Where do you mount your racing harness?
#41
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Ok, I ran across this thread while researching HARNESS BARS. So what's the general consensus here? Not to mix-n-match equipment like MPD47 stated above?
I track my car quite often and don't race. That's just in case somebody shows me a rule book
I want to get it done right. I was looking at Harness bar that is installed at the factory seat belts position.
I track my car quite often and don't race. That's just in case somebody shows me a rule book
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#42
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Ok, I ran across this thread while researching HARNESS BARS. So what's the general consensus here? Not to mix-n-match equipment like MPD47 stated above?
I track my car quite often and don't race. That's just in case somebody shows me a rule book
I want to get it done right. I was looking at Harness bar that is installed at the factory seat belts position.
I track my car quite often and don't race. That's just in case somebody shows me a rule book
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My measurements indicated that using the seat belt mounting points put the lap belt too far back from the suggested position which reduces the longitudinal angle to be less than 45 degrees: http://www.gforce.com/pdf/Harness_Install_Info.pdf
I drilled a few holes and installed some backing plates - easy peezy.
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I found the following
Sparco Harness Bar -- $429
My measurements indicated that using the seat belt mounting points put the lap belt too far back from the suggested position which reduces the longitudinal angle to be less than 45 degrees: http://www.gforce.com/pdf/Harness_Install_Info.pdf
I drilled a few holes and installed some backing plates - easy peezy.
I drilled a few holes and installed some backing plates - easy peezy.
Thanks for the tip. I don't mind drilling holes if it doesn't meet the required specs.
#44
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Can you throw some suggestions?
I found the following
Sparco Harness Bar -- $429
Thanks for the tip. I don't mind drilling holes if it doesn't meet the required specs.
I found the following
Sparco Harness Bar -- $429
Thanks for the tip. I don't mind drilling holes if it doesn't meet the required specs.
http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/a...0z-p-7882.html
and they are on sale:
https://my350z.com/forum/body-interi...es-sale-2.html
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Thanks Marty. I looked at the thread in classifieds and vivid racing states that it is a WELD-IN 4point cage. I do not want to do any weld-ins. I am fine if I have to drill a few holes to adjust for the angle of the harness so that they can be installed right.
Some one I know has a few months old Sparco bar for 300. What do you guys think? Should I jump on it?
Also, I understand that harness should not be used with street seats, correct?
Some one I know has a few months old Sparco bar for 300. What do you guys think? Should I jump on it?
Also, I understand that harness should not be used with street seats, correct?
#47
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Sorry,
Missed the weld in
here are a few bolt-ins
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/perf...ion/Roll_Cages
http://festivegarage.com/roll-race-n...0z-p-1290.html
http://betamotorsports.com/products/...t1=44&scat2=30
http://www.carbonfiberhoods.net/poin...0z-p-1495.html
the Kirks are both SCCA and NASA legal.
Missed the weld in
here are a few bolt-ins
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/perf...ion/Roll_Cages
http://festivegarage.com/roll-race-n...0z-p-1290.html
http://betamotorsports.com/products/...t1=44&scat2=30
http://www.carbonfiberhoods.net/poin...0z-p-1495.html
the Kirks are both SCCA and NASA legal.
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I exchanged the below PM with Stack and felt it was very informative. I wanted to share it with other newbies who are looking at this topic ![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks for the PM Deepu... as you can tell, I'm more than willing to share my thoughts and experiences on the subject ![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
First of all, ultimately, it's up to you to decide what risk level you're willing to accept. My main goal is to make sure you're taking into account ALL the information you can before making that assessment.
So with that said...
The first assessment you have to make is this:
Do I accept the risks of being harnessed into my car without roll-over protection beyond the factory structural rigidity of the roof?
Roll-overs are extremely rare. Rarer still are roll overs involving high speeds. Even rarer still are high speed roll overs with the risk of impacting an obstacle. Of course, that doesn't mean they can't happen to you, and only you can determine if you have the wherewithal to keep yourself out of situations where these rare incidents can occur. Some things that increase the risk of these things:
If you've accepted these risks, then you have to look at the type of harness, and how the harness will be mounted in the car.
