i don't think he's saying that they (kw's) are not good for the track, it's the progressive spring that is not good for the track. i'm doing some research on what types of springs that kw's are and what kind they offer.

to all that who are reading, kw is a pretty reputable company that has been around for a while. they are no stranger to the motorsport scene. take a look.

 

looks like kw's do use linear springs on their clubsport models. seeing this, i don't see why you couldn't interchange springs (you could with JIC's).

 

and as someone else said (either G35sedan or adam) you can't compare a brand across platforms.

some they get, and some they don't

but yeah, two of my friends have KW3s (a G35 and Z) and they are good coilovers IMO. they also have other mods though, so who knows

 

DOT approved R-compound tire. think NT01's, R888's, and VictoRacer's.

slicks = hoosier R6's FTMFW! and the like...

 

because the rear spring on the KWs are in stock location and thus are not a race diameter coil. you could get the SPL rear arm to use them I would think. it would also mess up their dampening balance I would think too.

and they also don't offer the clubsport in a Z model...

 

ah, i see. well, all you would need to do then is get a linear spring that has the same ID as kw's upper and lower spring perches, and is the same length, and voila! maybe someone should contact kw about this *ahem...

 

they are already expensive, they don't need a reason to charge more!

 

i know!!!

p.s-are we way waaaaaaaaaaay off topic


(goes to bed)

 

what me? offtopic? impossiblity!


(ok, I'm done) and: at least I OWN Stance coilovers what is your excuse? lol

 

Sounds like you are on the right track by playing with alignment. That is ususally my first step (checking tire temps as a gauge). Stiffening up the rear bar may have helped you because it kept the car level and provided a better contact patch. Can you better describe your oversteer?? ie corner entry/mid/exit? On throttle / balanced throttle? Same on left and right corners. Worse at the end of a session when tires are hot? I'm not sure I agree with such a variance in tire pressures but you can ask 10 different people and get 10 different opinions on that..

I am one of the Z owners that also thinks the car leans towards oversteer at race speeds. Have you checked your rear shock travel? Riding on a bumpstop can cause some oversteer as well. Coilbind perhaps?

 

mild A.D.D? okay, i got nothin'...

 

Dave, I considered rear travel issues and coil bind, but he has the Stance setup which is a true coilover in the rear and has full height adjustablity. Plus the setup leverages a fair amount of spring to the wheel in the rear.

Stance GR+ with springs on rear dampner (true coilovers)
560/280
(wheel rates are 265/280

{Off topic below}
Jic 350Z Flta-2
560/672
(wheel rates are 265/283)

Truechoice Phase IV
600/475 (custom rates)
Wheel rates 284/200

 

why are the wheel rates on the stance's rears equal to the spring rate?

and my stance's spring rates are 670/335 I believe.

what would the wheel rate difference be if it was OEM location?

 

Because a truecoilover in the rear mounts via the lower shock mount directly to the wheel hub, meaning it's motion rate is 1:1, so all that springs power reaches the wheel.

The oem rear spring location is not near the hub, so part of the springs power is leveraged out and cannot reach the wheel to perform work.

 

thanks.

but it's about a 40% loss?

and why does the front have such a high loss as well? it seems to be connected directly to the hub, same as a ture rear setup.

 

This is exactly why I mentioned travel issues. It's easy to muck up the shock travel on the dual height adjustable coilovers.
Grip_corners, just for kicks, measure the amount of rear shock travel you have at rest (from the shock to the tip of the bump stop).

 

i think that might have to do with the front caster.

 

I haven't converted the rear motion rate into a percentage of loss, but your figure would be in the neighborhood.

The front shock/spring attaches to the lower control arm at a distance away from the hub, vs attaching directly onto the hub. This reduces the amount of force that can be leveraged accordingly. Move the mount closer to the hub and the amount of force generated goes up, move it further away and it will go down. Also, keep in mind that part of what is going on in the front is a additional loss of about 4% do to the angle (I measure 10 degree's) that the shock/spring have vs if they were 100% vertical.

 

I could see your point when talking about setups that use the oem rear spring location. Not everyone understands that you have to set the rear dampner length to set rear preload and to maintain piston stroke. With a true coilover setup you would set preload to min and adjust the length of the damper to set rear height. The recommendation to check rear travel still stands. Of course if he does discovers travel issue's he will need to add in more preload and shorten the damper to maintain the same rear height.

 

It happens on mid, and corner exit. I only test at the track twice a year. So i dont want to change my allignment based on street cornering becouse its a diffrent animal. I find if i get on the gas as i enter the turn i can get the rear to stick better.

How would i check for shock bind, or bumpstop travel. the car is not super low...

Would a limited slip be something i would enjoy, I.E. help fix my problem?

Someone mentioned when you lift it should be "loose" and when you are on the gas your car should push. Thats what it did, But the RA-1's will change that. I think i will keep the stagger though. (If im wrong, I will need new fronts first anyway)