What brand/weight of oil do you guys run for road race, time trial, HPDE, or Autox?

A local Street-mod camaro blew an engine and when he posted up on a forum the oil he was using he got raked over the coals by, among others, Sam Strano for using Mobil 1. I've never heard anything bad about it till then but I know Strano pretty well knows his stuff at least when it comes to detroit V8's, are there better/safer options for VQ's that are being beat on?

 

built small block chevy, castrol 20w50 non-synthetic. but I change it every other use.

 

They changed the formulation of Mobil1 so you NEVER want to use it to break in a motor. Once the motor is broken in, it SHOULD be fine.

We use Motul for our motors. This stuff is amazing. It's expensive, but well worth it. It leaves a slight coating behind so that our motor is protected in case of loss of pressure. I'd recommend it.

Disclaimer: Motul sponsors us.

-Rich

 

I was using Redline, but it was costing too dayum much since I change oil pretty often (maybe too often) , so I went back to Mobil 1

If you want to knew EVERYTHING about oil/lubricants...go to this web site:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

 

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...-and-info.html

There is a thread for the HR too.

 

We use Red Line 30 race oil in the T2 car and have never had an engine problem. Red Line is recommending that you change oil no sooner than every 3 race weekends or about every 6 hours of track time. We also use Red Line in the differential but change that in the Z car every two races. The rule changes also now allow a diff cooler and we installed a bracket made for a bicycle water bottle and a retangular clear plastic bottle, works great.

 

Thank ya! i thought i remembered a thread already but i couldnt locate it for some reason :/

 

Found this on another site:

just remember guys when buying synthetics check the back of the bottle. an oil with the a High Temperature High Shear # greater than 3.5 is considered an A3 oil.

ACEA A1/B1 Oil intended for use in gasoline and car + light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate viscosity of 2.6 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils may be unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.

ACEA A3/B3 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline and car + light van diesel engines and/or for extended drain intervals where specified by the engine manufacturer, and/or for year-round use of low viscosity oils, and/or for severe operating conditions as defined by the engine manufacturer.


ACEA A3 oils (good):

Amsoil 3000
5w30

Amsoil European Formula
5w40

BMW HP Synthetic:
5w-30,

Castrol Syntec:
0w-30
15w-50

Mobil 1:
0w-40

Motul 8100
5w40

Motul 6100
15w50
10w40

Royal Purple
5w40



ACEA A1 oils (okay, but not up to the task):

Castrol Syntec:
5w-30
10w-30

Mobil1:
0w-30
5w-30
10w-30

 

You should never break in an engine with any synthetic motor oil. Use conventional to break in the motor then switch to a FULL synthetic like AMSOIL ( The best oil money can buy ).

 

Mobil 1 5w30 with close to 30hrs of racing this season with it. We change it about every 5 hours (or one race weekend for us). We have a drop of about .3 quarts between changes and the oil is still golden when changed.

Now we have close to 9 quarts of oil in the car with the 3qt highpressure accusump and and oil cooler to help keep the temps down. So this may scew the result for a typical stock amount of five quarts.

If I really thought what I was using was a problem I would send it out to blackstone for analysis.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/about_blackstone.html


Bob do you have a pic of your diff cooler?

 

I didnt mean to say diff cooler, I meant diff catch tank. Sorry about that. Earlier today I was looking at various coolers and still had them implanted in the brain. Diff coolers not allowed in T2.

 

No worries, it's our next area of concern and was just getting ideas...

 

I run Mobil 1, 0W-40

And change it every third autocross. (about three months / 1k miles)

 

Well, I paid $26K for a racing engine from Sunbelt Performance and they broke the engine in on the engine dyno with Redline straight 30W and told me to only run Mobil 1 20W-50 or Redline 20W-50. This was a 3L NA 14 to 1 CR race engine running full Motec. Got 50 hours out of it before a scheduled refresh and the rod and main bearings looked brand new at the tear down.

 

I run Rotella synthetic 5w 40 and change it every 3000 miles.


Cheap from Wall-mart and I don't burn as much of it as I did with Mobil 1 while on track. I used to burn about a quart a weekend, now only a half quart.


No, the car does not smoke.