*mods please dont delete, guys i started a f/s thread, do not turn this thread into one. this is strictly for ideas on the actual car, and ways to drop unnecessary weight!*

f'/s thread
https://my350z.com/forum/interior/44...stics-etc.html

my main concern is dropping weight out of this car, weve taken out every plastic panel, carpet, seatbelts, ac, etc. any other areas that we can reduce weight that are cost efficient? i would be all for carbon panels etc, but at the moemtn the budget wont allow this, so its down to removing the excess unneeded weight at the moment. also, what wires can we get rid of? theres tons of wires, and wondering what we can get rid of as far as the interior harness goes..

heres a few pics for you guys and the brief history on this car

so i caved in and bought another 350z, convinced 2 of my best friends joel and eric to get in on a group buy on an 04 350z touring. the initial intention of this car was to strip it completely and track the ever living hell out of it. we picked it up on monday (7-19-09) and completely stripped it the next day. the car had a nismo cold air on it already, so thats a plus lol. plans include low weight, boltons (sponsors!!), and maybe down the road some form of f/i. we are currently seeking any type of sponsorship at the moment, and will have our first track event at road america on october 3rd. please feel free to give us any sort of comments, criticism, words of wisdom, direction, etc. also if your selling bolt on parts, lmk please!

me n eric, 66% of our driving team lol


gutted, are these black metal pieces for support? not sure but didnt want to remove them as of yet


car as we got it, on fail 300zx rims..offset ftl


all the interior panels and trim we removed


me doing you know...stuff.


the motor as of now..almost too stock lol

 

well if its a track car loose the windshield wipers and there motors, the wipers water reservoir, leather seats will make you slide around... ditch those for one seat, knock the sound material of the floor with dry ice... and add a 4.08 final drive

 

exterior
stock hatch: 77 lbs
hatch counterweight: 1.5 lbs
rear wiper and motor: 9 lbs
stock hood: 24 lbs
stock fenders: around 7.7 lbs each
headlight: 15 lbs each

interior
rear mat: 6 lbs
sound dampening "pads" in that space behind seats: about 5 lbs
shift ****: about 206 grams
leather heated seats: 50 lbs each
fabric seats: 37 lbs each
spare, jack, and tools: 40 lbs
headunit and speakers: about 7 lbs together
steel plate + bolts for subwoofer: about 5 lbs

suspension
stock sways: front 10.5 lbs and rear 4 lbs
stock spring and shock assembly: 10 lbs each
stock battery: 36 lbs

Standard Brakes
296x24mm Front Disc = 16.2 lbs
Single Piston Front Caliper = 12.2 lbs
292x15mm Rear Disc = 11.9 lbs
Single Piston Rear Caliper = 6.0 lbs

Track Model Brembos
324x30mm Front Disc = 20.0 lbs
4-Piston Front Caliper = 9.5 lbs
322x22mm Rear Disc = 17.6 lbs
2-Piston Rear Caliper = 4.3 lbs

fluids
full tank of gas: 6.5 lbs x 17 gallons = 110.5 lbs
full tank of washer fluid: 8 lbs

exhaust
plastic intake manifold: 4 lbs
stock headers: 15.4 lbs
rear muffler: 34 lbs
mid pipe: 12 lbs
y-pipe: 16 lbs
catalytic converters: 23 lbs each

wheels

(depending upon air pressure, almost any nissan tire + rim combo will be around 40-60 lbs each)
17" base rims F: 17x7.5 = 23.26 lbs and R: 17x8.0 = 24.140 lbs
18" track rims F: 18x8.0 = 18.1 lbs and R: 18x8.5 = 18.62 lbs
18" perf/touring rims F: 18x8.0 = 27 lbs and R: = 18x8.0 = 27 lbs
18" LMGT rims F: 18x8.5 = 18.3 lbs and R: 18x9.5 = 18.8 lbs
19" LMGT rims F: 19 x 8.5 = and R: 19x9.5 = around 22 lbs
all 20 lug nuts: 2.6 lbs

drivetrain
stock clutch weight: 22.19 lbs
stock flywheel weight: 23 lbs
crank pulley: 6 lbs

