I know this is about suspension, but I figured you guys who track/autocross your cars would know more about this. So I'm thinking about getting the Megan Racing adjstable a arms, which is a replica of the Cuscos. Let's say for example, I have the alignment shop set them at -1.5 of camber. Then at the track, is it possible to adjust them myself for more negative camber, and then be able to set it back to -1.5 after the event (without needing to take it back to the alignment shop)? Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

 

You can adjust them for more camber but getting it back to -1.5 won't be exact. I would take a ruler on each side, place it on top then take a pic for both sides. This will be where your initial camber is before you adjust it for more camber.

 

I wouldn't touch a Megan Racing product with a 10-foot pole.

BTW, that's a bad idea, look up the threads where people discuss how much camber and toe are inter-related. You will find that you will end up with a very poor alignment, doing it that way.

 

I did a quick search and there are so many threads to look through. What is the relation between camber and toe? Is it more negative camber equals more toe in? If there's more toe out with more negative camber, then that would be good, but I would not want more toe in for the track. ( I have a feeling that camber and toe are inversely related though)

Would it be easier with the SPL a arms where they use a threaded adjuster, so I can just count the threads?

Thanks for the quick replies.

 

"Counting turns" is a pretty common alignment practice when going between alignments. You simply count the number of turns from your street alignment to your "play" alignment, and reverse that when done.

 

Yes, it is possible. It might not be exact, but you wont notice.

I would go with the SPL's, I just got a set and I am still impressed by them. Cant stop looking in my fender!

 

We actually recommend using a tape measure or ruler to measure the length between the center of the ball joint and a fixed point on the arm.



Every 0.33" difference corresponds to about 1 deg of camber. So you can take a measurement once after coming back from the alignment shop, then change your camber accordingly by subtracting/adding length. This method is very repeatable and accurate, and you will not accumulate errors over time as you would with counting turns.

 

Thanks Brett! They definitely look alot nicer installed

 

No problem!

So, if I'm at -1.5 for the street and I want to be at -3 at the track I need to thread it in a half inch?

 

(nevermind, my math skills and reading comprehension sucks... but that still seems rough at best and also doesn't take into account toe)

 

Correct, turn the adjuster to thread it in so that the total threaded assembly is shortened by 1/2".

 

The figure is calculated from the geometry, and I've found it pretty accurate in actual practice. Toe change is minimal in front due to the suspension geometry, I have calculated that a 3 deg change in camber through the upper arms would result in toe change of less than 1/10".

 

Thank you , that answers what i want to know.

 

Thanks for all the helpful information, you guys have answered all of my questions. Looks like Im gonna be going with the SPL camber arms, but that also means I need to save up for a while longer.