need help on springs.
Originally Posted by Gsedan35
You forgot how he's running more front spring rate. The idea is the same as running more front ARB (the plus being less camber change on braking vs stiffer ARB only). Leverage more to the front tires to keep their front contact patches in the game. Tires that roll over and play dead can't contribute.
Right. And a stiffer front spring rate adds to the understeer. Going for the same size tires fornt and rear isn't contributing to having the front tires not roll over at least more than the rears on a staggered setup.....
Originally Posted by Gsedan35
Ground control made one set for the Z, but decided that fighting to make a easy to adjust rear height sytem was not worth the effort for production. That one set ended up on ebay, I emailed the seller, setup had something of the order of 600lbs springs.
You can make your own front coilover setup like I did by raiding the Koni motorsport's catalog, they have sleave coilover parts. To address the issue top mounts I used Tein tapered springs which allowed me to reuse the oem upper mounts, I fabbed a adaptor out of 6061 aluminum to convert the 70mm ID to seat on the 65 ID Koni mount. Even at 448lbs in rate, I kept on running out of bump travel, so I sold the Koni's. BcRacing can sell you a front upper pillowball mount and they can sell their rear spring adjustment system. Without shocks that have shorter bodies and piston rod lengths, I wouldn't bother.
You can make your own front coilover setup like I did by raiding the Koni motorsport's catalog, they have sleave coilover parts. To address the issue top mounts I used Tein tapered springs which allowed me to reuse the oem upper mounts, I fabbed a adaptor out of 6061 aluminum to convert the 70mm ID to seat on the 65 ID Koni mount. Even at 448lbs in rate, I kept on running out of bump travel, so I sold the Koni's. BcRacing can sell you a front upper pillowball mount and they can sell their rear spring adjustment system. Without shocks that have shorter bodies and piston rod lengths, I wouldn't bother.
Agreed. Though I take your giving the advice on the small ARB to quell the same issues that require addition rebound control with greater and greater level's of ARB stiffness.
To get a good wheel rate with OEM springs and rebound limited shocks, you have to use big ARBs. Typical street applications also use big ARBs for the same reasons, but the cause is usually concerns about ride quality. Unfortunately, big ARBs reduce the independence of an independent suspension. Too much roll resistance from ARBs can make the car skatey over bumps and braking with big ARBs tends to make the car dart and follow the bumps.
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jreiter
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Sep 2, 2004 01:45 PM




