laze1

iTrader: (17)

ote:
Originally Posted by laze1
I ran the "red hot lead" from the battery, thru a wiring harness hole-grommet just behind the battery into the passenger compartment, then along the passenger side door jam under the carpet, then along the passenger side of the rear storage area. Then ran the trailer coupler thru the center grommet where the hatch opener/tag lite exits the car.

You might can do this without removing the rear bumper cover, but i it is more difficult. I did this the same time I installed the hitch..so I had the entire back of the car off.

This is what I used, it worked fine.

etrailer.com
1507 East Highway A
Wentzville, MO 63385
636 327 3156

118176KIT -Circuit Protected Modulite 4 Pole Harness with Hardwire Kit $64.95

jgray

Thanks! I've skimmed this thread several times today and forgot about this post.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

YOu can also use any HOPPY powered unit with the red wire.

They sell them at autozone.

the difference in Hoppy units is only length of wire and connection ends. I called hoppy myself. reason it needs to be powered is because Z has separate blinkers from brake lights...

but either way ill post my hoppy part number later..

EDIT UPDATE:
the Hoppy part number im using is 488845 - but like i said, any powered hoppy will work. my p/n 48845 is simply the one with wires but no 4-wire end on it. so i have to splice in the end connector.....any other POWERED hoppy part numbered unit will have the 4-wire end on it with 12 inches of wire slack.... other part numbered POWERED hoppy units will have the 4-wire end on it with 40 -60 inches of wire slack on it.

but the brains behind the powered unit are all the same....

i paid like 20 bucks for mine.

- Jason

gonzo95

Very cool. I didn't think it was possible to hook up a tow kit until I saw this thread.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

ya, its possible....i say knock it out while you have the bumper off when installing the hitch.....

- j

TractionCircle

Hey everyone,

I have the hitch installed and all is well, but the lighting module mentioned above seems to be having issues:

My right brake light on the trailer is on constantly, whether the car is on or not. This is causing the module box to get hot to the touch. Do you think I have a short somewhere?

Otherwise, the hitch works great!

Thanks in advance...

DriveI65

Same thing happened to mine about three weeks ago. Then both lights stayed on last week so I had to replace the wiring module before we met up in Atlanta. I think mine was shorted out.

jgray

For clarification, which has trouble, the Hoppy Module or the wiring harness from etrailers.com?

TractionCircle

Sorry, the module from eTrailer.com.

jgray

Thanks. I have the etrailer.com wiring kit on order, so I'll keep an eye out for issues and report back here if I have any.

dnguyent

iTrader: (5)

Guys,

I installed the Curt hitch on my 2004 Z over the weekend. I purchased it through Summit Racing, and they sent me the correct unit.

The intent was to haul my road or mountain bikes, not to trailer my set of track wheels and tools. I also bought a nice Yakima hitch mount bike rack. After doing a complete and thorough install (~4 hours), I did a test drive with my 16lb road bike. I noticed that there was still a whole lot of flex in the aluminum bumper. The Yakima rack weighs 32 lbs, so I was carrying just under 50lbs and the hitch was bouncing all over the place. I parked the car, and pulled down on the hitch, and it flexed a lot. I don't think this design is good at all. The hitch may be rated for class A, but the bumper will surely fatigue without doing some torsional strengthening. If my hitch can't carry bike rack and a 16lb bike, I don't see how you guys are going to haul 400+ lbs of tires, tool, and trailer. That bumper will eventually fatigue and tear off!

SOLO-350Z

iTrader: (26)

The 05 and above cars have stronger mounts and welds on the bumper. 03-04 need to have the supports welded more. It's on the site somewhere.

Axelerate

iTrader: (19)

I've got the original "Roark" hitch that is completely hidden under the bumper and I have been using it for almost two years without any issues. I did have the mounts strengthened and I pull a small trailers with tires and tools.

SOLO-350Z

iTrader: (26)

Wish he still sold those..I would buy it used in a heartbeat.

DriveI65

I showed a fabricator the pictures and he made me one that I had on my 03 and 07. Towed for 3 years with it. However when I saw the Curt I decided to get it. Much nicer and more convienent.

As for flex, I would look at completly welding the brackets as mentioned. The spot welds from the factory won't hold. When I saw the post in here a couple of years ago we found mine were cracked and welded the entire seam.

SOLO-350Z

iTrader: (26)

Are the brackets metal or alum on the bumper that need to be welded more? And do you think the 07 needs it?

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

the brackets are steel..........easily weldable...

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Here are pics of where to weld.

When you have the bumper off look on both the driver and passenger side......you can see these steel brackets attaching the Aluminum bumper beam on each side. SEE 4th picture!

link to original thread - https://my350z.com/forum/showpost.ph...&postcount=108

first350

iTrader: (24)

I installed a custom made hitch - when we did the install, Drivesolo welded the seams on the Aluminum Bumper brackets...so far, it's held up. (My tongue weight is 50 lbs when the trailer is fully loaded)

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

The metal brackets flexing and showing weekness is not a Nissan Flaw of any sort. You have to remember that the Aluminum bumper beam and these funky metal brackets were originally designed to be for a COMPRESSION application.....i.e. car accident from the rear....OTHER than that particular situation its a static unit.....ie NO Load any other time....not while driving, braking accelerating....etc..... it just statically sits there waiting to be compressed....

Also, the bends are 1 X Thickness bends at best. in other words. where the brackets are welded the metal has a 1T radius where they meet.....

By mounting a hitch on the bumper beam we turn this unit as a whole into a TENSION application and also introduce some cyclic loading (acceleration and braking forces) while towing.

So to answer the year model question - i would say if Z's have this bracket its safe practice to have it welded as it made from steel and will help with the tension application of pulling a load with a hitch mounted off the bumper beam.....

- j