350z High Speed Track cornering
Originally Posted by greyson
Sakred 275 x 18 x ?? 40's or 35's
I think the 18's will clear my stop tech 6 pistons, any confirmation on that?
I do think the 265 and 305/30/19's are probably too stiff of a sidewall so I plan on some 18 inch 40 series, maybe 285's or 275's. Sakred, what offset are you running on your 18's. 30mm offsets on my 19's work fine. Also any good looking 18's that anyone has seen will help as well as pictures and where you got them. Are we talking nitto r compounds or what tire are you using and lastly, are you running them at the track or on the street?
I plan on adding the GT SPEC stiffeners as well as adjustable camber bars. I also plan on stiffening the front more to offset the rear.
Good direction by some of you. once these questions I just asked get answered I will get it done and share my results. Ferrari Club is sponsoring an event at the Gingerman in South Haven after this coming weekend which I am invited to so hopefully the equipment will be on it by then. At least some of it!
I think the 18's will clear my stop tech 6 pistons, any confirmation on that?
I do think the 265 and 305/30/19's are probably too stiff of a sidewall so I plan on some 18 inch 40 series, maybe 285's or 275's. Sakred, what offset are you running on your 18's. 30mm offsets on my 19's work fine. Also any good looking 18's that anyone has seen will help as well as pictures and where you got them. Are we talking nitto r compounds or what tire are you using and lastly, are you running them at the track or on the street?
I plan on adding the GT SPEC stiffeners as well as adjustable camber bars. I also plan on stiffening the front more to offset the rear.
Good direction by some of you. once these questions I just asked get answered I will get it done and share my results. Ferrari Club is sponsoring an event at the Gingerman in South Haven after this coming weekend which I am invited to so hopefully the equipment will be on it by then. At least some of it!
and this last one is just for fun. i was on my way to Infenion when i spotted this beast checking out the beast on the trailer.
Link to retailer for rims
http://www.subydude.com/osc/product_...0a968c40839797
but yeah you should definitely try a similar sized tire all around. at this point I am thinking i can get a 285 up front but that may be pushing it. 275's all around change the car driving dynamics a whole lot, but if you still want to keep some of that under-steer you should stagger a little. hope this helps.
Hammad
Last edited by sakred; May 5, 2008 at 10:12 PM.
I ran a set of 275/18 all four corners on my G for awhile, with two different types of wheel. The Rays Engineering gramlights, and the Enkei NTO3+M, which is the wheel I run now on 275/18F and 315/18R. They both cleared the StopTech BBK with the 355mm rotor just fine. I used the 9.5" rim on the all around set up, and now on the bigger rear tire use the 10.5" rim. I no longer use the StopTech BBK, but it is a fine kit for high performance street and moderate track use. When you start to push the limits of what max rubber you can squeeze under the fenders it matters what tire you use. The NT-01 in 315 is actually a bit wider than that....nominally it measures out to closer to 322mm in treadwidth. Every tire is different in its sizing, and its interpretation of treadwear/softness. The so called "standards" or "rules" are more like "guidelines", to paraphrase a popular movie line. Do you have a power steering cooler? If you do not, then you may have some issues on longer, twisty tracks with overheating your psf, and you may want to consider putting a ps cooler on there.
Last edited by Eagle1; May 6, 2008 at 04:39 AM.
Originally Posted by Eagle1
I ran a set of 275/18 all four corners on my G for awhile, with two different types of wheel. The Rays Engineering gramlights, and the Enkei NTO3+M, which is the wheel I run now on 275/18F and 315/18R. They both cleared the StopTech BBK with the 355mm rotor just fine. I used the 9.5" rim on the all around set up, and now on the bigger rear tire use the 10.5" rim. I no longer use the StopTech BBK, but it is a fine kit for high performance street and moderate track use. When you start to push the limits of what max rubber you can squeeze under the fenders it matters what tire you use. The NT-01 in 315 is actually a bit wider than that....nominally it measures out to closer to 322mm in treadwidth. Every tire is different in its sizing, and its interpretation of treadwear/softness. The so called "standards" or "rules" are more like "guidelines", to paraphrase a popular movie line. Do you have a power steering cooler? If you do not, then you may have some issues on longer, twisty tracks with overheating your psf, and you may want to consider putting a ps cooler on there.
Hammad
The ST are really outstanding brakes, let us be very clear about that.
I was running them happily on all the tracks I could get to in California and Nevada, and they were holding up just fine.