DOT approved 4-points
Race harnesses
True race harnesses are designed to be used as part of a full safety system and generally it's a bad idea to try and incorporate them into a stock interior. It can be done (I do this in my personal car), but it involves some significant modifications to the interior, mainly the seats and floor.
The harness bar itself
Using harnesses can make a big difference in your driving. It helps hold you in place so you can concentrate on driving, not staying in the seat (this is why most people first start thinking about them.) That in turn helps with fatigue, and can also help with safety and performance (cause the more you can concentrate on driving, the better.) So there are obviously some benefits.
Unfortunately, you can't just focus on those benefits. You also have to look at its other (and more important) design function: keeping you alive in the event of a crash. The biggest part of that is the strength of the structure the harnesses are attached to. Most harness bars are a compromise. They are usually offset to allow for more flexibility in seating position. If they aren't substantially braced, that offset is merely providing more leverage for the harnesses to rotate the bar, negating their effectiveness to hold you in place. In a roll bar application, a built-in harness bar is always made out of the same 1-3/4" tubing and usually welded into the main roll hoop. You're lucky if you can find a harness bar more than 1" in diameter. That very well may be fine, but the assessment you have to make then is: are you willing to be the one to test that out?
The second thing most people don't think about, is what happens in a rear-ward impact? If the stock seat back were to fail and recline backwards, where will it impact the harness bar? You'll find that most will impact directly on the headrest. It should be pretty obvious that that would NOT be a pleasant feeling if your head were snapping back onto that as well.
Lastly... in terms of driver and passenger safety... you also have to assess whether or not you're willing to compromise the factory active and passive safety systems (seatbelts and airbags.) Once you start adding or removing stuff, you render those systems less safe, and sometimes dangerous.
My current car came with a harness bar when I bought it, and I took it out almost immediately for the very reasons I list above. I now have a 4-point bolt in roll bar, 6-point harnesses, modified seats (to accept the harnesses properly) and the seat backs are braced.
I hope this helps you make your decision... feel free to post it elsewhere if it makes sense to you!
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Originally Posted by Stack
Originally Posted by mekatoka
Hi Stack,
I came across some of your posts regarding this topic and decided to directly ask you for some advice on this. I track my car quite a bit and have decided to get a harness bar.
I came across mixed responses in threads that seemed to indicate that using a harness bar is alone is not good and that a roll cage is needed. Do you agree?
Can I just get a harness bar and 4-point? If yes, what do you suggest for a 08 350Z Nismo?
Thanks
Deepu
I came across some of your posts regarding this topic and decided to directly ask you for some advice on this. I track my car quite a bit and have decided to get a harness bar.
I came across mixed responses in threads that seemed to indicate that using a harness bar is alone is not good and that a roll cage is needed. Do you agree?
Can I just get a harness bar and 4-point? If yes, what do you suggest for a 08 350Z Nismo?
Thanks
Deepu
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
First of all, ultimately, it's up to you to decide what risk level you're willing to accept. My main goal is to make sure you're taking into account ALL the information you can before making that assessment.
So with that said...
The first assessment you have to make is this:
Do I accept the risks of being harnessed into my car without roll-over protection beyond the factory structural rigidity of the roof?
Roll-overs are extremely rare. Rarer still are roll overs involving high speeds. Even rarer still are high speed roll overs with the risk of impacting an obstacle. Of course, that doesn't mean they can't happen to you, and only you can determine if you have the wherewithal to keep yourself out of situations where these rare incidents can occur. Some things that increase the risk of these things:
- Powerful and well-handling car (check!)
- Tracks with high speed sections with little or no "soft" barriers like tire bundles
- Tracks with sections where the turf outside of the track might be rutted or uneven (or might contain unprotected ditches, etc.)
- Use of R-compound tires
- Not having the experience to know when you about to get in over your head
If you've accepted these risks, then you have to look at the type of harness, and how the harness will be mounted in the car.
DOT approved 4-points
- Are there any made specifically for your car?
- Do they have an anti-submarining mechanism?
- Can the lower belts be mounted to fit properly around your hips?
- Will your seating position be upright enough to minimize the risk of submarining with or without a built-in mechanism?
