Hey all track guys,
My good friend is starting to track his 350 at HPDE events and he asked me if I knew of any good suspension set ups. I don't think we need to go with any major expensive custom suspension set ups. I want to know what you guys recommend for straight off the shelf stuff. What's good for your cars? KW?, TEIN? or maybe just some good springs will help. I don't know anything about 350s

Thanks, Chris

 

Chris:
I assume your friend has a stock motor NA, and that this is his daily driver so he does not want to trend too far to performance for concern of compromising the quality and acceptability of the daily street use.
The best bang for the buck mod for an initial suspension modification on the Z and G is aftermarket anti sway bars. Adjustables are the way to go, and there are many offerings out there that he can consider. The results are very noticeable. Should be less than $500.
After the sway bars the prioritization can be juggled, but the types of mods that are available and relatively easy to purchase and install are the following (no particular order is intended):
1. Adjustable front upper control arms (under $500)
2. Adjustable rear camber links (Under $350)
3. Coilover suspension (there are at least two that are electronically adjustable, the Tein Flex with EDFC and the Tanabe, so that the driver can just dial up a stiffer damper for the track, and softer for the street, without having to adjust manually with wrenches, but that adds about $500). $2,000
4. Wheels and tires. This is very significant, as putting down a wider patch of rubber helps materially. But it also increases road noise, vibration and harshness of ride because of the wider contact patch. Single piece forged or the special performance cast type like Enkei are light and strong. The tires should be a DOT-R for better grip. They will typically shave 5 seconds off lap times as compared to street tires. (and you can get 5 more if he wants to go to race type slicks, but those are not legal on the street).

The next level is not suspension, but has very significant impact on performance:
5. An lsd, preferably of the torsen type like Quaife for the car driven on the street a lot, but for a track **** the mechanical clutch type like Nismo is very good. There are half a dozen choices out there.
6. A lightweight clutch and flywheel. A single mass Nismo is very benign and easy to justify, and if he wants more performance and does not mind the sensitivity he can go lighter, to a Jim Wolf, or even more advanced to a carbon disc type.
7. Finally, a big brake kit. This is much bigger bucks. The fact is that the stock brakes are not going to handle the demands of a fast NA car that is as heavy as the 350Z. He can first try to manage with an upgrade to braided stainless lines, a good RBF like Motul 600 or ATE, and some more aggressive pads....but if surpasses the capability of that approach, he will have to consider upgrading to a bigger and heavier rotor and more robust calipers. There are several excellent kits out there to consider, including Brembo, AP Racing, Stop Tech, Wilwood, Meghan and some others.

 

SPL Parts front upper control arms, rear camber arms

Stance GR+ Coilovers (Offered in true coilover or OEM type rears)

Cusco sways

Thats pretty much what we use on the time attack car, except we have custom valving & spring rates which would be way too harsh for a street driven Z. We also use the old 350EVO sways but the Cuscos are a tad bit better IMO. We also have a few more things like SPL rear mid-links & sway bar end links, etc.

 

Word to the wise.

Whatever the make or model, have the dampners dyno'd by someone that can read the curves and allow you to avoid products that don't really deliver. Working with a shop that IS NOT SELLING you your suspension, that employes someone that can give you truely independent advise is really important. Far too many just toss anything on without really being able to decern right from wrong, shock dyno plots table the discussion.

And always test out things for yourself and be willling to change things as YOU need to.

 

From my experience typically your concerns should be in this order for getting your car track prepped for HPDE with high hopes for competition in the future.

1.) Brakes - do you have enough and have they been maintenanced?
2.) Tires - Tires make you faster than suspension mods bar non. Especially when you first start out.. . Save the switch to R comps for 8 or so HPDEs down the road. Learning on streets is the way to go first. Try 140 - 200 Treadwear tires for best grip.
3.) correct alignment before you hit the track
4.) Bushings - make sure stockers are in good condition and replace as neccessary
5.) sway bars - adjustable
6.) lowering and camber kits/toe kits go hand in hand
7.) higher rate coilovers once you get the feel for lower rates
8.) R compound tires
9.) replacing stock rubber bushings with Spherical bearings where applicable
10.) 3 way adjustable coilovers and even higher rates - Typically high dollar coilovers make stiffer spring rates seem softer than your average off the shelf coilovers.