Then two things happened that changed that. First, I upped the rwhp and torque on the car to the 585-625 range. This permitted me to be approaching a lot of corners at 20+ more mph than before. Second, I went to my fourth and fifth race driving school programs, where essentially I was one of two students for two days each, with about five hours of track time each day with an instructor, getting a very intense tutoring on driving a car at the limits on the track. The combination meant a big step up in both the driver aggression and command of the car on track, and much higher speeds and thus more braking required. The result was I was cooking the rears, and the boots and seals failed. I took them off, rebuilt them, and sold them (at a nifty price) to a comrade, and put on the AP Racing bbk.
Even then, the rears went through a problem on the very hard braking tracks like California Speedway, where a 120+mph speed reduction is needed on Turn 3, and a 80mph drop going into the button hook, and then another 80+ mph slowing at the end of the infield straight. I encountered a heat fatigue problem (tensile strength failure from cold-hot-cold-hot cycles) with rotor bolts cracking, then shearing and popping out of the rear rotors going down the front straight, which is rather disconcerting at 150-170mph!
The answer was an upgraded, larger rear rotor hat with special strength sleeved rotor bolts. Problem solved.
So, unless you have a heavy car, with high hp on a very tough braking track, and you are driving like you don't care how much it costs to fix it.....the Stop Tech is fine. I rather expect that if I had gone back to them and worked through the problem for a step up to the next performance level that they would have been able to address the problem with an upgrade as well. After all, the stock AP Racing kit failed too! For the simple reason that the upgrade to the next level is just too much money for anyone other than a track hound, so to make it part of the standard kit would be enough to price them out of the market entirely for the great bulk of the customer base.
I was running them happily on all the tracks I could get to in California and Nevada, and they were holding up just fine.
Then two things happened that changed that. First, I upped the rwhp and torque on the car to the 585-625 range. This permitted me to be approaching a lot of corners at 20+ more mph than before. Second, I went to my fourth and fifth race driving school programs, where essentially I was one of two students for two days each, with about five hours of track time each day with an instructor, getting a very intense tutoring on driving a car at the limits on the track. The combination meant a big step up in both the driver aggression and command of the car on track, and much higher speeds and thus more braking required. The result was I was cooking the rears, and the boots and seals failed. I took them off, rebuilt them, and sold them (at a nifty price) to a comrade, and put on the AP Racing bbk.
Even then, the rears went through a problem on the very hard braking tracks like California Speedway, where a 120+mph speed reduction is needed on Turn 3, and a 80mph drop going into the button hook, and then another 80+ mph slowing at the end of the infield straight. I encountered a heat fatigue problem (tensile strength failure from cold-hot-cold-hot cycles) with rotor bolts cracking, then shearing and popping out of the rear rotors going down the front straight, which is rather disconcerting at 150-170mph!
The answer was an upgraded, larger rear rotor hat with special strength sleeved rotor bolts. Problem solved.
So, unless you have a heavy car, with high hp on a very tough braking track, and you are driving like you don't care how much it costs to fix it.....the Stop Tech is fine. I rather expect that if I had gone back to them and worked through the problem for a step up to the next performance level that they would have been able to address the problem with an upgrade as well. After all, the stock AP Racing kit failed too! For the simple reason that the upgrade to the next level is just too much money for anyone other than a track hound, so to make it part of the standard kit would be enough to price them out of the market entirely for the great bulk of the customer base.
I'll second with getting rid of the stagger, possibly the best thing I did on my car... second only to the cage - not only did it help a lot with confidence but with feeling EVERYTHING the car was doing.
Probably at that point where I'm going to want a NISMO LSD, I certainly felt the limitations of the VLSD when I was twin-turbocharged... that's for sure. Right now I'm trying to figure out if I want to run in T2, or TTB or just sell the car and buy a Spec (insert soemthing here - Miata? E36? Boxster) or if I could afford / find some finances for something totally different. The DE thing is a blast and I love the people but I want to go w2w sooner than later...
Probably at that point where I'm going to want a NISMO LSD, I certainly felt the limitations of the VLSD when I was twin-turbocharged... that's for sure. Right now I'm trying to figure out if I want to run in T2, or TTB or just sell the car and buy a Spec (insert soemthing here - Miata? E36? Boxster) or if I could afford / find some finances for something totally different. The DE thing is a blast and I love the people but I want to go w2w sooner than later...
Originally Posted by Eagle1
The ST are really outstanding brakes, let us be very clear about that.
