Hey guys just lookin for some suggestions. I'm looking to spend $3500 in parts that will help my z become a more aggressive track car.

I own a 2005 350z with the VQ35DE Set up. Mods that I already have are....

1. Tokico D-spec shocks
2. RS*R Ti 2000 Springs
3. JIC CF Front Strut Tower Bar
4. GT Spec Front and Rear Tie Brace
5. K&N FIPK Version 2 intake
6. JIC Titanium Single Exhaust
7. Motordyne Plenum Spacer
8. Gutted Trunk
9. Falken Azenis Tires
10. 5 zigen fn01rc rims

 

How are your brakes holding up? That was the first mod I had to do, no question.

 

+1111111!!!!11!!

-motul brake fluid, track pads, s/s braided lines will help a lot.

-next, get front camber arms.

-racing seat plus harness - you will get better control of the car

 

I needed much more than brake fluid... I ended up getting a 4-wheel stoptech big brake kit (which includes stainless steel lines), and of course I used Motul RBF600. It may seem hard to spend a few thousand dollars on something as un-sexy as brakes, but it's not as hard when it causes you to consistently gain a second or more per lap on cars who can't brake as late as you.

 

Yeah I really want to start tracking my car. I want to learn more about how the car drives and to become a better driver and I don't know any other way to do this. And big brakes are sexy man!

 

Im sry i completely forgot i did upgrade the brakes with hawk pads and goodridge stainless steel lines and castrol brake fluid but i could see me getting a BBK pretty soon, and some more braces plus anti roll kit.

 

YEP! the z is one fat bish.
better brakes takes away the brake fade and will stop her faster

good job mthreat!

@zix07 make sure the castrol fluid u got there is tolerable to hightemps just like the motul rbf 600 (312 C / 593 F)

oh, & dial the front suspensions softer than the rear (or just harden the rear dampers). it will help reduce the understeer.

 

Spend that money on a professional driving school (Skip Barber, Russell, etc.) You will reduce your lap times far more with professional instruction then with any parts you're thinking about putting on your car. Plus, when you sell the Z you can take your driving skills with you to your next car.

 

^+1 And if those are not anywhere near you, more seat time in HPDE will work too.

 

Thanks guys keep em comin lol

 

Seat time is the most important thing...you can do all the mods you want but you will never realize their potential without more driving experience.

 

Any schools near Jacksonville, FL or tracks for that matter..lol

 

Check out the NASA program. Its a nationwide organization that will be larger than the dying SCCA within the next 10 years. Your regions would be the Southeast(they run in SC, GA, VA, and AL) and the Florida region. www.nasaproracing.com. Your closest tracks are in GA, such as Road Atlanta and Roebling Road.

 

more braces will be a waste of money imo. like everyone is saying, do a school and spend whatever money you're planning on blowing on mods (not involving brakes) on more track days/seat time. a 3 day at Skip Barber will do more than any car, let alone mod, could ever do. If youve got any natural ability to start with and stick with the curriculum they lay out at the school youre bound to come out a pretty good/safe/fast driver. Theyre expensive as all get out but I assure you if you dont put any pressure on yourself and absorb everything thats thrown out there you'll never have more fun in three days. and the lap-time/$ ratio after you graduate and put the knowledge/confidence to use is better than any mod as well.

 

Anyone trying to answer this without asking you how many times you've tracked your car already is merely guessing (besides suggestions for instruction/school).

For example, a beginner (0-6 events or so) needs nothing when driving a well-maintained Z-car. Go from there.

You don't need chassis braces, camber arms, racing seats, or any other such nonsense others have posted. You need to have a well-maintained car, freshly-bled and new brake fluid, good wheel bearings, and enough brake pad to last the day. Unless you have, and I'm guesstimating here, 20 track days until your belt, you don't need any of those items. Once you are ready, get a set of dedicated track wheels, tires, and brake pads.

 

The biggest-impacting, most cost effective mod I did to my car was harnesses, hands down. I picked up 1-2 seconds a run autocrossing. Because they hold you into the seat, the bolsters can do their job without you having to brace yourself on the steering wheel while cornering and braking. No bracing, more relaxed, better concentration, better control. Once you race with a set, you'll wonder how you ever did without them. Other than that, like everyone else said, seat time and instruction is the way to go. You can put as many parts on your car as you like, but unless YOU can push the car to its limits, they'll never do any good. You are the most easily upgradeable part in your car.

 

been at the track several times myself. only when u go to the track will you know the weaknesses and strengths of the Z. so it helps a lot taking the Z to the track before deciding which mods to purchase under your priority list. i would list down mine:

1 brake kit
2 wider tyres / semi slick etc.
3 camber arms
4 harness

IMO what u have right there is good enough. i've already taken out some nasty '08 R32's with my stock '05 Z + only upgraded brakes.

I agree with people's suggestions that seat time / hiring race instructors is still the best investment.

 

+infinity

I also agree to a point on the harnesses ... with a big HOWEVER. When you start talking about harnesses on track (even for DE purposes) you bring up the issue of harness mounting and roll-over protection. Please do a search and wade through all the various debates on the subject before buying harnesses.

 

Agreed.. Just like anything else on your car, you need to have it correctly and safely installed. In the case of harnesses, this includes a good harness bar or roll cage to mount them to.

 

I would say a roll bar would be better since the car is probably driven on the street as well. If you do a roll bar, make sure you have it welded in, not bolted.