JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

Scott.... how low is your car? Do you plan on lowering it?

+12 makes more sense.

Here is how my car sits, and I judge fitment by my ride height which is about 2 inches lower than stock. All the advice I give on wheel fitment is in respect to the wheel being able to clear the fender and not rub at any height.





As you can see in this pic.... I don't rub within the full range of the suspensions motion front or rear.

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

Jet -
It is not lowered now, but will be lowered soon with an Eibach 0.8" drop and probably Koni yellows. BTW, your car looks great. What are the chances of fitting 295s at all 4 with this +12 set-up? I fear the fronts, mostly. . .

dmoffitt

iTrader: (4)

Seems rather unlikely. 265/35/18 (granted PSCups so bigger than a 275 street tire but shorter sidewall) doesn't have a lot of room in OR out - an extra 10-15mm on each side is going to be TOUGH to find w/o cutting/shaping/rolling the fender. That's with um, -2.3 camber up front iirc? 2.5? Something like that...

ke0ki2k

iTrader: (2)

first350 from washington runs BSP and hes running 295/30-18 Hoosiers up front with a +23 offset 2" drop with -2 degrees camber. he says it lightly rubs the fender wells and only has a couple mm of clearance on the inside.

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

Keep in mind a 295/30/18 has a 1" smaller diameter than a 295/30/19 and is about 1.5" smaller size than OE sizes. An OE tire diameter (approx 26.4")would definelty rub.

The fronts won't work. It's too agressive an offset and too large a tire. A Toyo R888 275/35/18 rubbed on my car with about -1.5 camber and a 9 +22 wheel size. Your wheel will stick out another 23mm and your tire will be 20mm wider (10mm per side) for a total of +33mm sticking further out. It's also possible that won't clear on the inside suspension upright either or allow full lock to lock steering without rubbing. No Way.

nlzmo400r

iTrader: (3)

The fronts will most definitely work with the 295.30. I have 285/30 with 10.5 (+15) up fronts and dont even come close to rubbing (which sticks out 3mm FARTHER than +12 on a 10" wheel). Now I like to run more camber than -1.5 because the slicks just love the camber.

And also you dont add the difference in teh width in tire and also the difference in wheel width together, so you're 33mm statement is moot.

Realistically saying that the tire isnt bulging over the wheel (which it shouldnt on a 10" wheel) you're looking at a difference of 23mm of outward clearnace vs your 9" (+22) setup.....WHICH by the way is LESS aggressive (by a mere 3mm) than the setup I run which I CAN ASSURE you, clears everything just fine (with room to spare), even being pretty low and tracking the car.

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

Fist.... you aren't talking wheel sizes so evey bit of tire info you mentioned in your first paragraph is useless.

Second.... I did not add the difference of the width in tire. I added half the width in tire. of course it's a factor. That's what's going to rub.... not the wheel.

Everyone has their own idea of what they consider fitting. I was speaking from my experiences. The way my car is setup drop of 2" 9 +22 wheel and Toyo R888 tires in 275/35/18 size with -2.5 camber there is no way in hell anything wider or more agressive offset is going to fit without rubbing. I kept the OE tire diameter.

I'd really like to see some pics of your setup. Please post some up.

nlzmo400r

iTrader: (3)

sorry, I thought we were set on 18" wheel sizes, so all the specs I gave were based on that.

And no, the difference in tire width is not going to make any difference whatsoever unless the tire bulges over the outside lip of the wheel (which most wont, my 285s on 10.5s sit within the wheel lips about an 1/8" or so per side), so the first thing to rub would be the very outer edge of the wheel itself.

I am a little lower than 2" lowr than factory ride height and have no rubbing issues with my setup. The ony big thing we're missing is camber. I do run more negative camber than you (and started out around 2* and have added more negative with great results) and thats also attributing to my fitting larger wheels/tires within the fenders. Also keep in mind that a 295/30 will be about .2" taller than my 285/30, but by just eyeballing my setup, it will definitely clear.