I was running them happily on all the tracks I could get to in California and Nevada, and they were holding up just fine.
Then two things happened that changed that. First, I upped the rwhp and torque on the car to the 585-625 range. This permitted me to be approaching a lot of corners at 20+ more mph than before. Second, I went to my fourth and fifth race driving school programs, where essentially I was one of two students for two days each, with about five hours of track time each day with an instructor, getting a very intense tutoring on driving a car at the limits on the track. The combination meant a big step up in both the driver aggression and command of the car on track, and much higher speeds and thus more braking required. The result was I was cooking the rears, and the boots and seals failed. I took them off, rebuilt them, and sold them (at a nifty price) to a comrade, and put on the AP Racing bbk.
Even then, the rears went through a problem on the very hard braking tracks like California Speedway, where a 120+mph speed reduction is needed on Turn 3, and a 80mph drop going into the button hook, and then another 80+ mph slowing at the end of the infield straight. I encountered a heat fatigue problem (tensile strength failure from cold-hot-cold-hot cycles) with rotor bolts cracking, then shearing and popping out of the rear rotors going down the front straight, which is rather disconcerting at 150-170mph!
The answer was an upgraded, larger rear rotor hat with special strength sleeved rotor bolts. Problem solved.
So, unless you have a heavy car, with high hp on a very tough braking track, and you are driving like you don't care how much it costs to fix it.....the Stop Tech is fine. I rather expect that if I had gone back to them and worked through the problem for a step up to the next performance level that they would have been able to address the problem with an upgrade as well. After all, the stock AP Racing kit failed too! For the simple reason that the upgrade to the next level is just too much money for anyone other than a track hound, so to make it part of the standard kit would be enough to price them out of the market entirely for the great bulk of the customer base.
I was running them happily on all the tracks I could get to in California and Nevada, and they were holding up just fine.
Then two things happened that changed that. First, I upped the rwhp and torque on the car to the 585-625 range. This permitted me to be approaching a lot of corners at 20+ more mph than before. Second, I went to my fourth and fifth race driving school programs, where essentially I was one of two students for two days each, with about five hours of track time each day with an instructor, getting a very intense tutoring on driving a car at the limits on the track. The combination meant a big step up in both the driver aggression and command of the car on track, and much higher speeds and thus more braking required. The result was I was cooking the rears, and the boots and seals failed. I took them off, rebuilt them, and sold them (at a nifty price) to a comrade, and put on the AP Racing bbk.
Even then, the rears went through a problem on the very hard braking tracks like California Speedway, where a 120+mph speed reduction is needed on Turn 3, and a 80mph drop going into the button hook, and then another 80+ mph slowing at the end of the infield straight. I encountered a heat fatigue problem (tensile strength failure from cold-hot-cold-hot cycles) with rotor bolts cracking, then shearing and popping out of the rear rotors going down the front straight, which is rather disconcerting at 150-170mph!
The answer was an upgraded, larger rear rotor hat with special strength sleeved rotor bolts. Problem solved.
So, unless you have a heavy car, with high hp on a very tough braking track, and you are driving like you don't care how much it costs to fix it.....the Stop Tech is fine. I rather expect that if I had gone back to them and worked through the problem for a step up to the next performance level that they would have been able to address the problem with an upgrade as well. After all, the stock AP Racing kit failed too! For the simple reason that the upgrade to the next level is just too much money for anyone other than a track hound, so to make it part of the standard kit would be enough to price them out of the market entirely for the great bulk of the customer base.
I don't recall absolutely now, it was a couple of years ago, but to the best of my present recollection the rears were 2 piston, the fronts were 4, and it did not have a titanium plate separator. I was running braided stainless lines and Motul 600. Been through so many different types of pads that on that particular run when it cooked I don't recall which ones were on it. I was interested in trying to noodle through how to step it up, but the fellas that I was working with on my car at the time were adamant that we switch to AP Racing instead of doing that. But, as we all know, we learn along the way. At present, I really have confidence in my set up and it performs beautifully (80mph to zero in 160 feet). I do think we could have come up with a solution with ST, but as Yogi Berra said, when you come to a fork in the road, take it. The fork took us the other way.
you can run 285/30-18 R-compounds up front just by running a little more negative camber....get rid of the 19's, throw out some weight, some aero bits (rear wing that actually provides down force, a front lip/canards) would help in the fast corners. get it alligned by a race shop, let em know what track youre running on.
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