I didn't put safety equipment in there but that is all up to how far you want to take your "TRACK-ABILITY"
1.) helmet - buy a HANS approved if your budget allows
2.) Roll bar or cage
3.) Racing seats and belts - yes I put this after roll bar b/c of safety concerns of not being able to submerge in your seat in the even of a rollover with no roll over protection. The stock seats are meant to collapse in the event of a high impat rollover to keep from braking your back.. .
4.) HANS or equivelant system
5.) Halon system and gut your interior at this point!

 

As Ed says above, ARBs, shocks, and same size wheels/tires all around. Then add racing brake pads and duct air to the front rotors.

 

not to bring this thread back from the dead but great info (doing my first HPDE on June 6th).

I was thinking of running the Z in completely stock form at first then building or modding the Z in between each event to really get a feel for what each mod does. Good idea? Bad idea?

 

I think that is a pretty good idea.

It lets you learn about your car's strengths and weaknesses, and your own strengths and weaknesses, then you can piece together your suspension setup to work in conjunction. No need to spend the big bucks right now when you don't know what to expect. Know what I mean?

 

Excellent idea. Just be sure you have enough brake pad, as street pads go away quickly with a few hard laps. That, or bring extra pads. You're all paid up, prepped, ready to rock - running out of pad is a lousy way to end the day.

 

Spend your money on training and great brakes

Keep it stock. Add the highest performance pads, motul 600 brake fluid and a set of slotted rotors. I modified almost everything in my car, spent a lot of money and learned that how fast is nothing more that a frame of mind. In the big scheme of things you only take off a handful of seconds at the track.

If you need it faster spend your money on a car that comes stock from the factory with high performance in mind - a good used BMW M3 or something like it. The M3 will run circles around a modified 350Z. You can sell an M3. No one will pay you for a modified 350z what you have into it. Why do you think we part our cars out before we sell them.

 

"Even at the high speeds we encountered driving on the 2.5-mile "Big Track" at Willow Springs International Raceway, getting the 350Z to rotate its tail takes a concerted effort. Its natural tendency is toward a slight turn-in/mid-turn push that gives way to a balanced corner exit drift. The result is a car whose considerable limits are fun to explore without venturing too far into the unknown. Senior Editor Andy Bornhop said it best following his first hot laps in the Nissan, "The 350Z inspires confidence because it doesn't feel like it will ever bite you." This confidence is most evident in the lap times, where the 350Z turned a fast lap just marginally faster than both the M3 and 911. Being able to push the Z comfortably right up to the limit contributed substantially to its surprising pace around the track."

http://www.roadandtrack.com/article....&page_number=6

 

Well, there ya go! Get some better brake pads and fluid, and you'll be ready to take on a day at the track. Most HPDE events have instructors. At the very least find an experienced driver at your HPDE event. Have an instructor take you out for a session in your car and show the proper driving line. They'll help get you going, and most people at track days are more then willing to help out with some advise. Don't worry about putting down the fastest lap, and you'll have a great time out there.

 

having tracked more BMW's than I can count, I was just going to mirror what G35sedan posted

an M3 vs a Z at a track day is a driver race....plain and simple. If you're being run in circles by M3's, it's the drivers doing it, not their car

no one will give you the money you put into ANY car..doesn't matter who's name is on the badge. You don't mod to improve resale value

 

+1

 

Go very basic for the 1st 5-10 track days:
Get some serious Track Pads and Hi Temp brake fluid, a set of OEM style (cheap) track wheels with stock REO50A tires, and go at it with an instructor...that is it! The Z-car will be much faster than the Noob is for a pretty long time!

Note: Using some cheapo "take -offs" OEM wheels & tires will save you some money. Once you can slide the Z at big hairy yaw angles/drifts then it is time to move to R compounds and trick suspension setups. This plan also saves your expensive bling-bling street wheels/tires.