Bob, from your description above, I take it you:

1. Brake
2. clutch in (before turn-in)
3. downshift
4. keep clutch in, keep braking
5. release clutch along with throttle application for turn

OR,
You're just feathering the clutch out.

If the former is what you describe, I can see that it can be made to be smooth and effective. I also think that your techniques requires more perfection because if you botch up the rev-match, you may be botching it up while the car is already in a turn as opposed to being in a straight line like a traditional h/t method.

If it's the latter, then Betamotorsports has responded.

Then again, you're competing at the SCCA national level, and I'm not, so your advice carries some weight.

 

well put

Quote:

Originally Posted by terrasmak

I read something in Sportcar magazine a while back about bending the throttle pedel a little. Well i bent mine about 1/4 inch twords the brake and its so muck easier to heel toe now.

that's a pretty good idea! cheap, too

i for one don't have realy problems "hell-toeing." i also do the "roll," but if you're not used to that OP, don't do it on the track. hell, try it with the engine off in your garage, but you definitely don't want to slip off the brake

 

Wow. Lots of input on heal-toe. I was looking for anyone who has actually modified their pedals. I've been doing heal-toe a long time. For me, it sure seems like if the throttle and the brake were 1/2 inch to 3/4" closer in the "right" spots it would just make things easier. Lot's of the folks I speak to say the Z is great for them. Others I've talked with think it could be improved. So, if anyone's actually modified the pedals with an aftermarket set up can you let me know what you used? I've seen all the websites but it's hard to tell what works best.

Thanks again...

 

just wondering, do shoes make a difference in heel/toe-ing? what kind of shoes do you normally wear when tracking?

 

I'm using the OMP aluminum pedal covers. They work really well for me, except when my shoes are wet, then they are too slippery.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro....asp?RecId=751

I also wear those skinny Puma track shoes.

 

A lot of it will depend on how you H/T and what feels best for you. If you angle your foot more, you will want more spacing, if you angle it less then closer together. From what you have posted earlier I would say find a set that has a lower extension tab to bring the pedals closer.

The OMP pedals posted above look good.

These are cheap but look promosing:
http://nemea.meccahosting.com/~a0001...ve_pedals2.htm




Another set to look at might be the momos.

 

I'm sorry guys.. but what about the JDM fairlady Z pedals? they have the extension for heel and toe. and should be a direct replacement.
I'm looking to have a gas pedal here. (friends in JP sometimes are useful)

 

I actually have been practicing heel and toe on my last 4 cars; Z4, STi, C6 vette and now 350Z.

I still don't do a true heel to toe, I roll my foot to the gas pedal but never let off the brake until I am ready to transition to just gas...

I read long ago and have adhered to it ever since, never sacrifice your braking just so you can heel - toe.

I like to dive a little deep into the corners, so full brake application is important to me and then when I am ready to downshift, I rev match, but I try to never lift any force off of the brake pedal.

I have botched it many times, but that's what learning is about

 

Do you have any pics installed?

 

What you just described is the very definition of heel-toe downshifting...you do truly heel-toe, congrats!

 

To become proficient at anything related to driving, you have to practice it as often as possible. Heel/toe, left foot braking, looking ahead, etc. are all skills you should be doing every day on the street.

 

I find it's more about knee angle than the pedals. I prefer BMW pedal setups personally but I've not had much trouble getting use to the Z.

The clutch engagement point on the other hand...rubbish!

 

Left foot braking is HARD. I've never been able to it.. Too me it's alot like rubbing your belly while patting your head.

 

I have been using the Autovation pedals, changed the clutch engagement point to much lower and closer to the floor, and moved the brake pedal slightly closer to the throttle pedal to close the gap slightly and make the ankle roll to the throttle much easier when you are on the brake at thresh hold limits. It works very well for revmatching.

Typically you will be braking in a straight line at the limits of adhesion of your tires, then selecting and engaging your downshift gear just before you begin your corner entry turn in. At that point you will be easing back on throttle. But that is not always the case. Depending on the turn you may or may not trail the brake into the turn.

This is a sensitive little detail, but you do NOT want to be engaging the lower gear while you are turning, as it will upset the balance of the car at corner entry. So in those situations where you trail brake, just as with the straight braking run, you will be completed with the down shift just before you begin your turn in. But unlike the straight braking run, you will not have changed your foot to the throttle position because you are still braking after you have begun to turn the wheel and enter the turn, smoothly lifting off the brake and preparing to transition to throttle in the later phase of corner entry, typically with some counter steer to catch the rotation/yaw of the car. You need to be able to manage the throttle input very accurately to keep under control, and the roll to the edge of the foot, and then sliding the foot fully on to the throttle pedal is the way to do that. Think about what the foot is doing...the left portion of the ball of the right foot has plenty of pressure to hold and modulate brake down hard. You roll the right edge to blip the throttle to rev match WITHOUT releasing brake pressure, engage the lower gear and roll the edge of the foot back off the gas slightly so you can maintain steady and smooth rpms (You do not want to be "engine braking") while still keeping the primary focus on optimal braking pressure. Then ease off brake smoothly and slip the right foot on to the throttle to keep the revs optimally on slowly increasing power as you get through the apex and back down WOT. IT is all about smooth and not porpoising the car front to back, and getting the outside front tire in the turn to take a "set" grip. It is also much easier on the tranny and drivetrain, which we all pay for!
You can practice in a non performance fashion all the time on the street, and it quickly becomes second nature.

 

+1 on the Puma's

 

Here you go...