Im going to post pictures as soon as I get home, Im stuck at the office and the stupid WebFilter wont let me access my photobucket.

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

I can't comment on smaller than stock diameter tires and fitment. All my tire applications have been OE diameter or within a few mm. I just assumed the OP wanted to go with OE diameters.

nlzmo400r

iTrader: (3)

Here is a few snapshots of my track/autoX setup.

18X10.5 (+15) front and rear (3mm more aggressive than the 10" +12 setup in question) and 285/30 v710 slicks on all corners.









Please excuse the quality of the pics, many of these were taken from my cell

ExtaZ33

iTrader: (1)

What suspension and camber specs? I would love to run that setup.

nlzmo400r

iTrader: (3)

just a couple of action shots, no rubbing whatsoever and im at a pretty low ride height (about as low as JET i think)





and one of my favs (note: weight transfer to the left side of car, so the car is a little lower than in this pic when static)

nlzmo400r

iTrader: (3)

Cusco Zero2 dampers and Cusco adj. Front Upper A-Arms.

Front camber in these pictures is -3.2 up front and -2.8 out back with 0toe front and rear and factory caster (around 8.7* IIRC)

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

I did the math and your front tires have a smaller diameter of .85" than my 275/35/18 and your rears have a -1.7" smaller diameter than my 305 35/18. I run OE diameters. Make your tire diameter small enough and anything will fit.

If you like that look of a small wheel making the wheel arch look huge then I guess you can run whatever size you want. I tried a 255/35/18 and they looked terrible and they were even bigger diameter than your 285/30/18.

If all you care about is performance then I can't argue with that size. But it looks weird to me.

nlzmo400r

iTrader: (3)

Well to be honest, all I cared about with this setup was performance (I dont run them on the street at all because of the Rcompound rubber). And also you have to divide the overall diameter difference by 2 because obviously half the overall diameter will be going into the wheel well while the other half on the ground. So even though theres .85" difference between a 275/35 and a 285/30 there only .42" difference aesthetically (atleast in the sense of wheel arch size).
And I LOVE the way smaller tires look (to an extent), they make the wheels look larger and allow the car to sit a little lower.

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

Can't argue with opinion.

I wanted to ask about your camber.... Do you only autocross or do you run on road courses as well? That's a huge amount of camber to run for autocross. Did you use a pyrometer to set up camber?

nlzmo400r

iTrader: (3)

I run autoX and road course with this setup. And no I did not use a pyrometer to figure my camber settings. I used the good ole tire chalk method to see if I was overworking the outer edge of the tires, then I simply aligned the car...then raced....then re-aligned with more camber...then raced again and did this several times until I found a setup that yielded the most turn in that still maintained good balance of oversteer.
I find the Z likes much more camber than most other cars in the class. My buddies S2k has soo much more natural mechanical grip up front that he needs no where near the amount of camber (or tire for that matter) that I do to get the front end bite that he wants. But between teh weight of the car and my driving style, I feel this is the best setup ive done yet.

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

I never ran over 2.5 degrees of camber up front. I would think that that much camber would affect braking ability.

But then again..... perfect suspension setup for one track might not be the best for another.

laze1

iTrader: (17)

I run 3.3 deg up front, 2.0 in back.m ZERO TOE F & R ..handles GREAT and stops Great!
Hotchkis TVS and SPL camber kits, 17x10 w/274-40 RA1s w/Carboteck xp10s on Brembo's


I run my rear ARB on full soft, front bar "one hole up from full soft". If anything I have a very mild "loose" condition that I love, because I can rotate the car anytime.... anywhere...but is still very stable in hi speed corners......

However on some tracks I would like to make the rear a little softer. I lower the rear tire pressure 2 or 3 lbs below the fronts and it gives me more rear traction....SWEET!

Planning on installing a locking Diff soon,(have VLSD now) not sure how that change will impact handling...maybe need to make some changes then

nlzmo400r

iTrader: (3)

i havent noticed it handle braking so much that I would rather sacrifice the corner grip/turn in. Of course it does have SOME effect on braking, but overall I love the setup