideas for yours just let me know.

It would probably be cheaper for you to make your own. The parts used to make it are relatively expensive. The duct hose cost me $60 dollars alone. I can maybe make the brackets for the hose that go on the rotors. The brackets would save people that want to make their own some time and effort. All they would have to do is route the hose to the wheel well and connect it to the bracket and make sure it had clearance.

Thanks for the compliment.

I would make a kit and sell it but someone already said I copied their design, which I didn't.


The hole in the front of the car is small enough where I had to basically screw the hose in. That keeps it from backing out. The one at the hub uses a nut and bolt with washers and the the size of the pipe is big enough where its a snug fit.

 

Isn't it more effective to point it into senter of the rotor instead of braking surface?

 

Yes but it is very difficult to actually get the duct to the center of the rotor because of the shock and lower control arm. The bracket is cocked in order to still get some air into the center and since the rotor will be spinning it should still help keep rotor temps down.

 

Vlad, remember that the wheel is rotating very fast and that creates a circulation of air that is being forced into the general area. I see where you are coming from, but his design allows for a tremendous amount of needed airflow. The only that that I would be concerned about is the uneven cooling of the rotors because air is being blown on the inboard side of the rotor. Maybe because of your placement of the air exit it will vent more evenly. I have seen some that are really close to the rotor and temperature issues could have been a problem. You have a pyrometer?? That's the test there. Too bad you didn't get some before temps.

Thanks again for the inspirartion to get me off my butt and get this done

-Steve

 

You know.....I'd really consider just getting a set of brackets from you. That would save me a TON of time. The rest is just assembly.

-Steve

 

This upcoming weekend I have another track event on a 2.1 mile course with a 1/2 mile straight so I can gather some test data. I plan on running one 20 minute session with the inlets covered and then recording the temps with a pyrometer. I then plan to remove the covers on the inlets and run another 20 minute session and record the temps again to see if there is a difference and if the placement of the bracket is sufficient.

No problem...just let me gather some test data to see if there isn't going to be problems during race conditions. I want to make sure the brackets are going to hold up and if there isn't going to be uneven cooling on the rotors and so forth.

 

I know during the testing of the new corvette at Nur, they were tinkering with the brake cooling ducts and it actually provided a bit of lift on the nose of the car. They made some changes or didn't make some, I can't remember, but it was an issue. Anyway, your test data will become very valuable. Good luck,

Steve

 

I didn't think about the aero part of it but hopefully is negligible. I will keep you guys informed on the temperature data.

 

Very interested. Keep us updated. I seen a kit similar to this a while back here:

http://www.ntechengineering.com/inde...=6&model_id=10

 

I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but those brake-ducks are going to warp your disks very quickly. They will do more harm than you can imagine. What you've got there is a duct that brings cold air on one side of the disk, while the other side will rain hot. That means uneven colling of the disks (ie. will cool quicker on one side). This will bend the disk (ie. warp it) at best, and at worst may even couse it to crack.

As far as I know, blowing cold-air on one side of the disk is one of the biggest don't-dos for anyone who tracks their car as it can lead to some pretty serious failures.

Though, what you're supposed to do (and all OME braking-ducts do that), is to bring the cold air right into the middle on the disk (ie. from front on) ... that is what the ventilated disks have the holes in there for. Blowing cold air in there will distribute the cold air evenly throughout the disk. This will not cool your disks evenly, but avoid any warping/brakage of the disks. You might be able to adopt your system with minimal fuss to re-position the cool air flow like that.

ps. I just notcied that someone else has mentioned this. Though the effects of what you have there might not have been properly highlighted.

 

Please look at this Stillen Kit and tell me where it is aimed at.

 

Well I tested the ducts under track conditions and I had a small problem. When I put the front tires to -3 degrees of camber my wheels would rub the 3" hose and eventually put a hole it in it. I am going to trying a 2.5" tube and see if that will work.

The rotor is not stationary it is spinning meaning the whole rotor rotor is receiving air. The only problem I can see is that inside face of the rotor will be cooler than the outside edge. To solve that problem ideally I would have aimed it toward the center but its very difficult to get the duct in the center due to the suspension pieces. I cocked the bracket in order to still get some air flow into the center of the rotor.