Race harnesses
True race harnesses are designed to be used as part of a full safety system and generally it's a bad idea to try and incorporate them into a stock interior. It can be done (I do this in my personal car), but it involves some significant modifications to the interior, mainly the seats and floor.
The harness bar itself
Using harnesses can make a big difference in your driving. It helps hold you in place so you can concentrate on driving, not staying in the seat (this is why most people first start thinking about them.) That in turn helps with fatigue, and can also help with safety and performance (cause the more you can concentrate on driving, the better.) So there are obviously some benefits.
Unfortunately, you can't just focus on those benefits. You also have to look at its other (and more important) design function: keeping you alive in the event of a crash. The biggest part of that is the strength of the structure the harnesses are attached to. Most harness bars are a compromise. They are usually offset to allow for more flexibility in seating position. If they aren't substantially braced, that offset is merely providing more leverage for the harnesses to rotate the bar, negating their effectiveness to hold you in place. In a roll bar application, a built-in harness bar is always made out of the same 1-3/4" tubing and usually welded into the main roll hoop. You're lucky if you can find a harness bar more than 1" in diameter. That very well may be fine, but the assessment you have to make then is: are you willing to be the one to test that out?
The second thing most people don't think about, is what happens in a rear-ward impact? If the stock seat back were to fail and recline backwards, where will it impact the harness bar? You'll find that most will impact directly on the headrest. It should be pretty obvious that that would NOT be a pleasant feeling if your head were snapping back onto that as well.
Lastly... in terms of driver and passenger safety... you also have to assess whether or not you're willing to compromise the factory active and passive safety systems (seatbelts and airbags.) Once you start adding or removing stuff, you render those systems less safe, and sometimes dangerous.
My current car came with a harness bar when I bought it, and I took it out almost immediately for the very reasons I list above. I now have a 4-point bolt in roll bar, 6-point harnesses, modified seats (to accept the harnesses properly) and the seat backs are braced.
I hope this helps you make your decision... feel free to post it elsewhere if it makes sense to you!
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just an update from my first post, decided to go with an autopower roll bar, thought it was bolt in at first but after i got it found out it was weld in, now its welded in and havnt looked back, my only regret was not getting the one with the removeable crossbar really helps when u have to lug some big items around and i still use my Z as my DD, just remember if you get a roll bar to get the proper sfi padding to protect your head.
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I think this place will build you a roll-bar/harness-bar. They put a full cage into a T2 Z ( the one that cartwheeled through china beach at mid-ohio.. driver had a small bruise)
RJS Racing Equipment, Inc.
23506 N. John R. Road
Hazel Park, MI 48030
Phone: [248] 548-5727
I'm not to that point yet.. but I would start there if I was making the jump to harness restraints.
RJS Racing Equipment, Inc.
23506 N. John R. Road
Hazel Park, MI 48030
Phone: [248] 548-5727
I'm not to that point yet.. but I would start there if I was making the jump to harness restraints.
Last edited by thekinn; 09-01-2010 at 03:15 PM.
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I think this place will build you a roll-bar/harness-bar. They put a full cage into a T2 Z ( the one that cartwheeled through china beach at mid-ohio.. driver had a small bruise)
RJS Racing Equipment, Inc.
23506 N. John R. Road
Hazel Park, MI 48030
Phone: [248] 548-5727
I'm not to that point yet.. but I would start there if I was making the jump to harness restraints.
RJS Racing Equipment, Inc.
23506 N. John R. Road
Hazel Park, MI 48030
Phone: [248] 548-5727
I'm not to that point yet.. but I would start there if I was making the jump to harness restraints.
I am sure it's the same for me that I am not at a point where I am pushing so hard that I need the roll cage but I figure it's a possibility that it can happen anytime. I am planning on getting one just to be safe at the track and wanted to make it's done right as opposed to having it for a cool factor.
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Deepu, a couple of my co-workers got theirs done by a guy in Ohio. It was custom fit to their cars and cost around 800 (bolt in)?
I can get some info for you and if you do get yours done lemme know, maybe we can get a group deal
I can get some info for you and if you do get yours done lemme know, maybe we can get a group deal
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