mhoward1

he same reason they put non-functioning scoops, large wings, and racing stripes on them. They give the appearance of performance.

If you look at the racing version of those same cars, almost all use vented solid blanks.

white_sg

Thanks for all the great info and links. I assume all brake lines arent created equal. Which is a decent set for heavy track use and are an easy install with the track brembos? Where to get titanium backing plates for track brembos as well? Thanks.

laze1

iTrader: (17)

www.girodisc.com

I have purchased, but not tried the titanium packing plates yet, so I am not sure how well they actually work. But in theory, they should work

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

The new rotors and pads are on!

Thanks to everyone for your input and help.


One more question though...

I noticed, during the install, that one of the boots on the caliper "shaft" was torn. I think it's supposed to keep stuff off of the shaft but it is useless now.

I just made sure I cleaned the heck out of it before I compressed it.

So, will it be ok?

laze1

iTrader: (17)

Basically yes, you are ok....as long as you DO NOT see any indication of brake fluid leaking. One sign of a leak is too look for is non-symmetrical dust/crude accumulation around the calipers or the inside of your wheels. The means that one area of one caliper on one wheel is much dirtier or the dust is hard to clean off than the other areas. Any fluid on the caliper will make dust stick to the surface. If you even THINK yo have a leak...fix it before driving it again...

If you track you car much, you will "cook" the front dust-boots. When "cooked" the material gets hard and cracks...Mine are almost completely gone...but NO Leakage!

However, remember that brakes are the only thing standing between you and the gaurd rail at the end of a long striaght so when in doubt...rebuild your brakes as needed PRO_ACTIVELY!

laze1

iTrader: (17)

Are you talking about the bolts that attach the caliper to the Hub? or the caliper pistons? My comments below are for the caliper pistons...

If the question is for the mounting bolts...they are not big deal, but replace the covers/boots at your next pad change/maintenance.

Remember: If there is one thing on a car that should work perfectly: it is the brake system (no shiate )

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I am talking about the caliper piston. It was my understanding that the boot was there to keep the piston free of stuff that might damage the inner seal when it gets compressed for new pads. (That's, why I cleaned it so well before compressing it.)

I noticed a smaller tear on one of my rear calipers when I changed my rear pads last summer. (I was careful to clean before compressing that one too.)

I will keep an eye on it.

Thanks for the info.

M1r4cL3

iTrader: (8)

I've been having problems with my rotors on HPDE days. By the end of the day (6 sessions x 20 mins ea) i've been burning hotspots in rotors front and rear. I have a non-brembo setup.

The last set of rotors I tried were Raybestos "Advanced Tech" rotors i purchased from Kragen. I burned Hot spots into the driver front and passenger rear. I started doing my homework in the Raybestos catalog and found out that Raybestos only makes "Advanced Tech" rotors for Brembo models. I took my burnt rotors back to Kragen and had them replace them free of charge for the misrepresentation on their website.

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductL...r=Disc%2FRotor

I'm gonna try to keep getting these replaced until Kragen fixes this error! Part #980115 is not an "Advanced Tech" rotor according to the Raybestos Online Parts Catalog.

AznSky

iTrader: (12)

so how's everybody's centric blanks holding up? I'm planning on buying a set to go with Carbotech pads I'm putting in.

Also anybody got a rockauto coupon code

laze1

iTrader: (17)

Still Love them, use them on my BMW E36 race car now too...

No valid discount codes in hand.

mw9

iTrader: (51)

In 2006 and up on non-brembo, did they make single and dual piston calipers? I just upgraded my 2003 to the dual piston setup and seems confusing trying to found the right rotors. I am on rock auto and all they list seem to be single and 4 piston calipers. I want to get 2 cheap sets, one for a backup set. Just not sure on part numbers.

ADMAN

iTrader: (9)

I would still recommend BBK if you plan on tracking a lot. And...

I do hope you washed them, per the instructions.

idrive_MD

iTrader: (8)

this was an interesting read...I'm looking down the same barrel, I've been considering going with racingbrake rotors to get my self ready for the season. I was just eyeing up the slotted rotor type, but the centric blanks have been teasing my sometimes "jewish" wallet. I guess both sides could argue merrits over the other.

Hell for the price, I could buy two sets of centric blanks and have one set slotted by a machinist at work. I figure try both sets and see what I like best on a track. I will say that I do like slotted rotors when it rains, its something I noticed on my old car and miss on my G35, hell even after a carwash I notice the difference.

mw9

iTrader: (51)

R1 concepts, been using them for 3 years now and no problems at all. For a 2006 front blanks $86 a pair and the rear for $65 a pair.

http://www.r1concepts.com/NISSAN/350...esultsPage.htm

idrive_MD

iTrader: (8)

I think their premium rotors are centric rotors as well. Still nice prices. I was seriously considering the racing brake setup, but I think I'm going to save myself some money and go with blanks or lower cost slotted rotors at half the cost. i will go with RB ET800 pads though.

Saving this bit of money will allow me to buy some other mods that will help me on the track, i.e. a power steering cooler.

betamotorsports

iTrader: (1)

I buy (or used to) factory rotors and then got them cryo treated. The cryo extended the rotor life by 120% and that's for a solid rotor that saw temps over 1,000F.

StopTech

As a note, Cryo Blanks are available for the Centric Rotors. Cryo is also available for the slotted rotors.

Slots or drills also give a little extra bite. The downside is slightly more wear, but not enough to be significant.

For the factory brembo equipped cars we have 2pc rotors which will save 2.5 lbs per corner. The rear 2pc rotor maintain factory parking brake functionality. Also with the lighter weight, you'll be able to put more power to the ground.

We also have the big brake kits, but that's another topic.

For pad selection, you guys might want to try the StopTech Performance pads. Higher temp range than competitors pads. Lower dust than the competing aggressive street performance pads. Best of all, low noise from included shims. The price is very competitive. It's ready for street use and will handle track use for all except for the most aggressive track monsters. It's going to be really difficult to find a better all around pad than this one.

idrive_MD

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the input stoptech, but I think I have made up my mind at least and i plan to just start with the basics and see where I need to go from there.

Worst case scenario I find I out I need more from my brakes in terms of rotors and I end up having to buy better rotors. The blanks i buy now can remain my street disc, switching back and forth is not a concern for me.

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

Do you make this/any aggressive pad for the 370 Sport REAR calipers / NISMO rear calipers?

AznSky

iTrader: (12)

woot!

Rotors ordered! They actually went up $5 in price (per rotor) since I was looking at them last month.

I hope I got the right ones
FR (std brakes) 12042077
RR (std brakes) 12042074