 

stealthz, exactly as i had planned! 4.08 were one of the top mods on the list

03 brembo, thanks for that info, didnt know stock hatch was that heave, wtf!!

and yes everything is for sale, trying not to **** off the mods by turning this into a f/s thread so please pm me for anything you need!

need more info on reducing hidden weight (theres 1 15lb weight on the tranny i found out on my other z lol)

 

braille battery is ~11-15 pounds depending on which on you get. relocate it to behind the passenger seat or to the trunk.

you'll want to distribute weight more toward the rear.

you can remove the plastic shroud around the windsheild area (under the wiper blades)

maybe relocate the windshield wiper resivoir to the trunk or delete it, and the hoses that run up the passengerside, under the front fender that go to the wiper blades.

did you remove the rear wiper blade with motor assembly?

if you're trying to stay cheap,keep the rear hatch, but swap out the glass to lexan. the stock hatch is good to keep stock if you were to put a wing on it, so it won't dimple due to the down force..

if this is track only, remove the driver side gas tank saddle and convert to single side (passenger side only). you'll save ~8 gallons of fuel weight and you should have plenty of gas for your track sessions.


ditch the airbags, and use my 2ohm resistor trick to fool the SRS system into thinking they're still there.

if you haven't already removed the sound deading material on the frame, you can do so using dry ice to freeze and crack it off.

and definately swap out those leather seats for used Sparcos.. you'll save a alot of weight there..

side mirrors with motors are heavy. you can be ghetto and rip the motors out, or just replace with light weight manual ones from:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/

they are around $80 each and attach to the door skin or a custom plate you can make for the oem area...

 

are you gonna be racing in any series or just doing lapping days?

 

yes the motherload of info! ok cheston few questions;

removing the windshiled plastics wont affect aerodynamics at all will they? they sit pretty low, so i cant see thaty being a problem

how much is lexan/where can i get ahold of it?

how do i remove the driver side gas tank?? i know it has a syphon, and goes over the driveshaft

and more info on the 2ohm resistor to trick airbags please! keep it coming! loving these ideas!

 

Removing the drivers and passenger door glass and electric window motor.

 

wouldnt that be counter-productive in a sense? i read somewhere that each open window generates about 60lbs of resistance. thew window motors i can see, but the actual glass...?

 

maybe he meant to change it to lexan also

 

Keep in mind if you plan to be competitive in a class to closely examine the rules....many require things you seem to be wanting to remove. If this is just a toy........rip away.

 

Lol this thread makes me want to buy another 350z and do the same thing. Good luck with the build!

Does that 77lbs for the stock hatch include the glass?

 

It's a dedicated track car he is building. When you're on the track it's mandatory the windows are down so that in case of an incident safety crews, corner workers and EMT don't have to break the windows out to get to you.

If he races it in NASA or SCCA time trials or a class. Windows are down too. In-fact most race cars the only thing in the door is the door shell where the Nascar style door bars are. The door is completely gutted. Weight savings is up-to 50 pounds per door.

All the door lock assembly can be removed as well.

Lexan windshield is lighter than glass.

Lexan for the door windows sure it's lighter as well but I think it would be too much of a hassle to plumb the windows with vents to keep the airflow through the car. Unless, your running a cool suit. But, that suit is not cheap.

 

ok, there is a FS sale thread outside of here. I am removing all references to items for sale in this thread. If you post something here, it will be deleted.

 

You can follow our lead. If you have any questions...lemme know.
https://my350z.com/forum/2009-370z/4...car-build.html

 

i can do this for ya. i have done it before. ill help you out when i come pick up those interior pieces from you.

 

I was speaking with NNA engineers about removing this, it is simply a hatch hole support to keep the upper body from flexing. I have been thinking about X bracing mine with Aluiminum rods and Heim joints and ripping that steel out.

 

Think you will get it under 2400?

 

not this year I finally got it in the 2800s, but that is still with the stock sheet metal and glass. It gets expensive from this point forward.

 

2800 without a cage?