I had somewhat of a similiar problem on my recent track day, with G with JWT kit, Stillen oil cooler, stock rad and thermostat, and water wetter.

My coolant temp never got higher than about 205 (usually it's about 180 for daily driving), but my oil temp was shooting up pretty high. It hit 250 at one point, and I know that is not good. With the JWT TT comes the oil pan spacer, and I have allready got the Stillen oil cooler; I run Mobile 1 10W/30; what else can I do to cut down on my oil temp?

Dave

 

How and where do you have your oil cooler installed? Any air to whatever heat exchanger needs clean, cool, laminar air, and a reduced pressure discharge point. You also must ensure that the heat exchanger is installed so there can be no trapped air in the system, that usually means that the inlet is at the bottom and the discharge is at the top, if it is not than it will need bleeder at the top (this is how your coolant HX works).

Carroll Smith book goes into great detail about this and you will also learn a great many other things from it.

 

Chebosto you are on the mark!

To solve a problem with a system, takes an understanding of the all the inputs into it. If no one else is interested, I would like to know a little more on how this CDX-100 plug works, how you display the data, at what rate it is being sent out, how you store it, etc... and were can you get it.

Thanks!!!

 

so the general consensus is to not buy a radiator and figure out an alternate solution? the car is mainly used for track days and i don't mind the money on a radiator if that will solve my problems. i want as much cooling as i can get. the engine will remain stock too. bolt ons at the most.

 

Here is a picture of the stock radiator next to a three core Koyo. That is a lot of cooling advantage.

 

The larger radiator will do nothing to solve a cavitation problem, all it will do is make the car heavier and cost you money.

 

Eagle, if I remember correctly, you have a G, right? Does that Koyo fit directly on a G (with JWT's) with no modifications?

Dave

 

I think that Koyo now makes one for the G. Initially it had to be modified slightly, and flipped around, as the filler neck was on the opposite end for the Z, and the mounting pins on top were placed wider apart. Not a lot of work, but definitely not "plug and play"/

 

Hmm, ok, I'll have to look for that. Might be worthwhile.

Dave

 

Anyone ever try Evans NPG+ in their 350Z?

 

Fairly inexpensive and easy to read, however no data logging capabilities other than peak hold. if you want a fully instrumented water temp sensor, perhaps the Cypher from Altered Atmosphere with a laptop would suffice. for just checkouts when tracking and 'knowing when to quit' CMX is great.

CMX info:
http://www.technosquareinc.com/cmx.htm



the little blue thing near the vent



my thoughts on huge radiators: as long as you have good air flow for heat exhange/extraction i beleve a normally sized core is good enough. if it's too thick, that thing will act like a heat sink. you need ALOT of good airflow thru a thicker core to get sufficient heat exhange. i've seen some cars actually read higher water temps with a triple core koyo.. but other factors might come into play such as poor planning/placement of other things such as intercooler and or lack helper items like fans.

before my built motor, i was drifting/tracking and i saw water temps near the 220*F range and Oil temps approximately around 23x-25x.. it was much much higher before i went ahead and did the oil cooler.

maybe those with water temp issues should post what front bumper/hood/undercarriage they are running to help Zero in on other factors.

attach an electric fan to the oil cooler and or put that thing in direct forced air. Stock G bumper sucks for incoming air surface area.. dont forget to put a HOLE for air EXIT behind the oil cooler...otherwise its just a static air pressure barrier.

 

There is the twin JWT intercoolers up front that conspire to hurt the airflow on my G, beyond the normal ****ty G bumper.

Dave

 

how about putting the oil cooler dead center of the bumper and cut a hole and add a ducting?

 

Yeah, I'd rather avoid cutting the bumper. I'm kind of going for the stock look.

However, I think I might be able to either get a better place for it, or put a fan on it.

 

what is the pricce on this bugger?

 

im pretty sure i can get a bunch of these for less than $150.. lemme make a few calls.. you interested?

 

If he can't get them, I have an older one (black, not blue) that I would sell for relatively cheap (~$75) It's used, but it still works.