ke0ki2k

iTrader: (2)

Just ordered a set of 285/30-18 Kumho V710's im mounting on some Saleen replica wheels (18x10 +28, cheapo wheels). I know for the first heat cycle i'm just gonna cruise around on em for 20 minutes at low pressure to make sure the entire tread is cycled, but what do some of you guys run pressure wise with these tires? i'm on stock suspension other than hotchkis swaybars (set on full stiff front and rear) and I'm thinking about having it alligned and telling them to max the negative camber (-1.33 I believe is the max isnt it?) and max caster (+8.92 is max I believe) with no toe front, and OEM toe out back. input is appreciated as is experience with 710s (anything from heat cycling, pressures, habits, etc). First time i'll be running the 710's will be on a very smooth asphalt surface if that helps ya suggest tire pressures.

Billhyco

iTrader: (14)

our cars don't have camber adjustments stock.

22-24psi COLD, on that set of tires. Important piece of info....NEVER get these tires up to 34psi HOT. They will start to blister very quickly with that much heat in them.

after you heat cycle them the first time, they really should sit for 24hrs, off the ground. I put mine on the car, went onto the skid pad and just got them hot, jacked the car up and let it sit for about 14 hours.

the V710's to me take a good lap to really start to come in. They will be at max effefiancy after about 3 laps but will tend to start going away after about 8 laps (average sized road course). They don't seem to get to greasy and I know a lot of people won't agree with me saying this, but they tend to last quite a while for an R-compound tire. If you are trying to be competitive thats another story, but as far as a track day tire they lasted me a good bit of time.

great tire....but take it easy and work into them. race tires truly are like crack, you will never go back to a street tire on the track. You need to remember, R-compounds don't really give you a lot of warning before they break loose. A street tire will squeal when its at max adhesion, a R-compound doesn't really do that. After you drive on them a while you will get a feel for it and yeah you can start to hear them work. But for awhile, just go easy... it will be worth it in the end to know exactly where that fine line of adhesion really is.

ke0ki2k

iTrader: (2)

well on stock springs & stock camber am I going to chord the outter shoulders under autox conditions? how long did it take you to work the tires up to warm/scrub the mold release when you put them through their first heat cycle?

Billhyco

iTrader: (14)

never autocrossed on r-compounds. hell i have only autocrossed one time in my life. to me, there just isn't enough time to get a true R-compound tire up to operating temps in a 60 second lap, at autox speeds. If you could go heat up your tires then jump on course, sure that would make it much better.

On the skid pad I literally did figure 8's for about 7-10 minutes trying to get heat into them. After that like I mentioned, I put the car on stands and left it over night. I know guys that mount up R-compounds, drive the car down the hwy and back for about 15 miles and then put it in the air. They claim that works, I have no idea.

ke0ki2k

iTrader: (2)

quite a few locals that run the tires start spraying the tires with water after about the 3rd run, sayin they overheat and start losing grip if its really hot out. Of course thats with A6's, havent talked to any of the national level guys about it as i'm pretty sure they all use A6's. Of course I guess the amount of temperature you get into them depends on how hard youre driving them & the severity of the slip angles youre creating.

PDX_Racer

iTrader: (2)

For autocross on stock wheels -- stock alignment is very close close to ideal.

A good, through heat cycle will help the tires last a bit longer.

245s were pretty easy to cord, the 285s (on my stock track wheels) look in good shape after about a year.

On autocross courses above 70-80 degrees, I often start spraying new ones down after the first run (sidewall and shoulder only). They seem to work best at around 110 degrees surface temperature (surface temp is more important for autox).

Tire pressures for autox on stock wheels -- 32 PSI front, 28 PSI rear.

ke0ki2k

iTrader: (2)

im not on stockers though, i'll be on 18x10's. would that have an effect? and is 32/28 cold or hot? and the tires work best around 110 degrees or best when the tarmac is 110 degrees?

thanks for the info guys.

