Kolia

iTrader: (2)

I'm pretty sure it can.

Why risk it anyway? You'll need to change your fluid every time you track the car. Bleeding some fluid during the pads swap is only good.

n1cK!

iTrader: (21)

what does the fluid get contaminated with anyway (that would be detrimental to the actuator)? i mean, it's a sealed system with the only real moving parts being the pistons and the cylinder (which is already close to the actuator).

changing out fluid everytime you track the car may be a little excessive. i'm on the same fluid that i have been for a year (about 9 track days?) and will be changing it soon.

DOT 4 tends to absorb more water from the atmosphere, so it is best to change it out sooner than normal DOT 3, but every track day is excessive imho.

Axelerate

iTrader: (19)

I've never heard of the contaminated fluid thing, but I usually do change my fluid before an event.

Opening a bleeder valve to change pads sounds a little messy, I barely have to move the pistons to swap pads. Then I hook up my bleeder bottle and have someone work the pedal and I'm done.

n1cK!

iTrader: (21)

Marc Mc

That is exactly what I do. It's quick and painless.
Marc

T2350Z

Between my 2000 Cobra R track car and my SSC Mazda3 I think I've changed front pads at least 25 times and I never have bled the brakes after a pad change..

And with the Brembo's on the 350 pad changes are very easy, I played with 3 different compounds at BeaveRun and was amazed at how fast I can get it done. I just push the pistons back and install the pads. No bleeding here......

I change brake fluid 1 time per season, not after every race. Might have something to do with the Motul racing brake fluid.

Now if I could only get the pads not to kick back............

n1cK!

iTrader: (21)

knockback springs from AP...

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I usually do about 3 pumps of fluid from each caliper after every track event, just to get the fluid that has been cooked the most out of the system.

T2350Z

Not T2 legal....

n1cK!

iTrader: (21)

really?? that's too bad...

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

I bought this to push the pistons back in my Brembo's. Soooo much cheaper than that $300 piston reset tool posted above.

http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.as...CTMP=1&LowCt=0

JET

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I like it , and can use it on my wilwoods

JohnnyHT

iTrader: (2)

Although I haven't tried it on the Brembo's...I used a big-**** C-clamp and a small block of wood. :P

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

The c-clamp won't work with the caliper on the car. You'd have to remove the caliper to use the c-clamp.

JET

commasense

You're all wusses!

I've been changing the pads on my Z for five and a half years (and similarly on a 944 Turbo for two years before that) without special tools or bleeding or anything. The only tool I need for changing pads is a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the clips and pins.

Slide out one of the old pads (leave the other one in place!), turn it 90 degrees and put it half-way back in, centered between the pistons, so that it's in contact with both. Then use it as a lever to push them back. It sometimes takes a little effort, but it's not too hard. When the pistons are all the way in, slide the new pad in.

Repeat the process with the other pad on that caliper, then go to the other corners.

You should check the level in the reservoir to make sure it doesn't overflow. I use an eyedropper to suck a little fluid out if it gets near the top.

stuntman

Check out www.m-workz.net if you need OEM Brembo replacement pads. They have tons and are selling them for SUPER CHEAP.

commasense

I think that's the wrong link, stuntman. "The edge in multimedia communications"?

stuntman

it was .net not .com

I fixed it. Sorry

SteveA

iTrader: (1)

I'm with you commasense. All this fuss about moving caliper pistons a few mm back in

If you apply pressure evenly on the piston you can use anything as a suitable lever. I use the old pads, but even a tire iron or big screwdriver works just as well . Just wrap them in a rag to avoid scratching the rotors or damaging the dust seals, try and make sure you are pushing on both sides of the piston and be gentle.

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

I never did it before on this car. On my Audi you needed a special tool as the piston screwed in. Now that I took my pads out I see how easy it is. However I still don't mind I bought the tool. It works well and was only $40. The tool also assures the piston goes back in perfectly even to avoid scrastching the piston bore.

JET