PDX_Racer

iTrader: (2)

For autocross, that would be cold tire pressures. Tire surface temperature of 110 degrees.

You might be able to get away with less tire pressure -- but not by much.

Billhyco

iTrader: (14)

you get the V710 above 34psi HOT, they will blister...just keep that in mind.

TopNotch

my only experience with R compounds were with the Nitto NT01's, and it wasnt my z it was on my 06 mazda mx5. i didnt get them heat cycled, but i did put them on, heated them up for the first time, and also jacked up my car for a little over a day. I autocrossed with these tires, and never took them off the car, drove on 'em almost every day, got over 8,000 miles out of them and about 10 autox's. However this was on a 2450lb car, do that with the Z, and im sure the addtional weight and additional power will kill the tires 2x fast.

anyway, after i broke them in, my first 2 autox laps, they SUCKED!! Understeer here, understeer there, little bit of over steer. After that, they were amazing, i never got the car to understeer ever again, incredible tire. For Autox i ran 45psi up front and 42 in the rear, that gave me my best results, however again, that was with a mazda not a Z, tire pressures surely will be different.

The only down fall is that after you drive on a R compound, you will never ever want to drive on any street tire again, nothing compares. Even for spirited drives, the R compounds were sick.

Good luck!

12AutoX

iTrader: (7)

There are wear dimples across the surface of the V710s to give you an idea of how much tread is left on the ends without the groove. If your outsides are wearing faster than the insides (mine do even with 3 degrees neg camber), you can take them back to the shop and flip them after about 30-40 autocross runs. Just find out how much the shop charges to mount/dismount first. I got screwed ($60).
I ran higher pressures, around 36-38psi, and got 80 runs for the season before they faded and started misbehaving. I only autocrossed them, on concrete and asphalt, and never got them over 150 degrees.

ke0ki2k

iTrader: (2)

well i've got one guy saying 32 psi cold and another saying over 34 hot and they'll blister and be ruined (even after being properly heat cycled? I know an STI driver (similar weight) that runs them at 42 psi all the way around in A-Stock every time).....lol...and how the hell are the outsides of your 710s wearing out faster than the inside when youre running -3 degrees camber?! did you cut out your sways and put a lift kit on?

I'll probably put em through 2 heat cycles next week, a real gentle first one just cruising on roads for 20-30 minutes, then i'll probably go experiment with tire pressures (and a piece of chalk) seeing which pressure uses all of the tire without rolling onto the sidewall (and try to keep it fairly cool) for the second heat cycle just to make sure I dont blister/damage them next Sunday at the first autox I use them at..

betamotorsports

iTrader: (1)

I don't understand the reference to tire pressure and blistering. I've run the V710s on a few different customer cars at pressures from 32 to 40 psi hot based on what the pyrometer tells me is working.

ke0ki2k

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking you only blister the tires if you go out and abuse them before heat cycling them properly or if its an extremely heavy, powerful car and its really hot out.

PDX_Racer

iTrader: (2)

The difference in tire pressures is that between autocross and road racing.

Autocross, you use cold tire pressures.
Road racing, you use hot tire pressures.

ke0ki2k

iTrader: (2)

running my street tires it took me two runs to go from 34.5 psi (after sitting 3 hours in the paddock around 85 degrees) to 40 psi up front...its hot down here...lol. Do your cold tire pressures stay pretty consistent at events in the north west?

PDX_Racer

iTrader: (2)

I usually have to drop 2 PSI from run-to-run, up to about run 4 or 5 (if we get that many runs).

ke0ki2k

iTrader: (2)

welp i'll get some time to experiment with it next week with some chalk. btw on stock suspension/allignment do ya'll think i'll have problems running 285/30-18 V710's up front with a +28 offset? it'll be close on the inside, might have to overnight 3mm spacers. I know that my 275/35 KDW2's barely clear the suspension on +30 offset Nismos.